It was the four-letter word that intrigued me. I was relocating from Palm Springs to Pittsburgh, and it was thrown in my face every time I mentioned that I was considering moving to Shadyside.

My Realtor said it. My friend who lives on the North Side said it. The manager of the bed-and-breakfast at which I was staying during a pre-move visit said it. Total strangers -- a woman in Target, a couple at the theater, a meat cutter at Giant Eagle, a waitress at Bob Evans -- said it.

"Don't even think of moving to Shadyside," the message resounded, "because you won't be able to ... park."

I listened then but not now. Having lived here for eight months, Shadyside has since become of my favorite places to visit -- to window-shop, to lazily stroll the tree-lined streets, to people watch, to wine and dine.

Yes, parking is tough (I wonder if there's a black market for parking permits?), but I've learned a few secrets. Arrive early enough to nab one of the meters (don't forget the pocketful of quarters) or grab a spot in the pricey garage on Bellefonte.

Walnut Street reminds me of the Upper West Side in the mid-'80s ... a few outside cafes, some nifty shops, too many big-name chain stores, friendly people walking friendly dogs and, of course, an umbrellaed hot dog cart selling Sabrett all-beef wieners.

Join me on a Shadyside Stroll. We're going walk up and down Walnut, then head to Ellsworth. (I am leaving out Highland; that's an antique adventure in itself.) This is all about shopping and stopping for a nibble or two. You may agree with all my choices, but hey, you can use the exercise.

First stop: Prantl's Bakery to fuel up on one or two snowball cups, mini-mounds of cake topped with gooey icing and coated with coconut. Palatable proof indeed that good things do come in very small packages. (You can burn off the calories at the 24/7 gym, although the only six-pack I will ever own is a case of Tab.)

S.W. Randall, off Walnut on Ivy, is a toy store for people who refuse to grow up; that's why I plunked down $9.99 for a talking Mister Rogers in Your Pocket key chain. Push a button, and Fred utters one of six classic phrases. Other nifty and necessary must-haves can be found at Kawaii (Japanese for "cute"), where a six-piece set of sushi erasers look so real you'll reach for the wasabi.

Plan on spending several days browsing the unique and unusual T-shirts, books, magnet sets and gifts at Kards Unlimited. This is where I got my Curious George T -- he's strung out and sky high, an all-cotton conversation starter for those casual Pittsburgh soirees I keep hearing about but to which I am never invited. Next door is The Coffee Tree Roasters, a perfect place to buck the caffeinated chain, get a buzz and people watch, especially if the front window is open.

On to Ellsworth.

I always stop at lunch at The Elbow Room. Sit in the older dining room with green vinyl booths and wine list painted on the mirrored wall. Don't expect ambiance or fancy digs, just one of the best steak salads ever. (Once you've eaten, walk across the street to the Harris Grill and ask if you can see the men's room. Those who know what I am referring to won't mouth off ... Trust me.)

Ellsworth has too many galleries and hair salons, but serious art lovers need to drop by Mendelson Gallery. I am publicly announcing my birthday (9/17) gift request: an original hand-colored Warhol from his 1974 limited-edition "Flowers" series, a true, signed investment piece at $12,500.

I always end my Ellsworth outing with a stop at Hey Betty!, not so much for the vintage clothing and accessories in pristine condition but to browse through the sundry souvenirs of days gone by. Here is where you'll find collectible art glass, suitcases, hat boxes, drinking tumblers, salt and pepper shakers, eclectic ephemera, even a crucifix, at ridiculously reasonable prices. Hanging upstairs is a pair of 66-inch waist jeans, a wearable, washable reminder of the trouble you face if you scarf down too many of the luscious butter-cream frosted cupcakes at CoCos. Don't forget to say hello to Paolo, the nervous Italian Greyhound who's the store's shaky mascot.

All this walking has made me hungry. Pass the Snowballs and Tab.