
DENVER -- When the Democratic National Convention rolls into town at the end of this month, it will be the latest event in a city that has been a meeting place for a fascinating mix of people for centuries.
Once the last stop for miners, prospectors and traders on their way to mountain streams, and the modern trading post for skiers, snowboarders and hikers on the way to the Rockies, Denver has always had an interesting mix of temporary inhabitants. But these days there are more than enough attractions here to keep one from moving on at all. And people are staying. U.S. Census estimates show that Denver's population grew by almost 22,000 in 2007 to 588,349, making it the nation's 26th-largest city.
If you are one of the estimated 42,000 politicians, delegates and supporters filing into the state capital's 94 hotels to attend the DNC, you will visit a city with a tremendous variety of entertainment.
Denver had a theater before building a hospital or school, and now it has enough cultural institutions to warrant hosting the mammoth National Performing Arts Convention earlier this summer. The city also boasts many art and history museums, culinary delights and sporting endeavors -- both recreational and spectator.
If you have just a few hours or so to sneak out amid the parade of speakers at the Pepsi Center and Invesco Field at Mile High, the DNC's two main sites, and the parties, here are a few fun suggestions:
16th Street Mall: This is the commercial, entertainment and culinary spine of the city. You can find everything from movie theaters to pharmacies, bars to boutiques along this strip, which is closed to public automobiles. Sleek hybrid buses travel up and down the street offering free rides, a boon if you are laden with items or torpid from a big meal.
Denver Art Museum: The most striking building downtown, it combines a modernist block-like structure built in 1971 and a new wing with sharp angles designed to mimic the peaks of the Rockies.
This museum is manageable in a day. There is a strong permanent collection of contemporary art of more than 4,500 works, including photography and multimedia. The archive of Bauhaus artist Herbert Bayer, who spent nearly three decades in Colorado, is housed here.
But the strength of the museum is folk art. Nearly every floor has a dedicated space to indigenous arts, such as African, Asian, pre-Columbian, Spanish and Native American. The latter is robust, as might be expected, given the location. The new wing, which opened in 2006, is remarkable to view from the outside and easy to navigate from within. But its best attribute is its inclusiveness. While many new wings in museums feature a smaller slice of the art world -- usually the newest of the new -- this one has a mix. An exhibition on abstract expressionist painter Clyfford Still sits across the hall from one on Western American art, including a focus on the iconic work of Charles M. Russell.
Denver Performing Arts Complex: The country's second-largest such complex, its theaters and halls are home to no fewer than 11 groups, including: Opera Colorado, Colorado Ballet, Denver Center Attractions' Broadway Series and the Colorado Symphony Orchestra. The latter, which arose in 1989 from the ashes of defunct Denver Symphony and was nurtured by conducting dynamo Marin Alsop, is a fine-tuned ensemble that plays much American and contemporary repertoire, as well as the classics. The CSO performs in the Boettcher Concert Hall, which will be extensively renovated. Opera Colorado performs in the acoustically warm Ellie Caulkins Opera House, which opened in 2005. A little farther out is the famous Red Rocks Amphitheatre, home to rock, pop and more.
Byers-Evans House Mu- seum: This quaint Victorian house built in 1883 might seem out of place among the skyscrapers and political buildings near it, but much of modern Denver might not exist were it not for its former inhabitants. Its first owner, William Byers, founded the Rocky Mountain News. The philanthropic efforts of the Evans family (which bought the house in 1889) were crucial to the cultural development of Denver, including the founding of the Denver Art Museum.
Need more? Try the popular Denver Zoo, the Denver Botanic Gardens or the Denver Museum of Nature and Science (one of the largest in the country). There's also the Molly Brown Museum (yes, the unsinkable one), a U.S. mint producing 10 billion coins a year, and a downtown amusement park, Elitch Gardens Theme Park.
And there's sports.
Being so tantalizingly close to the Rockies can drive outdoorsy people crazy if they don't have the day to spend hiking, so why not burn off the energy with a quick bike ride? Denver has an extensive biking trail system -- the tourism board measures it at 850 miles of paved and off-road trails in the city and surrounding counties. You can rent bikes at such locations as Confluence Kayaks (1615 Platte St.) and Cherry Creek Bike Rack (171 Detroit St. in Cherry Creek North).
For the sit-down-and-watch variety, the Colorado Rockies again come into play -- the Major League Baseball team, that is. Last year, the team made the playoffs, although it is struggling this year. But anyone who has gone to hitter-friendly Coors Field knows it is rarely a boring game. Depending on the season, there's also the Denver Broncos (National Football League), Colorado Avalanche (National Hockey League), Denver Nuggets (National Basketball Association), Colorado Crush (Arena Football League), the Colorado Rapids (Major League Soccer) and more.
Like any big metropolis, Denver has its mix of high-brow and low-cost eateries:
Rialto Cafe (934 16th St.) -- From breakfast burritos to nighttime cocktails, this stylish stop on the 16th Street Mall serves American foods. The meaty main courses have gotten high ratings locally, but even getting a drink or local microbrew and some of Rialto's appetizers are worth it in this elegant space.
Croc's Mexican Grill (1630 Market St.) -- Excellent food and budget bliss mark this little bar/restaurant. Well, actually, the gigantic plastic crocodile that hangs above the bar really marks the spot. And it reveals that Croc's is part fun-time food (huge margarita list, with some original ones) and part healthy meals. The chile rellenos are as big as burritos and lightly breaded, the side dishes delectably fresh.
Ship Tavern (Broadway Avenue and Tremont Place) -- In the historic and elegant Brown Palace Hotel, this traditional steak-and-seafood restaurant is heavy on hearty food and is complete with a crow's nest.
Pint's Pub (221 W. 13th Ave.) -- One of the oddest sights in Denver is a red British telephone booth outside this London-style pub near the museum and political district. Inside you find decor any English pub would be proud of, fish and chips, and a splendid selection of artisan brews. Not to be missed is Dark Star Ale, served at room temperature, just as it should be. Who says Denverites drink only Coors Light?
LoDo District -- The Lower Downtown Historic District is home to many bars and restaurants, including Wynkoop Brewing Co. (1634 18th St.); 9th Door (1808 Blake St.); Alto Restaurant (1320 15th St.); Common Grounds (1601 17th St.); Fado Irish Pub (1735 19th St.); LoDo's Bar & Grill (1946 Market St.); Rio Grande (1525 Blake St.); Sports Column (1930 Blake St.); and The Tavern Downtown (1949 Market St.).
Perhaps the most important dining tip for anyone visiting Denver: Drink water. The higher altitude can dehydrate you, and you can stave off migraines by constantly sipping water.