There's a new joint in town, the Istanbul Grille, Oakland, and it serves the best baba ghannouj I have ever tasted. I consider myself a connoisseur with a long history of baba consumption in all corners of the former Ottoman Empire. From the Balkans to the Levant to North Africa and, of course, Turkey, I have sampled this delicious, tart, smoky and creamy eggplant preparation. The recipe is simple: whole eggplant grilled over charcoal or a wood fire mashed with olive oil, lemon juice and garlic. But oh, how the results can vary. The garlic should be subtle, the lemon just enough to cut the oil but not overpower the wonderful smokiness of the eggplant. The Istanbul Grille serves this sublime combination in a most perfect example. The eatery on North Craig Street is essentially a take-out place with just a few tables and chairs, but I did consume my baba ghannouj, served with warm pita bread, on site. And I took the opportunity to also sample its excellent spicy hummus, cheese borek and falafel, all priced at $4. Those four appetizers became an ample and not-soon-to-be-forgotten lunch for two. Whether eating in or taking out, Istanbul's baba ghannouj is worth a drive to Oakland (305 N. Craig St., 412-325-3346).

-- Elizabeth Downer