NUREMBERG, GERMANY -- Germans don't put up their Christmas trees until Christmas Eve, but they start celebrating the season on the first weekend in Advent with Christkindl markts, or Christmas markets. On a recent visit to Germany, we visited the traditional markets in six cities. With over 2,500 markets in the country, there isn't one town or village that doesn't have at least one.

Christkindl markts host dozens of booths that are lined along closed streets. The booths vary. A street in Munich is famous for small traditional booths, decorated with pine, lights and straw, that sell mangers.

Nuremberg is famous for its Christmas Angel, who is followed by children as she walks through booths that sell equally famous gingerbread. The markt in Hamburg's Reeperbahn section has booths that are decorated with risque, naked Santas (with stars strategically placed).

But the one thing that all Christkindls have in common is great food, drinks and snacks. The smells of roasted nuts, cinnamon and sausages and, of course, the famous German gluhwein -- mulled wine -- fill the air, tempting every shopper.

The roasting nuts are perhaps the most pervasive smell as roasters stir the cinnamon- and sugar-coated almonds, pecans, walnuts and macadamias. The most traditional snack is almonds, but all boast the crunchy, sweet coating. The hot nuts are scooped into a paper cone perfect for holding while you meander through the crowds. Smaller cones sell for 3 euros (about $5), while the larger cones are 5 euros (about $8.35).

Heart-shaped gingerbread cookies are also quite popular, many hanging from the booths, wrapped and ready to go to sweethearts and small children. Sweet sayings, teddy bears, angels and holiday symbols decorate the surfaces. Some are purchased to be used as decorations; others are torn open and eaten right away.

It wouldn't be Germany if there weren't sausages. Some booths stick to one favorite such as fat, juicy bratwursts, while others have a variety -- short, thin sausages; long, thin sausages more than a foot long, and short, spicy, fat sausages.

Along with a glass of cold, German beer, the sausage makes a great meal for hungry shoppers.

Marzipan candies in every shape and size stock some booths. A popular Christmas candy is large potatoes formed out of marzipan. Marzipan fudge also is quite popular.

And it wouldn't be Christmas in Germany if there weren't Christstollen. Fat, short, spicy loaves line many of the tables. Sweet tooths also can be satisfied by spritz cookies, cinnamon stars and warm eggnog.

But perhaps the most popular Christkindl markt offering is the famous gluhwein. Smells of wine and spices fill the air in front of the booths, where folks patiently wait in line for a warm mug of it. To add to the fun, each markt has its own decorated mug so visitors can collect them. For smaller shoppers, there is also a Kindergluhwein, a warm, spiced apple drink without alcohol.

Arms heavy with nutcrackers, ornaments and empty gluhwein mugs, I left Germany, sadly. But although it would be hard to duplicate many of the sights, sounds and smells of the Christkindl markt in Pittsburgh, at least I have the gluhwein recipe.

• 1 cup sugar
• 3 cups water
• 1 lemon, sliced
• 20 whole cloves
• 6 to 8 cinnamon sticks
• 2 bottles red wine
• 1 orange, sliced for garnish

Mix sugar, water, lemon and spices and simmer for an hour. Strain.

Heat but do not boil the red wine. Add wine to hot water mixture.

Ladle into cups and serve with half a slice of orange.

-- www.germany.info