On a cold, rainy night of driving down Ardmore Boulevard into Forest Hills, it's hard to imagine that you're about to stumble across a bistro. Fortunately, the large brick building (the old Studebaker building for those of you who knew it then) with its imposing sign is easy to spot. Bacchus -- named after the Roman god of wine and intoxication -- offers an eclectic mix of American and Mediterranean dishes as well as a reasonably lengthy wine list.

Owners Crispin and Holly Zuback spent years reclaiming the 100-year-old building from decay, and while the story is a romantic one, the resulting space is problematic.

The entrance opens onto one large room with a bar along one wall separated from the dining area by a long brass rail. Double doors to the kitchen on the right were often propped open, offering an unplanned view into the kitchen. This view, however, isn't as distracting as the two large televisions over the bar (the sound is muted).

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Bacchus Bistro and Wine Bar

1 star = Good
Ratings explained

2104 Ardmore Blvd.
Forest Hills
412-271-3593

• Hours: Tues.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sun. (brunch 10 a.m.-3 p.m.)-9 p.m.
• Basics: Straightforward American bistro fare shares a menu with a wide range of Mediterranean-inspired dishes. Although consistency of food and service can be a problem, the overall effect is a pleasant addition to an area seriously lacking in local dining options.
• Recommended dishes: French Onion Soup, Caesar Salad, Fall Gnocchi, Pumpkin Ravioli, Crab Tart, Crab Cakes Remoulade.
• Prices: Appetizers, $6-$12; soup and salad, $5-$10; small plates, $9-$21; pasta entrees $15-$18; panini and burgers, $9-$10; dinner entrees, $16-$36.
• Summary: Handicapped-accessible, nonsmoking, parking in lot across the street, credit cards accepted, reservations suggested on weekends at peak hours; no outside wine allowed.
• Noise level: Very quiet.

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Window treatments draw the eyes to the view, which turns out to be primarily of traffic lights -- I found myself oddly mesmerized by the pattern of green, to yellow, to red.

The room's design is pleasant enough, but it looks strikingly like the lobby of a medium-scale chain hotel, with faux marbling on the walls, a brass bar and shiny wood furniture.

There is a marvelously inviting fireplace, and an attractive outdoor seating area that is probably lovely in the summer.

The menu is divided into numerous categories. You have the "Nosh Board," a variety of appetizers suitable for sharing; a lengthy list of salads, sandwiches and burgers; as well as dinner entrees, small plates, and pasta entrees. Feeling overwhelmed?

Unfortunately, consistency was a real problem, so ordering began to feel like playing a game of chance where the odds were about even.

The antipasto platter was mediocre -- the meats tasted pre-sliced and tired, and the baguette was one of the saddest examples I'd seen in a while. The Spinach and Pumpkin Seed Salad ($8) could have been fantastic -- I loved the combination of pancetta, roasted pumpkin seeds and bacon vinaigrette -- but I had to work hard to avoid thick slices of red onion and half-inch chunks of raw mushroom.

Then again, a straightforward Caesar salad was excellent. Crisp lettuce was dressed in a thick but balanced dressing rich with shaved Parmesan and rounded out with the subtle taste of anchovies.

French onion soup was also delicious. The rich, smooth broth was thick with onions caramelized to just the right texture, and well-toasted bread was topped with just the right amount of piquant gruyere.

The pastas I tried were pleasant enough. I liked Fall Gnocchi ($9), sweet potato dumplings served with pecans and cracked black pepper, though the gnocchi were on the heavy side.

Topping Pumpkin Ravioli ($9) with toasted pumpkin seeds was clever and delicious. The Crab Tart ($10) was another good small plate. A puff pastry shell filled with a steaming blend of well-seasoned lump crab and delicate mascarpone cheese was an exquisite dose of comfort on a gloomy evening.

The doneness of meat was a recurring problem. Quail ($10) was overcooked and underseasoned (Quail should always be served pink in the middle or it will inevitably be too dry to eat).

An entree of Rack of Lamb ($36), the most expensive item on the menu, was extremely fatty. Some of the silverskin -- a thin, tough membrane that covers the surface of meat -- had not been properly removed. It was served with risotto so underdone that it literally crunched between my teeth.

Pork Chop with Fig Compote ($19) was also overcooked. Though I prefer this cut medium to medium-well, even well-done pork need not be as dry and rubbery as this was. The massive heap of fig compote was a little gluey, but I did enjoy the herb mashed sweet potatoes balanced by some perfectly cooked, slightly bitter broccolini.

Given the problems in execution, I was surprised to see that the kitchen staff looked unusually relaxed. The chef frequently strolled out of the kitchen to chat with the bartender, and through the kitchen doors, I couldn't help but notice a remarkable lack of hustle.

Servers demonstrated a similar but less pervasive lack of focus. Although orders were taken, food was brought and water glasses were refilled, there were several long gaps when servers were entirely absent from the dining room.

I was pleased to learn that by the time of my second visit, the lengthy, confusing verbal dessert list had become a typed list (although for some reason, only one list was brought to our table of two).

Unfortunately, the desserts were the same, and they were far from stupendous. A caramel Apple Tart ($7) tasted extremely dry on two different occasions. A profusion of cinnamon did not help matters. Carrot Cake ($7) was fine but dull, and I found the cream cheese icing too sweet.

The coffee wasn't great, and it also wasn't hot enough. Sweeteners were on the table before the coffee, as they ought to have been; alas, this was because they were there for the entire meal (a pet peeve of mine, I'll admit). Perhaps more troubling, plastic containers of creamer were served in place of fresh milk or cream.

All of Bacchus' flaws might have been redeemed by its wine list. Until 2003, no liquor licenses were given in the area, so the addition of a reasonably priced, well-stocked wine bar would have been a tremendous addition to the neighborhood.

Unfortunately, the wine list at Bacchus is fairly dull. Although a few wine-tasting flights are on the list, there are no options for tasting pours. And the wine list lacks basic information such as the vintage date. The markups are also extremely high, often approaching and occasionally exceeding 300 percent.

Though not really a wine bar, Bacchus could be a perfectly lovely bar. It offers a few wonderful classic cocktails for very reasonable prices, such as a gimlet ($6.50) and an Old Fashioned ($6.50), as well as some unique signature drinks and "martinis" that could substitute easily for dessert. My advice? Order simple, straightforward dishes, skip dessert, and before or after your meal, ask to sip a drink by the lovely fireplace. If you find yourself out on Ardmore Boulevard some cold night, Bacchus could be your oasis from the storm.