LAS VEGAS -- Traveling to Sin City to spend Christmas and New Year's Day sounds like a losing proposition. But the combination of smaller crowds, cooler weather and a surprising number of kid-friendly activities could make Las Vegas a winner of a winter vacation.

Best known as a gambling mecca, Las Vegas also prides itself on its millions of lights and miles of neon. For the holidays, they amp it up even more.

"Las Vegas lights up even brighter at Christmastime. That's our specialty," said Lisa Robinson, marketing director for the Fremont Street Experience, a five-block party in old downtown.

Sprinkled among 10 casinos/hotels are more than 75 restaurants, bars, arcades and shops. Ninety feet overhead is the ultimate big-screen TV, a 150-foot-long video canopy that offers free shows each evening with 12.5 million LEDS and 550,000 watts. There are also street entertainers and at least one band playing most of the time.

Fremont Street kicks off its holiday celebration with "Bright Lights on Ice," a show combining acrobats and skaters, including an Adagio (lifts and tricks) team from Canada. Bright Lights begins Tuesday, when Fremont Street lights its 50-foot Christmas tree, and continues through Dec. 22, with shows at 7:30, 8:30 and 9:30 p.m. Ms. Robinson said the shows are kept to about 20 minutes so visitors don't have to stand too long in evening temperatures that can drop into the 30s.

Twenty minutes is typical for Vegas' free outdoor shows, most of which continue in the winter, when daytime temperatures average in the high 50s. At Bellagio, the famous fountains perform their choreographed dance with lights and music every 15 minutes or half-hour until 8 p.m. on weekdays and midnight on weekends. The volcano at The Mirage erupts in a bright red light show every hour from 6 p.m. to midnight. But the Sirens of TI, a sexy pirate show in front of Treasure Island, closes down until Dec. 26. It's not really for youngsters anyway (unless they're old enough to appreciate buccaneers in skimpy suits).

All of the free indoor shows continue, including the tropical rainforest and white tiger habitat at the Mirage, lion habitat at MGM Grand, and the conservatory and botanical garden at Bellagio. The winter garden show, with a 45-foot-tall white Shasta fir tree, reindeer topiaries and animated penguins, is replaced by a Chinese New Year display in MID-January.

Of course, there are plenty of other kid-centered activities in and around the Strip, but they're not free. Roller coaster lovers can ride around Gotham landmarks at New York New York or get whipped around 1,000 feet over Las Vegas Boulevard by the Stratosphere.

If holiday decorations are your thing, you'll hit the jackpot in Vegas' hotels. Bellagio, Wynn and the others are dressed to the nines with real and artificial greenery, elves, Santas, angels and, of course, lights. It's all a spectacular backdrop for Americans' favorite Christmas pastime: shopping.

No mall can compare to the shops at the various casino/hotel properties on the Strip. You won't find many bargains, but if you're looking for an outrageously expensive last-minute gift for someone who needs nothing, you're in the right place. When my family visited last Easter, we were amazed to find lots of autographed Steelers' helmets, jerseys and photos for sale in sports collectible shops in the hotels. And if you really prefer malls, there are the Las Vegas Premium Outlets and Fashion Show Mall across from Wynn on the Strip.

Though Las Vegas looks like a playground, it doesn't pretend to be a family destination. Slot machines are everywhere (including the airport and every restaurant) and adults walk the streets drinking beer or colorful drinks in big glasses. Every 50 feet or so on the Strip's sidewalks, groups of men in T-shirts with phone numbers on them pass out photo cards advertising escort services. To their credit, they don't usually push them on adults with children, but many high school-age boys have a complete set of cards by the time they reach their destination.

To make sure tweens and teens don't give in to Sin City's many temptations, there is a curfew for anyone under 18. They're not allowed out on the streets without an adult after 10 p.m. weekdays and midnight on weekends. And in the casinos, kids aren't allowed near slot machines or any other gambling area -- with or without parents. Even janitors enforce the rule.

But how much can you gamble, really? Vegas is justly famous for its shows, and the vast majority are for all ages. Cirque Du Soleil, that funky circus stage production with a European accent, currently has five different shows, each at a different hotel. And there are magicians galore. Our boys (then ages 14 and 9) said Lance Burton at the Monte Carlo was the best magic show they'd every seen.

There are also musical acts for every taste. Headliners performing in December and January include Blue Man Group, Barry Manilow and Celine Dion. Older kids will be interested in Kanye West at The Palms Dec. 31 to Jan. 7. Elvis impersonators are everywhere, though most of them are more into having their picture taken than singing "Blue Christmas."

If you or your kids have always dreamed of being on a game show, get tickets for "The Price Is Right" at Bally's. You have to be 21 to go up on stage but teens and children can win other prizes or just cheer on their parents.

Las Vegas is becoming an increasingly popular place to ring in the new year, but not so much for families. New Year's Eve is the only time that Fremont Street charges admission ($60 per person, must be at least 18). The Bangles and Doobie Brothers are performing this year. The Strip, which is blocked to vehicle traffic, looks like Times Square at midnight, when fireworks are launched from the roofs of seven hotels.

Some of the best family-friendly activities are outside Vegas. Our two boys rolled their eyes when we suggested Red Rock Canyon, a state park where you can hike or drive on well-marked desert trails or climb huge rock formations. Nearly two hours later, we couldn't get the younger one off the rocks. This and many other year-round activities and tips are nicely organized in the book "Las Vegas for Dummies" (Wiley Publishing, $17).

One of the best lists of family holiday events, many of them in nearby Henderson, is at www.lasvegaskids.net/las_vegas_christmas/christmas_events.htm.

For a Hartwood Acres-type light show, check out Gift of Lights, in which motorists pass through arches made of 8 million lights in Sunset Park. Admission is $13 per vehicle, $2 off with any bag of gently used items donated to Goodwill of Southern Nevada.

Wishing for more western flavor? Try Christmas caroling on horseback or in a horse-drawn wagon at Sagebrush Ranch. A 45-minute ride followed by a country-style dinner costs $35 per person and continues through Dec. 23. After all, why should Elvis have all the fun?