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As with most 18th-century recipes, this one for fried chicken from Colonial Williamsburg is slightly vague: "To fricasse a chicken: You must take your chickens, and do not skin the chickens, and cut them into small pieces, and rub them over with yolks of eggs. Have ready some grated bread, a little beaten mace, and a little grated nutmeg mixed together, and then roll them in it; put a little butter in a stew-pan, and when it is melted put in your meat. Fry it a fine brown and take care they do not stick to the bottom of the pan." Here, a modern interpretation:

• 5 cups plain bread crumbs
• 1 whole chicken, cut into small pieces
• 2 blades of mace, beaten or ground, or 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/2 nutmeg, grated, or 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 6 egg yolks, beaten
• 1 pound lard or enough oil to fill two inches in pan

In a large bowl, mix together bread crumbs and spices. Dip chicken pieces in beaten egg yolk, and then dredge in bread mixture. Put lard or oil in a heavy skillet, and allow to heat. When oil is hot enough, a drop of water should bead and crackle when dropped in the pan. Slowly fry the chicken, turning frequently, until brown and cooked through (165 degrees with a meat thermometer).

Serves 4.