Travel writer Christine H. O'Toole wasn't surprised by all the historic sites and tourist attractions she found in Philadelphia and Pittsburgh.

The two large cities mark the start and end points for the Forbes Trail, the route that British Gen. John Forbes followed in 1758 in his successful effort to drive the French from Fort Duquesne.

This year marks the 250th anniversary of his campaign, which culminated in the British taking control of the Forks of the Ohio and the naming of Pittsburgh.

"The surprises for me were in the small towns, many of which have a well-defined sense of history," said Ms. O'Toole of Mt. Lebanon. "Carlisle and Bedford are two of my favorites."

They are among the seven "gateway" communities featured in "Pennsylvania's Forbes Trail," a combination history and travel guide published this month. The 204-page paperback is a project of "French and Indian War 250 Inc.," the umbrella organization commemorating events during what is often referred to as the first "world war."

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Follow Forbes' footsteps

Pennsylvania's Forbes Trail" focuses on "gateway" communities across the state through which Gen. John Forbes passed on his 1758 expedition to capture what is now Pittsburgh's Point.

Staff writers Len Barcousky and Marylynne Pitz revisited those communities in the spring and summer fo 2008 for a travel series. The communities featured in the Post-Gazette include:

• Lancaster
• Carlisle
• Fort Loudoun
• Bedford
• Ligonier
• Pittsburgh

The stories also include PG video reports of the "gateway" communities.

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"We are trying to imbed the French and Indian War story into the larger fabric of tourism," said Laura Fisher, who edited the book. "We're hoping to appeal to armchair travelers, who will enjoy the photos and illustrations, and then may check out attractions online. We hope other readers will be encouraged to take a weekend trip or visit somewhere closer to home at an attraction they didn't even realize existed."

Ms. Fisher wears two hats, serving as director of French and Indian War 250 and senior vice president of the Allegheny Conference on Community Development.

"I consider myself someone who knows the state fairly well," Ms. Fisher said. "But I hadn't realized the extraordinary richness of visitor experiences available across Central Pennsylvania. It's not just a series of turnpike exits."

Thanks in equal parts to both preservation efforts and benign neglect, the state remains rich in 18th-century homes, churches and inns.

"Downtown Carlisle is 10 minutes from its Turnpike exit," Ms. Fisher said. "It's a beautiful town with terrific places to stay, like the Carlisle House, and restaurants like Piatto, which serves the best Italian food you'll find anywhere."

Published with financial support from the Colcom Foundation, the state and other philanthropic institutions, "Pennsylvania's Forbes Trail" is described in its acknowledgments as a team effort.

Its co-authors are Ms. O'Toole, who wrote travel material; Burton Kummerow, who produced most of the history text; and R. Scott Stevenson, who provided historical sidebars.

Each chapter is illustrated with dozens of color photos and drawings by Gerry Embleton, a British artist and sculptor, and Richard Schlecht.

The book includes a Forbes campaign chronology and a cast of historical characters. Major players are 26-year-old George Washington, an aide to Gen. Forbes who had sparked the conflict with an attack on French forces at Jumonville in 1754; Christian Frederick Post, a Moravian missionary whose diplomatic efforts helped divide the French from their Indian allies; and the brothers Pisquetomen, Tamaqua and Shingas, three Delaware Indian leaders willing to consider peace proposals from the British.

The book starts its Forbes Trail journey in Philadelphia, where the British general arrived in mid-April 1758, and subsequent chapters follow his route through Lancaster, Carlisle, Fort Loudoun, Bedford and Ligonier before ending in Pittsburgh.

Each section opens with a mini-lesson on events and people linked to the French and Indian War and offers suggestions to let visitors "See 1758 today." The chapters then expand out to describe other historical sites and tourist attractions in the area.

The chapter on Bedford, for example, includes information on the community's role in the Whiskey Rebellion, which took place 36 years after the Forbes campaign.

Washington had visited what was then called Raystown in September 1758, bringing Virginia troops to join Forbes.

He returned to Bedford in 1794 as U.S. president and army commander, seeing off a force of 12,000 that continued on to Pittsburgh to punish rebels opposed to a federal tax on whiskey.

The chapter on Carlisle contains information on the U.S. Army War College, which is located there, and its Army Heritage and Education Center, which is open to visitors.

The center, on the northeast edge of town, offers 11 outdoor exhibits that illustrate the experience of soldiers in all of America's wars.

West of Lancaster, Ms. O'Toole found what became one of her favorite destinations, the Wright's Ferry Mansion. Built in 1738, it was the residence of 18th-century Quaker businesswoman Susanna Wright for 46 years. Among the many visitors to her home on the east bank of the Susquehanna River was Benjamin Franklin.

"She composed poetry and traded books with Philadelphia intellectuals," Ms. O'Toole wrote of Wright. "She began to record and translate the vocabulary of the local Shawnee people, and established a successful silk production business by raising her own silkworms."

Her house remains filled with period furniture, much of it made in Philadelphia. "It's a gem worth taking some time to see," she said.

Ms. O'Toole was struck anew by Pennsylvania's varied landscapes. "The state has tremendous natural beauty," she said. "You often can see it better on the smaller roads -- along Route 30 or Route 16 to Mercersburg."

Two and a half centuries after Forbes crossed them, the Allegheny Mountains remain a formidable barrier for anyone trying to move people or goods across the state. "What is remarkable is how much of the landscape remains totally unchanged," Ms. Fisher said. "The book makes clear how the environment and natural history impacted cultural history."

In the middle of the 18th century, Pennsylvania encompassed two very different worlds.

"By 1758, Philadelphia was three generations old and one of the largest cities in the British Empire," Ms. O'Toole said. "It was changing from a Quaker-dominated community to a more cosmopolitan place, emphasizing culture, craftsmanship and elegance. But just go 200 miles, and you were in the Wild West."

"Pennsylvania's Forbes Trail: Gateways and Getaways along the Legendary Route from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh," by Burton K. Kummerow, Christine H. O'Toole and R. Scott Stephenson. Taylor Trade Publishing, 208 pages. $18.95.

Copies of the book can be ordered online through the Forbes Trail Web site, www.forbestrail.org.

Features on the Web site include an interactive map describing the Forbes Trail. The accompanying French and Indian War overview was written by David Dixon, a professor of history at Slippery Rock University.

The book also will be for sale at state parks and museums, national parks, historic sites and tourist destinations across Pennsylvania.

"Pennsylvania's Forbes Trail" is being distributed to bookstores through the National Book Network."