While he is far better known for his culinary adventures than for his food, "Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook" is a down-to-earth introduction to brasserie-style cooking, with attitude. This recipe produces a pretty, salmon-colored soup with a delicate but decidedly fennel flavor.

-- Patricia Lowry

PG TESTED

• 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 fennel bulbs, cored and thinly sliced
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 1 small potato, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
• 1 8-ounce can plum tomatoes
• 6 cups light chicken stock or broth
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat and add the fennel, onion and potato. Reduce the heat to medium low and let the vegetables sweat for 10 minutes, taking care to not let them brown. Add the tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes more. Stir in the chicken stock, bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 1 hour.

Remove the pot from the heat and let the soup cool for a few minutes. Transfer the mix to a blender and, working in batches to avoid accidents, puree until smooth. Return to the pot, bring to a boil, lower to a simmer and season with salt and pepper.

Improvisation: You can boost the flavor elements by adding a few slices of garlic with the vegetables at the beginning and a few drops of Pernod at the very end. You can also get cute by garnishing each bowl with a few bits of diced tomato and a drop or two of basil or parsley oil.

-- "Les Halles Cookbook," by Anthony Bourdain