
In spite of wintry weather, the calendar says it is officially spring. In our house, it's time for a major housecleaning. That is why I have spent the past week going through my wine books trying to cull a few to make room for the new crop that arrives each year. I have counted 276 volumes of wine-related books on the shelves -- and a few more under the bed!
Though that might seem excessive to a non-wine-lover, it is only a fraction of what it might be if I had infinite shelf space. After all, the Shields Library at the University of California at Davis has a catalog of 27,000 titles in 29 languages.
One of my tomes is subtitled, "A History and Bibliography of Wine Books in the English Language" and indexes 8,000 entries.
Even though my own collection seems absurdly modest by comparison, I knew it was time to do some eliminating. A few years ago I gave away about half of my bloated cookbook collection, but that was much easier. One always can turn to the Internet for recipes, but wine material is harder to come by. As I analyzed the value of each volume, I began asking myself which ones are so important that if the house were on fire, they would be high on the list of things to try to save. I managed to eliminate only 23 books. Of course, not all of the remaining 250 would escape the fire but as long as the house stands, those "friends" will have a home.
One by-product of my weeding process is this list of the books that I consider essential for a good home wine reference library. They are the ones that will go down the fire escape with me.
Edited by Jancis Robinson, Oxford University Press, Third Edition 2006
With 4,000 entries on just about any wine-related topic imaginable, this hefty book covers the gamut from wine history to regions and grape varieties to viticulture and enology. Well illustrated with maps and diagrams and color photographs, the Oxford companion should be on the shelf of all serious wine consumers. Some refer to it as the wine nut's bible. There is also a skinny, pared-down, paperback version, which is a good choice for the less nutty, "The Concise Wine Companion." This baby version has eliminated all entries related to wine-based spirits (brandy, eau de vie and such) and fortified wines. That leaves the table-wine entries, which are sufficient for most wine consumers.
By Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson, Mitchell Beazley, Sixth Edition 2007
This has been a staple in my library since the first edition, published in 1971. Considered a classic, there are more than 4 million copies in circulation in 14 languages. It serves all levels of wine-lovers from neophytes to pros with a fabulous collection of vineyard maps and soil and climate details of every important wine region. The beginning chapters provide a detailed introduction to wine history, grapes, terroir, vineyard work, cellar work and how wine is made.
By Oz Clarke, Harcourt, 2001
Jancis Robinson, Mitchell Beazley, 1992
Both of these books are out of print but still available from third-party sellers on Amazon. Although the subject is the same, the authors approach the subject of grape varieties from different perspectives and I refer to each of them frequently. Oz Clarke has a very approachable writing style that makes the material not only informative but readable. Jancis Robinson is more focused on the clones of the major varieties. The books work well together. Grape varieties are the key to understanding modern wine and these two books will unlock many mysteries and bring a new dimension to your pleasure.
By Michael Broadbent, Mitchell Beazley
My copy of this book dates from 1968 but this classic reference continues to be revised and updated. It is a detailed manual of wine tasting and a great guide to organizing a tasting.
By Karen MacNeil, Workman, 2001
I love the fun and breezy style of this serious and comprehensive expose of all the major wine-producing countries. Karen MacNeil is the director of the wine program at the Culinary Institute of America in Napa Valley. Her wine education skills are evident on every page. Boxes encapsulate important elements, anecdotes relate personal experiences and side bars impart interesting details regarding local foods and traditions. This is the book I recommend to those asking for a beginner's introduction to wine, but at the same time, it is a valuable reference for a wine pro.
By Joseph Bastianich and David Lynch, Potter, 2002
Italy produces more wine than any other country and understanding the vastly diversified regions, grape varieties and winemaking techniques requires help. This very comprehensive book will demystify the intricate appellations with an encyclopedic coverage of all aspects of the Italian wine scene.
By Patrick Forbes, Gollancz, 1967
If you are a Champagne drinker, you must have this book. It is the most complete study of the Champagne region I have found. It includes a comprehensible explanation of the grape rating system and the way contracts are made between grape growers and Champagne houses. This is not a light read but an invaluable tool for anyone wanting to thoroughly understand Champagne. Although it's long out of print, I found numerous copies for sale on the Internet.
By John Radford, Mitchell Beazley, 2004
In the past decade, Spain has revolutionized and vastly improved its wine production. John Radford has covered every aspect of the wines and wine regions of Spain, from their beginnings up to the present day. He has included information about the revised Spanish wine law introduced in 2003.
By Oz Clarke, Harcourt, 2004
With his trademark wit and style, Oz Clarke covers the key wine regions of Australia, Australian grapes, terroir and producers. The book offers wonderful geological-style maps of the vineyard regions.
By Daniel Rogov, Toby Press, 2007
Israel's rapidly developing wine industry is largely unfamiliar to Americans. This guide includes up-to-the-minute information about every Israeli winery and the wines they produce and indicates which ones are kosher. The author is Israel's most influential wine critic with a weekly column in the newspaper Haaretz.
By Edmund Penning-Rowsell, Penguin, 1969 (The sixth edition, 1989, is available through third-party sellers on Amazon)
This little paperback with yellow, dog-eared pages is still the most useful volume I have on Bordeaux. The Robert Parker and Clive Coates works titled "Bordeaux" are more up-to-date and are present on the shelf but I find myself always checking to see what Mr. Penning-Rowsell will have to say on Bordeaux subjects.
By Anthony Hanson, Faber, 1995
Note: there is a later edition of this work but it has been greatly reduced. I suggest buying the older version from used book sellers.
This is THE book for Burgundy lovers. It is of little interest to beginners but has the most complete and in-depth information on Burgundy in general. There are many newer volumes such as Clive Coates "The Domaines of Burgundy," but if the flames were to spark, this is the book I would grab.
By Matt Kramer, Running Press, 2004
As California continues to evolve as a world-class wine region, Matt Kramer offers an insightful guide to the changes and the factors that are responsible for the new wine profiles coming out of the state.
By Paul Lucas, Houghton Mifflin, 2000
A splendid history of wine production in the United States beginning with Cincinnati's Nicholas Longworth, who in 1803 had the first commercially successful winery in America. The author populates his narrative with a series of quirky heroes and visionaries who changed the course of wine history. In addition to being informative, the book is a good read.
In addition to these educational volumes, I have a number of favorite books for recreational reading on wine-related topics. But they will have to be a subject of a future column.
You might well ask about the volumes that got pitched. Most of them were outdated buying guides. A few were early editions of books that I have in a later version such as "The World Atlas of Wine."
The 2 feet of reclaimed shelf space is admittedly skimpy, but it's a lot better than being forced to cram more tomes under the bed!