Until recently, the only mushrooms I ever ate were white buttons and portobellos; all those other fancy varieties, with their weird shapes and funky Asian-sounding names, were just too scary. Yet after a visit to Phillips Mushroom Farms I was determined to try several different types of specialty mushrooms. And like any good cook, I made my husband and children try them, too.

Everyone loved the king oysters, long trumpet-shaped mushrooms that we simply brushed with olive oil and cooked on a hot grill. Beech mushrooms, which I added to a risotto dish, were another big hit; the same color as the rice, with a taste so mild and nutty that my kids didn't even realize they were eating them. The biggest surprise was the aptly named pom pom, which I sliced and sauteed in butter. All of us agreed that something that looked so strange (the spheres are furry!) would taste weird. It was, however, delicious, reminiscent of scallops. Even my 12-year-old daughter gobbled them up.

Alas, the maitake mushroom was a completely different story. Maybe they were just mushroomed out after a week solid of eating them, but husband and kids found its chocolate-brown petals -- sauteed in a little olive oil, garlic and chopped shallot -- a bit too woodsy tasting.

Nearly every grocery store carries white agaricus mushrooms for $4 a pound or less; you can find Creekside's "Moonlight" mushrooms, which are sold both as a national brand and under private labels, at Giant Eagle in the blue styrofoam containers bearing the "Farmers Market" logo.

Specialty mushrooms also can be found in many local groceries, but you may want to shop around. At Giant Eagle, for example, oysters run $5.99 per pound and shiitakes $7.99 per pound, while at Whole Foods in East Liberty they're $7.99 and $14.99 per pound, respectively. Lotus Food Market in the Strip District also carries several varieties; shiitakes cost $4.99 per pound. The East End Food Co-Op in Point Breeze sells organic shiitakes for $12.99 per pound.

If you'd rather try something a bit more unusual, Whole Foods sells maitake, pom pom, beech and royal trumpet mushrooms ($4.99 for 4 ounces). But you'll have to give the store a day's notice, says produce buyer Darrell Bolin; they simply don't sell enough of them on a daily basis to keep them on hand -- and mushrooms taste best when they're fresh.

-- Gretchen McKay

---

PG TESTED

Serve this delicately flavored soup with fresh, crusty bread.

• 5 cups chicken broth
• 1 1/2 cups chopped and trimmed watercress or spinach
• 3.5-ounce package fresh enoki mushrooms

Wash and cut off the lower portion of enoki mushrooms and discard. Simmer together chicken broth, watercress and enoki mushrooms for 4 to 6 minutes, until watercress is dark green. Serve at once.

Serves 4.

-- Phillips Gourmet Mushrooms

---

PG TESTED

• 8 slices ready-to-serve or homemade polenta
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1 pound fresh mushroom mixture including small shiitakes, criminis, oysters and whites (about 6 cups)
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary or 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

Preheat grill or broiler until hot. Lightly brush olive oil on both sides of polenta slices. Place on a grill rack or broiler pan; grill or broil until golden, about 4 minutes, turning once. Remove and keep warm.

Trim mushroom stems and slice mushrooms, if necessary. In a medium skillet, over medium heat, heat remaining oil. Add mushrooms; cook and stir until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add wine and rosemary; simmer until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Stir in salt and pepper. Place 2 polenta slices on each plate and top with mushroom mixture, dividing evenly. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 portions.

-- Mushroom Council

---

PG TESTED

• 4 chicken cutlets, about 4 ounces each
• Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 4 teaspoons olive oil, divided
• 12 ounces crimini mushrooms, quartered
• 2 teaspoons minced fresh garlic
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 cup low-sodium chicken broth
• 1 lemon
• 2 tablespoons capers, with juice

Season chicken with salt and pepper on both sides and heat a large saute pan over medium heat. Add 2 teaspoons olive oil and warm briefly, then add chicken and cook until nicely browned, about 2 minutes per side. Remove to a plate and cover.

In the same pan, warm the remaining olive oil over medium-high heat. Add a single layer of mushrooms and cook, without stirring, for about 5 minutes or until mushrooms become red-brown on one side.

Flip mushrooms, add garlic and cook another 2 minutes. Add wine and scrape up any browned bits in the pan. Bring to a boil and add broth, then return to heat and cook until it is bubbling nicely.

Cut 4 very thin slices of lemon and add to pan along with the juice from half of the lemon. Add capers and continue cooking sauce till it becomes a glaze, about 2 more minutes.

Add the chicken to the sauce and heat through, then serve.

Makes 4 servings.

-- Mushroom Council

---

PG TESTED

This creamy soup won first place in the 2006 Mushroom Festival amateur cook-off. It was also a big hit in the PG features department.

-- Gretchen McKay

• 4 tablespoons olive oil
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 1 cup shallots, minced
• 6 ounces sliced portobello mushrooms
• 6 ounces sliced crimini mushrooms
• 8 ounces sliced shiitake mushrooms
• 4 ounces oyster mushrooms
• 20 ounces sliced button mushrooms
• 8 ounces dried porcini mushrooms
• 6 cups chicken broth
• 8 teaspoons flour
• 1 1/2 cups sherry, divided
• 1 teaspoon thyme
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon white pepper
• 1 cup heavy cream

In a large stockpot, add olive oil and butter. Heat until fully melted on high, about 1 minute. Add shallots and saute on high, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and add mushrooms. Cook about 20 minutes.

Add 4 cups chicken stock and cook for 10 minutes. Remove 3 cups of mushrooms and place in blender with 2 cups chicken broth. Puree about 2 minutes, or until you reach the preferred consistency. (For smoother soup with no chunks, puree all mushrooms.) Add mushroom puree back to stock pot with original mushrooms.

In a separate bowl, whisk flour into 1 cup of sherry. Slowly stir into soup. Add thyme, salt, white pepper and heavy cream. Cook for 5 minutes.

Add remaining 1/2 cup of sherry. Cook for 10 minutes and serve.

Makes about 12 cups.

-- Shannon Bellafiore, West Chester

---

PG TESTED

These are a low-cal alternative to beef or chicken satay. A spicy peanut dipping sauce balances the earthy mushroom flavor.

• 1 cup chunky peanut butter
• 1 cup coconut milk
• 1/4 cup lemon juice
• 1/8 cup honey
• 4 cloves garlic, chopped
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper, or more to taste
• 12 portobello mushrooms (about 2 1/2 ounces each)
• Vegetable oil
• Wooden skewers
• Chopped cilantro and red pepper flakes for garnish

For peanut sauce

Thoroughly combine peanut butter, coconut milk, lemon juice, honey, garlic, cumin and red pepper. Let stand at least 1 hour to marry flavors.

For satay

Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Brush each portobello cap with oil; season well with salt and pepper. Arrange on a sheet pan. Bake until mushrooms are tender, about 8 minutes.

Assemble satays

Cut 1 portobello cap into 3/8-inch slices; thread slices onto 2 skewers. Repeat with remaining caps. Grill 2 skewers on a hot grill, turning a couple of times, until tender and lightly browned, about 2 minutes per side. Sprinkle with cilantro. Serve with 1/4 cup peanut sauce on the side. Garnish with crushed red pepper flakes, if desired.

Makes 12 satays.

-- Mushroom Council