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Munch goes to The Original Soupman
Thursday, February 07, 2008

It was one of those gloomy, gray, miserable days that we in Pittsburgh call a Monday. Or Tuesday or Wednesday or Thursday, for that matter, but Munch digresses. Munch tends to get cranky this time of year. The point is, it was a day for soup.

But it was not a day for standing outside in line getting rained on while waiting for soup, as Munch had heard had been the case last week when the much-ballyhooed Original Soupman opened its first Pittsburgh location.

So Munch and Reliable Lunch Partner of Munch hatched a plan: They would wait until after 1 p.m. when the crowd was sure to have died down in an early lunch-eating city such as the 'Burgh. Then they would grab Loud Laughing Co-worker of Munch and New to Pittsburgh Friend of Munch and descend on Forbes Avenue to see what all the fuss was about.

A quick primer for those who don't follow popular sitcoms, Manhattan takeout joints or franchise opportunities: The Original Soupman is a franchise version of Soup Kitchen International, the now-closed New York City restaurant whose colorful owner, Al Yeganeh, inspired the "Soup Nazi" episode of "Seinfeld."

For the record, Mr. Yeganeh detests any mention of "Seinfeld" or "the N word" in reference to the franchises, but look at that, Munch just did it anyway. Anonymity has its privileges.

When the Munch bunch sidled up Forbes Avenue just after 1 p.m., there was indeed no line outside. But the line inside was still quite substantial: There were almost two dozen people in front of Munch. Glossy takeout menus by the door listed "Al's 50 Classics" soups rotated daily through the restaurant, as well as salads, sandwiches and smoothies.

Ten or so soups were listed on a sidewalk chalkboard as being available that day, and Munch and Co. perused the board as they waited in line. Seating is limited in the restaurant -- one two-seater table and bar seating along the window -- so Munch and NTPFOM took RLPOM and LLCOM's orders as they saved seats.

And here's where things got tricky: At least half the soups actually available that day didn't match the ones on the board outside -- and Munch couldn't see the actual soup board until immediately before it was time to order. So Munch and NTPFOM were calling back and forth across the restaurant to get new orders from RLPOM and LLCOM, plus making up new orders for themselves on the spot.

In the chaos, Munch surely violated Mr. Yeganeh's three rules for customers (Pick the soup you want! Have your money ready! Stay to the left!). If he were there, it would have been No Soup for Munch. But the employees on Forbes Avenue were perfectly pleasant and patiently let Munch get by with a not-so-streamlined order.

Munch ended up with a bowl of seafood gumbo ($6.65), RLPOM chose a bowl of lobster bisque ($8.95), LLCOM ordered the beef gumbo rice bowl ($7.45) and NTPFOM went for the lobster bisque trio (a cup of soup plus a drink and a panini, plus a piece of fresh fruit, $10.95).

And, Munch is pleased to say, it was worth the wait. Munch's gumbo was hearty and spicy and flush with shrimp, mussels and other seafood. The lobster bisque is the most expensive item on the menu, but the consistency is perfect, and portions of actual lobster chucks were far more generous than any of the Munchers expected. Both actually tasted homemade, without much of a salt or chemical taste (the soups are made off-site, flash frozen and shipped to Pittsburgh, where toppings are added on site).

LLCOM's beef gumbo wasn't as spicy as had been anticipated, but it was still tasty and filling. With the sizable portion that came with the rice bowl, LLCOM didn't even touch his complimentary piece of bread or his free apple.

RLPOM is already planning a return trip. He spotted Cuban black bean soup on the takeout menu and won't rest until he's tried it (cups of vegetable soups are only $3.50). LLCOM, who confessed to not actually being a big fan of soup (Munch doesn't get this), wants to go back to try the sandwiches, which looked fresh and affordable.

Munch wants to go back, too, but is officially pleading that the outside soup display be kept consistent with what's actually available, and that the sign inside be a little more visible. Now, Munch and RLPOM need to see if they can wait even later than 1 p.m. for lunch there. Munch has a feeling the place will be busy for a while.

First published on February 7, 2008 at 12:00 am
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