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For best results, use an enameled cast iron Dutch oven to ensure even cooking and browning. When done, the meat will be brown, glistening and falling-off-the-bone tender. Serve with polenta or garlic mashed potatoes. You can make this a day in advance. Refrigerate the shanks and vegetables in a separate container from the sauce so that the fat can be lifted easily from the sauce.

-- Marlene Parrish

• 4 goat shanks, about 3/4 pound each
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 2 large carrots, chopped (or 12 baby cut carrots)
• 2 ribs celery, chopped
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 4 to 6 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1/2 cup dry red wine
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 cup (8-ounce can) tomato sauce
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Greek
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Trim the shanks of excess fat, if necessary. Place olive oil in a heavy Dutch oven on medium-high heat. Working in two batches, if necessary, brown the lamb shanks on all sides. Salt and pepper generously. Using tongs, remove them to a plate.

In the same pan over medium heat, saute the carrots, celery and onion until soft, but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook 2 minutes longer. Place the lamb shanks on the bed of vegetables in the pan.

In a glass measure, stir together the wine and water and pour over and around the meat. Pour tomato sauce over and around the meat. Sprinkle with oregano and thyme. Heat until the liquid comes to a simmer.

Cover with a tight lid or metal foil and braise about 2 hours or until the meat is tender and almost falling off the bone.

Using tongs, remove the shanks to a serving dish, cover with foil and keep warm. Remove the vegetables with a slotted spoon and arrange them around the meat. Pour the remaining liquid into measuring cup; remove excess fat from the sauce and discard. There should be about 1 cup of sauce. Correct seasoning and serve over the lamb or in a sauce boat.

Makes 4 servings.

-- Marlene Parrish

Leave it to Mario Batali to lead the way to a new taste sensation. His leg of goat might be a common dish on Italian tables, but it will be a new experience for most Americans. The meat will be rosy and lean with a flavor somewhere between beef and pork, but not as intense as lamb. Because the leg likes to sit near the heat but not over it, or it would burn, Chef Batali recommends you build a charcoal or wood fire under half of the grill rack and then just move the leg around frequently until it is cooked. The extra work will be well worth it.

For the meat

• 4 cloves garlic
• 1 cup fresh mint leaves
• 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 5-pound bone-in leg of goat, rinsed and patted dry
• Coarse sea salt

For the Lemon Salad

• 4 lemons, peeled and sliced very thin, seeds removed
• 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoon salt
• 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 bunches arugula, washed and spun dry, chiffonade

• 1 cup blanched almonds
• 1/2 cup olive paste
• 1 tablespoon hot red pepper flakes
• 1/4 cup fresh orange juice
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

In a blender, combine the garlic, mint leaves, pepper and olive oil and blend until a smooth paste is formed. Rub the paste all over the leg of goat and season with coarse salt. Place in a large baking dish, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight.

Preheat a grill, building the fire in one side of the grill.

Place the goat on the grill, away from the direct heat, and cook, turning and moving it frequently, until the meat is pink at the bone and the internal temperature at the thickest part of the leg is 135 degrees, about 45 to 55 minutes.

Meanwhile, to prepare the lemon salad, mix together the lemons, olive oil, and salt and pepper in a large bowl. Set aside at room temperature.

To prepare the pesto, combine the almonds, olive paste, red pepper flakes, orange juice and olive oil in a blender and blend until smooth and thick. Set aside.

When the goat is cooked, transfer to a cutting board and allow to rest for 10 minutes. Toss the arugula with the lemon salad and arrange on a platter. Carve the goat into 14-inch thick slices and arrange on the salad. Drizzle with the almond pesto, and serve.

Makes about 6 servings.

-- "Molto Italiano: 327 Simple Italian Recipes to Cook at Home" by Mario Batali (Ecco, 2005, $34.95)