The facade is a study in contrasts: Ultra-modern, stark lettering hovers above Christmas-light-rimmed windows and colorful window boxes. Inside, a banquette of luxurious flowered red velvet; black and white pictures of Parisian monuments and small glass lamps filled with flickering candles cast a cozy spell.

But look up and your view may be dominated by a "picture screen," a large shifting projection of still life images of Pittsburgh and Paris. Stairs climb at divergent angles, providing a unique division between dining rooms and breaking up the thin, long space. Large white plates frame entrees like still lifes.

Palate Bistro offers diners a variety of experiences as well. You can sit in the interior "bistro" section, if you're in the mood for a noisy, festive crowd, or choose the front dining room for a quieter, more intimate experience. For a romantic tete-a-tete, request a table in the window nook and gaze out at Heinz Hall in all of its French Court splendor.

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Palate Bistro

3 stars = Excellent
Ratings explained

212 Sixth St.
Cultural District
412-434-1422
www.palatebistro.com

• Hours: Lunch, Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m.; dinner, Monday-Thursday 5-10 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 5-11 p.m.
• Basics: This lovely, modern restaurant serves subtle twists on classic French dishes in multiple spaces, each with its own atmosphere. Attentive, professional service will satisfy even the most demanding diner.
• Recommended Dishes: House Salad Composition, Arugula and Pear Salad, Grilled Calamari, Pancetta-wrapped monkfish, Lamb T-Bones, Gnocchi, Hanger Steak, Goat Cheese Cheesecake, Chocolate Berry Tart.
• Prices: Appetizers, $7-$12; entrees, $18-$33; desserts, $8; wines by the glass start at $8, by the bottle start at $25.
• Summary: Main dining room and restrooms are wheelchair accessible; non-smoking; free parking in garage at Penn and Sixth Street (with validation); credit cards accepted; reservations encouraged; corkage $15.
• Noise level: Main dining room, quiet; "bistro" room very loud when full.

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The sense of style and attention to detail are clearly a reflection of owner John Valentine's experience and passion. After a lifetime of being involved in other people's restaurants, as well as a variety of other enterprises, Valentine was more than ready to start a restaurant of his own.

More often than not he'll greet you at the door, check in on your table and warmly bid you goodbye. It seems likely that the restaurant's well-above-average service is due to his vigilance, as well as the excellent supervision of general manager Andy Johanson.

It is difficult to draw up a list of attributes of great service. Obviously it involves specific tasks, such as refilling water, replacing silverware and taking orders, and Palate's servers executed these tasks flawlessly, efficiently and, whenever possible, imperceptibly.

But a great server must also be able to read his or her guests -- to know whether they want to chat or be left alone, whether they're in a hurry or long for a leisurely evening. Palate servers demonstrated good judgment and an impeccable sense of timing. Most important of all? They inspired confidence. No need to worry that your glass of wine will be forgotten or your special request ignored; your server will take care of you.

Style and service alone make Palate Bistro a fantastic addition to Cultural District dining. The food is not groundbreaking, but it is consistently well-executed and glimmers with the possibility of future greatness. After the departure of chef Ryan Racicot, Valentine decided to go in a slightly different direction. Ronny Goss, who graduated from the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute, is the kitchen manager. Future menus will be collaborations among Valentine, Johanson and Goss.

The appetizer or "prelude" section of the menu is currently the weakest. Veal Sweetbreads ($12) served with a Belgian Waffle, a 60-minute egg, huckleberry sauce and smoked bacon attract attention for the ambitious combination of unexpected elements. Despite delicious sweetbreads with a superbly creamy texture, this dish was a flop. From the egg that does not reflect the exceptional texture of low-temperature, long-cooked eggs to the out-of-place waffle, I was completely baffled by this dish.

The Beef Tartar ($10) was a good dish undone by too many garnishes, from juliennes of red bell pepper to overwhelming caperberries. There was also a bit of gristle left on the meat.

Take refuge in simpler, more straightforward appetizers that are much more successful. The House Salad ($9) is a delightful (if downright trendy) combination of spring greens, crisp Granny Smith apple, intense blue cheese and smoky bacon dressing. Is there anything that improves a salad more than dressing it in bacon? The Arugula and Pear Salad ($8) is another solid presentation.

The Grilled Calamari ($9) was very good, balancing a straightforward presentation with intriguing flavors. Three squid bodies were stuffed with potato and andouille sausage, keeping them moist and flavorful.

Though I didn't get to try them, Onion Soup ($7), Butternut Squash Soup ($8) and Mussels and Frites ($8) all sound promising.

Entrees were consistently successful. Hanger Steak ($24) is a wonderfully flavorful cut especially favored in France. Though it does have a slightly more chewy texture (it's best to order it medium-rare, rather than rare), it is a good counterpoint to the ubiquitous filet mignon. Next time I would order it without the steak sauce, which was too salty.

Lamb T-bones ($33) had that perfect contrast between crust and moist, pink meat, but it was the accompaniments that really made this dish memorable. Fluffy red pepper couscous and perfectly cooked, pencil-thin asparagus created a visually stunning plate with an unexpected lightness.

Offerings from the sea were also well received. Monkfish's vaguely meaty texture was enhanced by a wrapping of pancetta ($26). The saline tones of Cherry Stone clams lent balance to creamy, rich potato gratin that was totally French in its glorification of the potato. Julia Child would adore this dish.

The Bouillabaisse ($21) was not as unified, though its weakness helps explain the relatively low price (Bouillabaisse is usually a very expensive dish in restaurants). A salmon filet, clams, mussels, shrimp and a scallop were all properly cooked and delicious, bathed in a saffron fennel broth that was as lovely to smell as it was to taste. But the dish was filled out with what I can only surmise were overcooked scraps of tuna that frustrated the quality of the rest of the ingredients.

Like most fairly traditional French restaurants, Palate has only a few vegetarian options; fortunately, they are not afterthoughts. The Gnocchi ($18) were properly fluffy and perfumed with the scent of white truffles. When it was served on one visit with yellow squash, spinach, cherry tomatoes and asparagus, I was struck by how rare it is to find a restaurant dish that showcases vegetables so successfully.

Desserts were uneven. A goat cheese cheesecake ($8) was absolutely breathtaking, but on two occasions creme brulees were unforgivably runny ($8).

The wine list is fairly short and almost exclusively French and Californian. More than half the bottles are under $50. By-the-glass prices seem to be calibrated to encourage ordering by the bottle, which is unfortunate but understandable.

The food here is enhanced by wine, but if you have time and the inclination, have a drink before dinner. The drink list is better than most, balanced between true classics and drinks with a modern, trendy twist.

With options for everything from a quick snack to an extravagant, celebratory dinner and with some of the finest service in Pittsburgh, Palate Bistro promises to be a beloved Downtown destination for years to come.