We don't grow corn in our garden. We probably should but it takes up too much space and draws too many other corn-lovers, like raccoons. They get enough to eat here between the cat food, sour cherries and apples.

We rely instead on friends who grow corn, or local farmers. Nothing is better in the summer than a dinner of fresh sweet corn and ripe tomatoes. We've had some good corn this year, though I must take issue with farm markets selling it way past its prime, which is the day after it's been picked.

And the tomatoes -- well, we're still waiting for them. I have spent many mornings in the garden simply staring at huge plants with big green tomatoes, wishing them ripe. I've heard the same stories of woe from plenty of other gardeners.

These blue August days have been lovely, but not summery. The other night it was cool enough to want something hot and soothing for dinner. We'd bought a dozen ears of not-great corn from a farmer the day before. I'd cooked six, and there were six left. Sounded like corn soup to me.

I sat on the low porch bench and husked the corn, dogs gathered around, poking me with their noses. Our dear departed Norwegian elkhound, Nora, loved corn and ate an ear of corn as a person does. She'd lay it on the ground, turning it gracefully with her paw, nibbling only on the kernels.

In the kitchen, I sliced the corn kernels off the ears. I scraped my knife across the cobs to release the "milk" from the corn and added that to the pile of kernels. If I'd had time or thought of it, I would have made a corn broth by simmering the cobs in water. Instead I used a box of chicken broth. Vegetable broth would be fine, making this a vegetarian soup.

My friend Marie was visiting from New York and brought me some big-city treats. Lovely hand-made crackers and crisp, sugary, flat olive oil tortas from Spain. The last gift she pulled out of her bag was a little box of Knorr chipotle seasoning cubes she'd found at her supermarket.

I'd forgotten about those cubes when I simmered the corn soup for our dinner. I'd spiced it with green chiles, cumin and cayenne pepper. It was good but on the timid side. As we ate, I realized I should have added a chipotle cube to the soup. When we reheated it for lunch the next day, I made that addition. Much improved. Thanks, Marie.

PG TESTED

You could add mild fresh green chiles instead of canned, cooking them with the onion. Feel free to use leftover cooked corn or, after corn season, frozen corn. Then you should cook the kernels in the oil for only a couple of minutes (instead of the full 8) before adding the broth and tomatoes.

• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1 large onion, coarsely chopped (I used a sweet onion from the garden)
• 1 large garlic clove, minced
• 11/2 teaspoons ground cumin
• Kernels from 6 medium ears fresh corn, about 5 cups
• 3 tablespoons drained, canned, diced, mild green chiles
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
• 1 can (141/2 ounces) diced tomatoes with juice
• 1 chipotle bouillon cube (or ground chipotle chile, to taste)

Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add cumin; cook and stir 30 seconds.

Add corn, green chiles, salt and black pepper. Cook, stirring often, until corn is tender and color deepens, about 8 minutes.

Add broth, tomatoes and chipotle cube or ground chipotle (start with 1/8 teaspoon). Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered, breaking up tomatoes with a spoon, for 10 minutes, until flavors are blended and soup slightly thickened.

Makes about 7 cups, 4 to 6 servings.

-- Miriam Rubin