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Munch goes to Typhoon
Thursday, August 21, 2008

The country is drowning in inflation, gas prices are truly unpleasant, and that new gymnastics scoring system has Munch really rattled.

But every now and then, into every bleak existence, a little light must shine.

And so it was when Munch was walking by Typhoon in Shadyside and noticed its lunch menu hanging in the window.

Munch had been to Typhoon for dinner once -- on Mother of Munch's dime -- and found the place simply lovely.

But, well, Munch's salary isn't exactly keeping pace with the aforementioned inflation, and fancy food just isn't in Munch's budget these days. If you've never heard the term "starving journalist," well, folks, you heard it here first.

So imagine Munch's surprise to see that the lunch menu was, gasp, pretty darn affordable. Cheap, even.

With just a few exceptions, nearly all lunch dishes are under $10. It's almost as if Munch was walking into the place with a half-off coupon.

Inside, the restaurant is sleek and modern, but Munch and Dear One of Munch decided to sit outdoors, where Typhoon has used picturesque plants and planters to separate its tables from the sidewalk traffic.

Munch was then informed that, thanks to some bizarre liquor laws, Typhoon can't currently serve alcohol to its outdoor patrons. What will those zany bureaucrats dream up next?

Munch and DOOM drowned their sorrows in Thai ice teas ($3), and what splendid Thai ice teas they were: earthy, spicy and sweet, with a thick texture that Munch just loved to roll around the tongue.

While Typhoon's menu is predominantly Thai (duh), there are also nods toward fusion cuisine, such as the crispy fried squid and the ceviche "thai style."

Though DOOM and Munch hadn't intended to order two fried appetizers, the sweet potato triangles ($5) and crispy squid ($9) were light enough that Munch didn't feel all greased up afterward.

The triangles, like a crispy cross between a wonton and a samosa, were packed with warm, jammy sweet potatoes and cooled off with a cucumber relish. The crispy squid was similar to calamari, with only the most minimal breading and smooth avocado and Sriracha sauces.

Munch then dug into a portion of kao soi (yellow curry noodles, $9.95) that was delicate, yet enormous. The rich, sweet sauce contrasted beautifully with sharp, raw shallots and mixed through the dish, and Munch simply loved how the crispy noodles added a crunch to the soft egg noodle base.

But even more, Munch simply loved to reach across the table and eat DOOM's dish, street noodle #1 (rice noodles and fried chicken, $9.50). The noodles appeared fresh, light and nearly naked, but were somehow infused with incredibly complex flavor. And the fried chicken was moist, tender, crunchy -- in short, everything fried chicken should be.

Even at less than $10, both portions were large enough to provide leftovers for at least one meal, if not two. Why, Munch was practically saving money. All of a sudden, this recession isn't looking so bad after all.

First published on August 21, 2008 at 12:00 am