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For a fresh, economical approach to chicken, try the tasty dark meat instead of boneless breasts
Check out those legs
Thursday, June 05, 2008

We eat chicken because it tastes good, it's on the lighter side, calorie- and fat-wise, and because it's kind to the budget. According to the Food Marketing Institute, 85 percent of families prepare chicken for dinner once a week. But along with everything else in the grocery cart, chicken is getting more expensive. Experts tell us the price increase of chicken is due to the rising price of corn used for chicken feed, corn now being diverted to produce ethanol to feed our gas tanks.

Judging from my grocery bills and the endless stories on broadcast news, I bet most families feel the need to make the dinner budget stretch further. Chicken is still a thrifty choice, so I've rustled up some fresh approaches and new recipes that are easy on the cook, a little lighter on the wallet and big on taste.

Chicken breasts are often the first thing shoppers reach for at the meat counter. It's understandable. Skinless, boneless breasts are lean and easy to work with. Are they cheap? No. On May 4, at my local Giant Eagle they clocked in at $4.99 per pound. If white meat chicken is overcooked even slightly, it becomes dry and unpalatable.


From an old blues song:
C is the way to begin
H the next letter in
I am the third
C for to season the bird
K the next letter in
E right near the end
C-H-I-C-K-E-N, that's the way you spell chicken.

On the other hand, dark meat chicken -- thighs and drumsticks -- are pretty hard to overcook. Unless you incinerate them, they will stay moist and juicy. And you'll find these parts almost as easy to prepare as breasts -- easier, really, because they require less careful timing.

Dark-meat chicken costs less, too. At the same Giant Eagle, bone-in chicken drumsticks and thighs were marked $1.59 per pound. Even if you factor in a 50 percent "loss" for what's not meat, the skin and bone, it's less per pound. Here is an amazing fact: Because Americans prefer chicken breast meat, much of the dark-meat chicken, what the industry calls "the back half" of the bird, is packed into big containers and shipped to Russia. Why are we letting it get away?

Bones and skin add flavor and moistness to dark-meat chicken. But even without bones, it's got more going for it. If you want to go the boneless route, purchase boneless thighs. They couldn't be more convenient. If you're watching fat, look for skinned bone-in or boneless chicken thighs. But you can save a few pennies by doing it yourself.

Here's how to skin that bird, or part: Simply grasp the skin with a paper towel and pull. Just don't try to skin a wing. After the skin is removed, take another minute to trim any visible fat with a knife or kitchen shears. I nearly always skin both thighs and drumsticks, even if I'm grilling them. That way I remove temptation because the skin contains most of the fat.

It's good for you

According to nutritionist and registered dietician Colleen Pierre, the author of several books, including "The New Healing Foods," chicken legs are a nutrient-packed protein.

Not only do they taste good, they're good for you. Dark-meat chicken contains iron, zinc, and B vitamins, all which help to provide energy to keep you going.

"While it's true chicken drumsticks and thighs pack a little more fat than breast meat, they also pack more minerals and vitamins that boost energy.

"And," she continued, "that little bit of extra leg fat may be just what the doctor ordered. Fat helps you to absorb the fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E, and K that protect your bones, eyes, heart, and immune system. And you know what fat does to flavor. Those few drops of fat make chicken leg meat juicy and delicious."

Delicious, not dry

My brother-in-law only eats white meat chicken, so I always make sure to throw a couple of pieces on the grill or in the oven when he and his family come for dinner. Some folks just like things the way they like it. But no one likes dry chicken. How to solve the problem? Give our Sauteed Chicken Breasts with Cherry Tomatoes, Feta, and Mint a try. In this recipe, the pan-searing method helps to keep the chicken moist.

If you're grilling chicken breasts, sear them on the first side, then turn the piece and continue cooking on a cooler part of the grill.

Cooking easier

The recipes that accompany this article are easy and light on ingredients. I've made suggestions but use whatever part of the chicken is your favorite -- bone-in breasts, thighs, drumsticks, wings -- just adapt the cooking time. Breast pieces will cook more quickly, so start checking about 10 minutes before the dish is supposed to be done.

Matt Lee and Ted Lee have produced a gorgeous, award-winning book, "The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook," which includes the recipe below for Country Captain Chicken.

Turning its pages, I found a phrase I just had to adopt. It's not the first time I'd seen or heard it, but it feels appropriate. Some of their recipes are labeled "Tuesday" and some "Sunday." This means, of course, that some are more involved while others are simple, throw-in-the pan affairs.

I think we all need more Tuesday recipes. I enjoy getting into a more involved dish when I've got something inspiring to cook or when I want to celebrate. But I really love the simple and simply delicious recipes.

I served Country Captain Chicken to guests one evening. We were four hearty eaters and there was plenty left over for dinner for my husband and me the next night. Which kind of pushes the dish it into the Tuesday category. I think you'll like it.

Make it on Sunday.

COUNTRY CAPTAIN CHICKEN

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Garam masala is an Indian spice mixture, as is curry powder. You can find it at Whole Foods or Penzys Spices.

  • 1/2 cup chicken broth
  • 1/2 cup currants or raisins
  • 1 tablespoon curry powder (I used McCormick's Red Curry Powder)
  • 1 tablespoon garam masala
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
  • 4 strips thick-cut bacon, diced
  • 12 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs, trimmed of excess skin and fat
  • 1 pound carrots, sliced
  • 2 yellow bell peppers, coarsely chopped
  • 2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
  • 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
  • 4 cups cooked white rice
  • 1/2 to 2/3 cup slivered almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bring broth to boil in small saucepan; stir in currants. Remove from heat and let soften. In small bowl, mix curry powder, garam masala, salt, and pepper.

Scatter bacon in large, heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring often, until firm and golden, about 6 minutes. With slotted spoon, transfer to small bowl. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons drippings, but reserve excess, if any.

In batches, cook chicken in drippings until golden brown, about 5 minutes per side, adding additional bacon drippings (or olive oil) if necessary. Transfer chicken to clean plate. After browning chicken, spoon off all but 2 tablespoons fat from pan.

Add carrots, bell peppers, onions, and garlic to pan. Cook, stirring often, scraping browned bits from pan bottom, until slightly softened, 6 minutes.

Add tomatoes, ginger, spice mixture, and currants and broth. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until tomatoes have cooked down to a puree and sauce has thickened, 8 minutes.

Nest chicken in sauce, skin side up and above surface. Tent pot loosely with foil or cover with lid askew. Transfer to oven. Bake 20 minutes until sauce is bubbling. Uncover and bake until sauce is very thick and chicken skin is just beginning to crisp, about 15 more minutes.

Skim off fat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Put 1 cup cooked rice in each of 4 bowls; top each with chicken and then sauce. Sprinkle with reserved bacon, almonds, and parsley.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

-- Adapted from "The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook" by Matt Lee and Ted Lee (W.W. Norton, 2006).

ROASTED LEMON-ROSEMARY CHICKEN AND POTATOES

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Little potatoes are most convenient but use whatever you have on hand. Russet baking potatoes may be cut into spears or chunks; larger red- or white-skinned potatoes can be cut into 6 or 8 wedges each.

  • 8 bone-in chicken drumsticks or thighs, or 4 to 6 bone-in breasts, cut in half with kitchen shears, or a combination, skinned if you like (21/2 to 3 pounds)
  • 1 bag (11/2 pounds) small thin-skinned red or Yukon gold potatoes, quartered or halved, if tiny
  • 2 lemons
  • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons grainy Dijon mustard
  • 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 large garlic cloves, smashed with flat side of chef's knife

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Oil rimmed baking sheet or large roasting pan. Put chicken and potatoes on oiled pan.

Zest lemons to get 2 tablespoons loosely packed zest. Squeeze  1/4 cup juice from lemons. Put lemon zest and juice in small bowl. With fork, mix in rosemary, oil, mustard, salt, and pepper. Mix with chicken and potatoes, turning to coat. Scatter garlic around pan.

Roast 45 minutes, turning several times, until chicken is no longer pink in thickest part and potatoes are fork-tender. If potatoes aren't quite tender but chicken is done, remove chicken to platter, and cover loosely to keep warm. Return potatoes to oven and bake about 10 minutes more.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

-- Miriam Rubin

SAUTEED CHICKEN WITH CHERRY TOMATOES, OLIVES, FETA AND MINT

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This quick, elegant chicken dish uses boneless breasts.

  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  • 4 boneless, skinless chicken-breast halves (about 5 ounces each)
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 medium garlic cloves, minced or crushed through a press
  • 1 basket cherry tomatoes, halved
  • 1/2 cup pitted calamata olives, halved
  • 2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (about 1/2 cup)
  • 1/4 cup shredded fresh mint leaves

Put flour in pie plate. Pat chicken dry. Season to taste with salt and pepper. One at a time, coat chicken in flour, shaking off excess.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in large heavy skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Add chicken and cook until well browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Turn and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook until chicken is no longer pink in thickest part or it registers 160- to 165-degree on instant-read thermometer, 6 to 8 minutes, or more, depending on thickness. Transfer to clean serving platter. Cover loosely with foil.

Add 1 tablespoon oil to skillet. Add garlic; cook and stir over medium-high heat until fragrant, 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes and olives, scraping up browned bits from pan bottom. Add 2 tablespoons water if pan is dry. Cook just until tomatoes are softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in accumulated chicken juices from platter.

Off heat, stir in remaining 1 tablespoon oil and pour tomatoes over chicken. Sprinkle with feta and mint and serve.

Makes 4 servings.

-- Adapted from "The Best Chicken Recipes" by the editors of Cook's Illustrated.

BRAISED CHICKEN THIGHS WITH TOMATOES AND PEPPERS

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My husband said that his Bubba would have served this with noodles. I think rice or potatoes, or even bread to sop up the delicious juices. Use a good, heavy skillet or Dutch oven for even cooking.

  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
  • 8 skinned and boned chicken thighs (about 11/2 pounds), fat trimmed, each cut in 3 or 4 pieces
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • 3 large Italian frying peppers or 2 medium red bell peppers (about 1 pound), cut into 1-inch chunks
  • 1 medium sweet onion, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
  • 3 or 4 large garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 box (14 ounces) small tomatoes, such as Campari or Roma, cut into 1-inch chunks

In small bowl, mix salt, black pepper, and crushed red pepper. Sprinkle over chicken.

In large, heavy, deep skillet or Dutch oven, warm 3 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat until very hot. Add half the chicken cook until browned, turning once, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer browned chicken to clean bowl. Repeat with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining chicken. Spoon off all but 2 tablespoons oil from pan.

Return chicken and any accumulated juices to pan. Add peppers, onion, and garlic. Stir well. Stir in tomatoes. Bring juices to a boil.

Reduce heat to medium-low. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, reducing heat if necessary, until chicken is cooked through and vegetables are tender and juicy, 15 to 20 minutes.

Makes 4 generous servings.

-- Miriam Rubin

Miriam Rubin is a freelance food writer who lives in Greene County.
First published on June 5, 2008 at 12:00 am
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