NEW YORK CITY -- Smart fashion designers understand why the fashion business is more about bottom lines than hemlines. The latter always changes while the former is an ever-present constant.

So when you're already catering to a market that generally cares little about fashion and buys mainly out of necessity -- read "men" -- and then the economy goes and gets all soft and sluggish, it's time to rein in creative abandon and produce clothes that are handsome, familiar and uncompromisingly masculine.

That's the direction fall menswear appeared to be heading in the first day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week here.

It's been said that no one can dress a man better than a woman. Or, better yet, a stylish woman who loves men. The new Nautica line sent out by creative director Mirian Lamberth was designed for a man's man, a gentlemanly fellow who wants to be nattily and comfortably attired whether he's playing the sport, watching it or is owner of the team.

Some wondered how Nautica, a brand with its feet (and name) planted firmly in sailing and other nautical sports, would weather the departure several years ago of genius creative director David Chu. With Lamberth at the helm, skepticism should evaporate.

She understands the obvious: that cold weather is time to dress in layers. For too many men, unfortunately, that translates into stuffy and sloppy. That makes her aesthetic all the more refreshing, with luxuriously layered looks, the ideal fusion of sporty and sophisticated, athletic and elegant. Picture a gray wool sportcoat with navy ribbon trim over a navy wool sweater with cable knitting and navy pinstripe cargo pants. Or a red nylon hooded windbreaker under a sail white cashmere peacoat with a navy-and-white striped T-shirt and zip sweater and navy moleskin pants.

Contrasting textures in rich textiles add a warm, refined feel to dressing. And there were a few pleasant surprises for other dimensions of dressing: a gray wool cableknit robe that puts a bold new twist on a neglected old piece; sharp velvet smoking jackets in gray and navy worn with dark denim jeans or black nylon pants; red nylon trousers that added just the right pop of color to a charcoal cashmere jacket and a cream cashmere hooded cable sweater.

Perry Ellis was similarly situated at the intersection of luxury and functionality. Creative director John Crocco's autumn and winter ensembles gave a hunter-inspired twist to forest and berry colors played off textured neutrals of gray and black.

As with Nautica's line, Perry Ellis makes mixing and matching easy, something every man appreciates, whether he's dressing up or down. Even the looks in which guys wore trousers tucked into Wellies managed to look clean and polished.

There were several must-have items, such as burgundy lambskin stable pants, a charcoal wool windowpane Hunter's tuxedo jacket and a clever reversible camouflage bomber in dark chocolate, and navy storm pants and a purple velvet reversible puffer vest, both in sleek polyester-nylon.

Always one of the most enjoyable shows each February, the Big Red Dress Collection runway presentation was initiated five years ago to raise awareness of heart disease among women. Yesterday's show spotlighted 15 entertainers in striking red outfits custom made by various designers.

Molly Sims opened the show in a sparkling strapless dress by Daniel Swarovski, and Liza Minnelli brought down the house at the end as she sang Sinatra's signature "New York" wearing a Halston Original pants ensemble.

In between were a number of gorgeous looks, from Michael Kors' sexy flapper-style frock on Lisa Rinna and Tracy Reese's fits-like-a-glove mini on Ashanti to Badgley Mischka's strapless dress on Ana Ortiz and Lily Samii's dramatic fuschia-lined red jacket and long skirt on Rita Moreno.