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Capsule Restaurant Reviews
Thursday, March 20, 2008
Below are capsule versions of recent reviews by Post-Gazette restaurant critic China Millman. She returns next week.

MEZZANOTTE CAFE

This quirky neighborhood cafe serves straightforward Italian-American food in a slightly peculiar dining room. Enjoy abundant appetizers and pastas for reasonable prices, with friendly and competent service. On weeknights the restaurant can be quiet, but don't let that keep you away; even when you're the only patrons in the restaurant, this comfort food has the power to soothe.

4621 Liberty Ave.,Bloomfield, 412-688-8070, mezzanottecafe.com.

THE PASSPORT CAFE

The Passport Cafe brings an experienced chef and maitre d' and a devotion to local and seasonal foods to Pine and surrounding areas.

The Pine Tree Shoppes, 12087 Perry Highway, Pine, 724-934-3663, www.passportcafepittsburgh.com

SOBA

Sophisticated, sultry and smooth, Soba pleases the eye and the palate. Still the most popular gathering spot for Pittsburgh's wealthier young trend-setters, Soba promises good people watching any night of the week. Serious diners will want to seek out the restaurant's more unusual offerings on Chef Jamie Achmoody's pan-asian menu, such as braised beef short ribs with massaman curry and kafir lime gremolata.

5847 Ellsworth Ave., Shadyside, 412-362-5656, www.bigburrito.com/soba.

JOSEPH TAMBELLINI'S

A good place to experience unrushed, pleasantly formal dining. At Tambellini's you're paying for atmosphere, attentive service, and generally crowd-pleasing food.

5701 Bryant Ave., Highland Park, 412-665-9000, www.josephtambellini.com.

MOJO BISTRO

The fun, funky dining room is the perfect gathering place. The menu still needs work (and some copy editing) but a few excellent dishes demonstrate the kitchen's potential. Friendly, if somewhat harried, servers will put you at ease, even if you have to wait.

172 Lincoln Ave., Bellevue, 412-761-2828.

COSTA DEL SOL

A recent addition to the tapas-trend, Costa del Sol offers a wide variety of small plates with eclectic inspirations. The below-ground dining room is soothing and attractive.

736 Bellefonte St., Shadyside, 412-682-1481.

LIDIA'S PITTSBURGH

Savor rustic Italian comfort food prepared with the highest quality ingredients and served by polished professionals. From the bread basket to the delicious and affordable wine list, every detail is taken care of. You'll want to return again and again.

1400 Smallman St., Strip District, 412-552-0150.

DISH OSTERIA AND BAR

Authentic, ingredient-driven Sicilian cuisine so delicious it's worth braving the South Side on a Saturday night.

128 S. 17th St. South Side 412-390-2012 www.dishosteria.com.

GENO'S RESTAURANT AND BIG BELLY DELI

New England seafood shack meets Italian-American restaurant meets neighborhood watering hole. Geno's restaurant mixes up old-fashioned charm with exhibits by local artists and regular open-mike nights.

5147 Butler St., Lawrenceville 412-781-3432.

TANA ETHIOPIAN CUISINE

Share communal platters of authentic food in an attractive dining room decorated with images and art from Ethiopia. Have fun and get your hands dirty.

5929 Baum Blvd. East Liberty, 412-665-2770, tanaethiopiancuisine.com.

NICKY'S THAI KITCHEN

Great Thai food tastes even better when served with this kind of care and attention to detail, especially when comined with remarkably low prices. Beautifully presented dishes offer complex, unusually balanced flavors.

321 South Ave., Verona, 412-828-0339, www.nickysthaikitchen.com.

First published on March 20, 2008 at 12:00 am
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