Seek truth. Ford the rivers. Scale the mountain. Query the Wise One. Whisper into his gnarly ear, and beseech him to reveal the secret of gastronomic Nirvana.

"My child," he would intone, "Lo." (He begins every sentence with Lo.) "You shall find ultimate bliss in the outstretched wings of fire-kissed poultry."

What 'da?

Does he mean chicken wings?

Yes. Truth sought is truth got. Chicken wings rule.

According to the National Chicken Council, in 2006, 11 billion chicken wings were eaten in the United States. Most people have only hot-lips experience with Buffalo chicken wings, the ones invented in that fair city in October, 1964 at the Anchor Bar. They are still a popular and favorite crowd-pleaser at barbecues, tailgate parties and picnics. But in 44 years, we've come a long way from the classic deep-fried wings with hot sauce and blue cheese dip.

The husband and wife team of chef-teacher Hugh Carpenter and food-photographer-stylist Teri Sandison are ahead of the curve. Their recent cookbook, "The Great Wings Book," presents more than 50 innovative recipes for appetizers, entrees and snacks for this best of all lip-smackin', bone-suckin' finger foods. They cover everything you need to know to buy, store, roast, grill, smoke, braise and deep-fry wings at home. The book is the latest of their skillfully photographed and always successful Hot and Fast series of books, all from Ten Speed Press. I bought the wings book, tested some recipes and bring you what I think are the best of the flight.

These babies soar

What's not to like? Chicken wings are inexpensive, succulent, a cinch to cook and they reheat beautifully. Usually served as an appetizer, they make a great entree, too. As for menu, what goes with burgers and ribs goes also with wings: potato salad, coleslaw, corn on the cob, garlic bread, watermelon and ice cream. And supply tons of paper napkins and at least one wet wash cloth per person. There will be drips and smears.

For a party, make two or three kinds of wings. Choose the cooking method that makes the most sense with your skills and equipment.

• Braising. This is the simplest, year-round way to cook wings, and it leaves the cook free to be elsewhere. A large deep pan accommodates wings packed closely together so that they are all covered equally with the sauce. The pan is tightly covered and left to simmer quietly. The skin will be soft and juicy, not crispy.

• Deep frying. Most restaurants make their wings in the fryer. After the chicken wings are coated with a protective layer of batter or flour, they are plunged into hot oil to cook, requiring between 10 and 15 minutes of cooking. On the upside, the skin is crisp and the meat is succulent. On the downside, the technique is rife with potential problems including spattering, constant monitoring and the necessity of practice, practice, practice to get it right. Most home cooks just don't make wings often enough to warrant this method.

• Grilling. Use a gas or charcoal-fired grill large enough to hold the wings. The grill must have a tight-fitting lid, because wings are always cooked covered to keep in all the smoky flavors. Better to err on too low a heat rather than too high, because the skin on wings burns easily. If you have a long-stem oven thermometer, insert it into one of the vents on the top lid; and keep the temperature in the 300- to 350-degree range. The wing bones distribute the heat and the skin protects the meat from becoming dry. Which leaves us with:

• Oven Roasting. Easiest wing cooking method? No contest. Grilling may be sexy and macho, but the oven offers the most convenience and control. Use a heavy baking sheet with shallow sides and line it with heavy-duty aluminum foil before placing a nonstick wire rack on top. For insurance, spritz the rack on both sides with a nonstick baking spray or rub liberally with vegetable oil. Burned sugar from marinades makes for nasty cleanup.

Rule-of-thumb One: Place the wings smooth side (pretty side) down. Halfway through the cooking, turn the wings over so that the pretty side colors evenly. And when you turn the wings over, if any juice has accumulated on the bottom of the baking pan, pour it off and discard it. If you don't, the wings will steam during the final 30 minutes of cooking instead of roasting and coloring.

Rule-of-thumb Two: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Or if your oven has a convection setting, set the oven on convection at 350 degrees. Brush with the marinade, turn the wings after 30 minutes and don't brush again or the skin won't get that beautiful bronze or mahogany color. After the wings come out of the oven, wait five minutes before cutting them in half to serve.

An hour sounds like a long time to roast teensy chicken wings, but it's just right. Roasting is a fool-proof technique for them. After the first 30 minutes of roasting, the meat is fully cooked, but the skin is still soft-textured and flabby. It's during the next 30 minutes of roasting that the skin is transformed to a mahogany color and develops crispness. And, hard to believe, the wing meat tastes more intensely moist with the extra cooking.

To reheat, place wings on a shallow baking pan lined with foil, and place in a preheated 300 degree oven for 15 minutes.

We made these

All the recipes I tested call for 24 chicken wings, enough to serve eight to 12 as an appetizer or four as an entree. All directions are simple and straightforward. And because chicken wings are foolproof and almost indestructible, if you can't find fresh wings, buy a bag of frozen. Directions call for marinating in a large bowl, but a resealable plastic bag (on a plate to catch drips) is fine. We played around with these recipes, tweaking them to taste.

• Oven-baked Best-Ever American Wings. If you don't have enough ketchup, add some bottled barbecue sauce. To upgrade the paprika, substitute smoked Spanish paprika, pimenton. If you make just a half-recipe, use small 12-ounce bottles of wine from a four-pack. Turn on your range hood and drive the neighbors crazy. See recipe below.

• Oven-Baked Peanut Butter and Jelly Wings. Kids will love these slightly sweet wings. The hot sauce keeps them from being cloying. The peanut flavor is reminiscent of chicken satay. See recipe below.

• Oven-Baked Asian Mahogany Wings. These get my Best-of-Show award. Dark, sweet and all the ingredients were already in the pantry. If you make only one recipe, this might be the one to do. See recipe below.

• Wings with Hoisin and Red Wine. These remind me of the wings you get in every storefront Chinese restaurant. Serrano chilies give the big kick.

• Stove-top Braised Southwest Wings. These couldn't be easier. Combine ingredients, put in pot, simmer. They cook in half an hour and can be made the day before serving. Take these on a picnic.

• Oven-Baked Cajun Buffalo Wings. The oven does it better again. This recipe has the Cajun thing going with heat, but the base of chili sauce is convenient. Be sure to serve with cornbread or sticks.

Oven-baked Best-Ever American Wings

PG tested

• 24 chicken wings
• 4 cups red wine
• 3 cups ketchup
• 1/2 cup Heinz 57 Sauce
• 6 tablespoons brown sugar
• 1/4 cup chili powder
• 2 tablespoons molasses
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano
• 1 tablespoon dried thyme
• 1 tablespoon paprika
• 1 tablespoon Tabasco sauce
• 3 tablespoons flavorless cooking oil
• 6 cloves garlic, minced

Cut off the wing tips and save them for making stock. In a large bowl, combine the red wine, ketchup, Heinz 57 Sauce, brown sugar, chili powder, molasses, oregano, thyme, paprika and Tabasco sauce. In a 12-inch saute pan, add the oil and saute the garlic. When the garlic begins to brown, add the red wine mixture. Bring to a low boil, then simmer for 20 minutes. Cool to room temperature.

In a bowl large enough to hold the wings, combine the wings and the red wine sauce. Mix thoroughly. Marinate the wings in the refrigerator for 1 to 24 hours (the longer, the better).

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a shallow baking pan with foil. Coat a wire rack with nonstick cooking spray and place the rack in the baking pan. Drain the chicken and reserve the marinade. Arrange the wings on the rack (smooth surface down) and roast for 30 minutes. Drain the accumulated liquid from the pan. Baste the wings with the reserved marinade, turn them over, and baste again. Roast until the wings turn a mahogany color, about another 30 minutes. Cut the wings in half through the joint. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Serves 4 as an entree or 6 to 12 as an appetizer.

-- "The Great Wings Book" by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison (Ten Speed, 2008, $16.95)

OVEN-BAKED ASIAN MAHOGANY WINGS

PG TESTED

• 24 chicken wings
• 1 cup hoisin sauce
• 3/4 cup plum sauce
• 1/2 cup thin soy sauce
• 1/3 cup cider vinegar
• 1/4 cup dry sherry or Chinese rice wine
• 1/4 cup honey
• 2 scallions, ends trimmed, minced
• 6 cloves garlic, minced

Cut off the wing tips and save them for making stock. In a bowl large enough to hold the wings, combine all the remaining ingredients. Add the wings, and mix thoroughly. Marinate the wings in the refrigerator for 1 to 24 hours (the longer, the better).

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a shallow baking pan with foil. Coat a wire rack with nonstick cooking spray and place the rack in the baking pan. Drain the chicken and reserve the marinade.

Arrange the wings on the rack (smooth surface down) and roast for 30 minutes. Drain the accumulated liquid from the pan. Baste the wings with the reserved marinade, turn them over and baste again. Roast until the wings turn a mahogany color, about another 30 minutes. Cut the wings in half through the joint. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Serves 4 as an entree or 6 to 12 as an appetizer.

-- "The Great Wings Book" by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison

OVEN-BAKED PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY WINGS

PG TESTED

Kids love these. The rich peanut butter causes the marinade to thicken around the wings. The jelly (any kind) adds sweetness that is balanced by the tart orange juice. The hot sauce adds a nip of lingering heat.

• 24 chicken wings
• 1/2 cup peanut butter
• 1 cup jelly (raspberry, strawberry or grape)
• 1 cup wine vinegar
• 1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
• 2 tablespoons hot sauce
• 4 cloves garlic, minced

Cut off the wing tips and save them for making stock. In a bowl large enough to hold the wings, combine all the remaining ingredients. Add the wings and mix thoroughly. Marinate the wings in the refrigerator for 1 to 24 hours (the longer, the better).

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a shallow baking pan with foil. Coat a wire rack with nonstick cooking spray and place the rack in the baking pan. Drain the chicken and reserve the marinade.

Arrange the wings on the rack (smooth surface down) and roast for 30 minutes. Drain the accumulated liquid from the pan. Baste the wings with the reserved marinade, turn them over and baste again. Roast until the wings turn a mahogany color, about another 30 minutes. Cut the wings in half through the joint. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Serves 4 as an entree or 6 to 12 as an appetizer.

-- "The Great Wings Book" by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison

WINGS WITH HOISIN AND RED WINE

PG TESTED

• 24 chicken wings
• 1 cup hoisin sauce
• 1 cup red wine
• 1/2 cup oyster sauce
• 1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 6 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 serrano chiles, stemmed and minced, including seeds
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh rosemary sprigs

Cut off wing tips and save them for making stock. In a bowl large enough to hold the wings, combine all the remaining ingredients. Add the wings and mix thoroughly. Marinate the wings in the refrigerator for 1 to 24 hours (the longer, the better).

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a shallow baking pan with foil. Coat a wire rack with nonstick cooking spray and place the rack in the baking pan. Drain the chicken and reserve the marinade.

Arrange the wings on the rack (smooth surface down) and roast for 30 minutes. Drain the accumulated liquid from the pan. Baste the wings with the reserved marinade, turn them over and baste again. Roast until the wings turn a mahogany color, about another 30 minutes. Cut the wings in half through the joint. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Serves 4 as an entree or 6 to 12 as an appetizer.

-- "The Great Wings Book by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison

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STOVE-TOP BRAISED SOUTHWEST WINGS

PG TESTED

• 24 chicken wings
• 2 cups store-bought barbecue sauce
• 1 cup honey
• 1 cup wine vinegar
• 2 tablespoons American chili powder
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 4 jalapeno or serrano chiles, minced, including the seeds

Cut off wing tips and save them for making stock. Cut the wings in half through the joint. In a bowl, combine all the remaining ingredients. Place a deep 12-inch pan over medium-low heat. When hot, add the sauce. Bring to a simmer. Stir in the wings. Bring the liquid to a low boil, cover, turn the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the chicken wings become very tender, about 30 minutes. These can be made up to a day before serving.

Right before serving, bring the wings to a low boil to heat through.

Serves 4 as an entree or 6 to 12 as an appetizer.

-- "The Great Wings Book" by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison

---

OVEN-BAKED CAJUN BUFFALO WINGS

PG TESTED

• 24 chicken wings
• 1 cup mild tomato chili sauce (Heinz is just right)
• 3/4 cup honey
• 1 cup red wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tablespoon crushed red chile flakes
• 6 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh oregano
• 1 scallion, ends trimmed, minced

Cut off wing tips and save them for making stock. In a bowl large enough to hold the wings, combine all the remaining ingredients. Add the wings and mix thoroughly. Marinate the wings in the refrigerator for 1 to 24 hours (the longer, the better).

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a shallow baking pan with foil. Coat a wire rack with nonstick cooking spray and place the rack in the baking pan. Drain the chicken and reserve the marinade.

Arrange the wings on the rack (smooth surface down) and roast for 30 minutes. Drain the accumulated liquid from the pan. Baste the wings with the reserved marinade, turn them over and baste again. Roast until the wings turn a mahogany color, about another 30 minutes. Cut the wings in half through the joint. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Serves 4 as an entree or 6 to 12 as an appetizer.

-- "The Great Wings Book" by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison

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DEEP-FRIED CLASSIC BUFFALO WINGS

These are the wings that started it all. You know the drill. Serve with carrot and celery sticks and blue cheese dressing.

Blue Cheese Dressing

• 1 cup crumbled blue cheese
• 1/2 cup buttermilk
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 2 to 4 tablespoons whipping cream, half-and-half or milk
• 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Wings

• 24 chicken wings
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 to 3 tablespoons hot sauce (Frank's or your favorite)
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon vinegar, any kind
• 4 cups flavorless cooking oil
• Carrot sticks and/or celery sticks, for serving

Make the dressing: In a blender, place 1/2 cup of the blue cheese and all the remaining ingredients and liquefy. For a thinner consistency, add a little more whipping cream. Stir in the remaining 1/2 cup blue cheese. This can be done up to 12 hours before cooking, and then stored, tightly covered, in the refrigerator.

Cut off and discard the chicken wing tips. Cut the wings in half through the joint. You will have 48 pieces. Rub the chicken with salt and pepper. Place the hot sauce, butter and vinegar in a small saucepan. Bring the mixture to a simmer, then set aside.

Place a 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat on an indoor stovetop or an outdoor gas grill. Add the cooking oil. Heat the oil until bubbles form around the end of a wooden spoon dipped into the oil, 350 to 375 degrees. Turn the heat to high. Add half the chicken wings. Deep-fry until the wings become deep golden and the meat is cooked along the bone (cut into one with a paring knife), about 12 minutes. Transfer the wings to a wire rack to drain. Cook the second batch of wings. Place the wings on a serving platter. Pour the butter sauce over the wings. Serve with the dressing and the sticks.

Serves 4 as an entree or 6 to 12 as an appetizer.

-- "The Great Wings Book" by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison