For once, I didn't dread the forecast of snow as I glanced out my living room window.

That was because our automotive guest du jour was none other than a tony-looking 2008 Subaru Outback Wagon. It's a car that lives for snow, and it showed as we drove.

This car functions not only well in bad weather, but it surrounds passengers in creature comforts of every description. Subarus, in case you haven't driven one in years, are not the rather modestly appointed tough little cars of old.

Legacies and Outbacks have evolved into luxurious, decently priced, upscale automobiles that should be on the shopping lists of practical, value minded consumers who don't want to be punished behind the wheel every day for having thought about function and usefulness first.

Our Outback had a base price of $27,895, which included all-wheel drive, vehicle dynamics control, anti-lock brakes, side curtain air bags, active front seat head restraints, a 2.5-liter, 4-cylinder, 175-horsepower engine with a sportshift, four-speed, automatic transmission, alloy wheels and all the usual power accoutrements.

You also get a CD stereo system, an auxiliary audio jack, cruise control, a tilt/telescope steering wheel, leather-trimmed upholstery and a cargo area tray.

Safety is Subaru's strong suit, so it should come as no surprise that the government has given this car a five-star rating for driver and passenger protection in frontal crashes, five stars for front and rear seat protection in side crashes, and four stars for rollover protection.

Fuel economy ratings are 20 and 26, with annual fuel costs estimated at $1,809. But our Outback seemed a bit thirstier, and a number of Outback owners in chat rooms have complained that the car uses more gasoline than advertised; so you may want to look into it before you buy.

Another problem is that the car feels cramped inside, especially in the back seat. There just didn't seem to be enough "wiggle" room to have full comfort. Getting two baby seats and a small third child in the rear seat was a chore and resulted in complaints, crying and just plain misery from my family. If you have three such youngsters, you may want to take your car seats to the dealer to try them out before buying.

I also found that the cup holders weren't good for some of the larger sizes of bottles, and storage was not as generous as some similar cars that I've tested.

On the other hand, while the interior was short on space, everyone enjoyed a smooth ride, operating the controls, having enough support in the seats and ease of entry and exit. The car was so comfortable to drive and the seats so cozy that the Outback seemed more like a sensibly sized luxury car.

Handling on Subaru models usually is a plus, and that certainly is the case for this car. It behaved predictably, the brakes performed well with no dives or grabbing, and it cornered like a champ. Acceleration was sprightly, and I never felt the need for additional horses.

Styling-wise, my blue and gray Outback looked classy, and thanks to tasteful use of accents and chrome, the interior came off splendidly as well. These are not cheaply appointed cars -- they can hold their own with just about any brand.

But the star of the Subaru show clearly is its "symmetrical all-wheel-drive" system; As you may know, Subaru's engine is horizontally opposed, shaped overall like as box.

The symmetrically arranged AWD works with the engine in providing stability and a sense of self-assuredness to the handling. Subaru officials say it's more efficient than other all-wheel-drive systems at transmitting power to provide more grip on slick surfaces.