Q. I'm considering growing some blueberry bushes but don't know how they will do around here. I have been considering growing them in outdoor containers if possible. What are my chances of success and are there any other tips you would offer?
A. Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) grow very well in our area as long as you pay careful attention to soil preparation. They require an acidic, evenly moist yet well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Start with a soil test so that you can incorporate enough sulfur to get the pH into the preferred range of 4.5 to 5.5. Many gardeners spend a season getting the soil prepared and plant the following spring, but much depends on the existing soil conditions in your yard.
Winter cold can be the limiting factor for perennial or woody plants in containers in our climate. Many plants simply do not tolerate having their root systems completely frozen even if they are winter hardy when planted in the ground.
One way to get around that challenge is to choose plants that are much hardier than our coldest Zone 5a. Blueberries are hardy to USDA Zone 3, so that is in your favor. Use the largest containers possible if you intend to leave them outdoors over the winter. Blueberries are large plants; those that grow 4-5 feet tall and wide are considered compact growers. At minimum, use something as large as a half whiskey barrel with holes drilled in the bottom. It is critical that the containers have good drainage to avoid ice build-up during freezing weather.
Another way to protect container-grown plants over the winter is to move them into an unheated garage in late fall. That allows you to control the water. You will need to water them periodically over the winter, perhaps only two or three times. It is important to monitor soil moisture. Blueberries are shallow-rooted plants that require good drainage but resent drying out completely. They lack root hairs, the structure on most plant roots responsible for absorbing water and nutrients. This makes them extremely sensitive to too much or too little water.
Your container soil mixture will be important to success. Be sure to fill the entire container with the soil mixture, rather than filling the bottom with gravel or any other material. To make your soil mixture, start with a good soilless mix that contains a high percentage of peat moss. Amend it with an equal amount (by volume) of homemade compost (avoid mushroom compost here because it tends to have a high pH, around 8.0). You should also mix in small pine bark chips for some longer-lasting organic matter, about half the volume of potting mix or compost.
Finish with medium chicken grit for sharp drainage, about one-quarter of the volume of potting mix or compost. Chicken grit is pH neutral and does not break down. It's available at farm supply stores such as Agway.
You can also mix in a coated release fertilizer such as Osmocote Azalea, Camellia, Rhododendron Smart Release Plant Food, according to label directions. This also contains an acidifying agent, which will help keep the pH in the desired range for blueberries.
Once they are planted, topdress the containers with the same fertilizer annually. Avoid the temptation to use more than the label rate of fertilizer; that could burn their shallow roots. You should also avoid less expensive, quick-release fertilizers in containers because the relatively small soil volume cannot buffer the strong salts they contain. You may want to purchase a quick soil pH test kit to monitor the pH so you can amend it as needed to keep the pH low enough for the blueberries.
The typical recommendation is to plant two or three different blueberry cultivars to ensure good cross-pollination, which will increase fruit set and spread out the harvest. Some cultivars that would be good for your use include 'Patriot' (early), 'Blueray' (midseason) and 'Elliot' (late).
Once they are planted, water them thoroughly and mulch with an inch or so of the same small pine bark chips you used to incorporate into your soil mix. This will help conserve soil moisture and moderate soil temperatures.
Place the containers in full sun, reasonably close to one another to ensure good pollination. Once the plants begin to set fruit, you will have to cover them with netting to keep birds from devouring the ripening fruits. Monitor water use and provide supplemental water as necessary. As the shrubs mature and their leaves spread over the edge of the containers, you may be surprised that you have to water, even if it rains, because the foliage will shed rainwater.