Tongues were atwitter when City Councilwoman Twanda Carlisle was indicted earlier this year in an alleged kickback scheme.

But the latest revelation -- that she may have bought personal items with public funds -- has turned some observers indignant.

A laundry list of questionable purchases included eye-popping jewelry pieces and eyebrow-raising trips to Las Vegas and Aruba. But it's a mink coat that cost $4,494 that has local blogs buzzing.

Fur may be fashion's biggest political hot potato. And when it involves the heady, headline-grabbing mix of public servants, taxpayer money and a grand jury, it can become blistering hot.

Confident of a conviction in the case, prosecutors persuaded Common Pleas Judge John A. Zottola to order Ms. Carlisle to hand over the coat so that, if necessary, it can be sold and the funds used for restitution. Ms. Carlisle, who bought the coat in January 2004 from Jerome Wolk Jr. at his now-defunct Regent Square fur shop, surrendered it Thursday.

But for all the embarrassment it may have brought her, the mink coat caught up in the whirlwind of controversy shows that Ms. Carlisle -- who always dressed to the nines -- has some fashion sense to go along with her questionable ethics.

The full-length mahogany mink happens to be the most popular style and color. Its extravagant length, roll-shawl collar, turn-back cuffs and rich brown hue make it instantly recognizable and unapologetically fabulous.

Decades ago, a fur coat was the ultimate status gift for a wife, a girlfriend, a daughter coming of age. Now, more single working women than ever are buying them as a treat for themselves.

The face of fur has changed, and not just with more sophisticated faux styles. Yes, there's a burgeoning array of attractive fake-fur coats to satisfy those averse to authentic fur, but there remain many people who prefer the superior warmth and remarkable durability of the real thing.

"Fur isn't just for outerwear, either," noted Kate Lanphear, senior fashion and style editor for Elle magazine. "It appeared on many runways as the most gorgeous trim on girly, ladylike dresses."

This season, designers and manufacturers found new ways to update an old fashion statement. Key trends are unconventional combinations of fur with leather and reptile skin; fur dyed in colors ranging from hot pink and ruby red to eggplant and hunter green; sporty silhouettes such as bombers and boleros; fits ranging from tailored silhouettes to voluminous swing coats; and suave styles for men such as toggle coats, car coats and hoodies.

"Playful mixes of fur with leather and fabric this season make fur younger and more versatile," said Bobbi Queen, senior fashion editor for Womens Wear Daily.

Mink remains the most popular fur, and its price is a bellwether for the industry. Led by mink, U.S. fur industry prices peaked 20 years ago. Mr. Wolk, who now works with Ken Briskin at Briskin Furs in Aspinwall, remembers how mink glutted the market to keep pace with demand. Prices dropped and only recently have begun to climb again.

Meanwhile, innovations in fur design have resulted in more options that appeal to a wider audience. Long-hair fur has declined in popularity with the rise of sheared furs such as mink, rabbit and beaver that are much lighter in weight without sacrificing warmth.

People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, the leader in the crusade against using real fur in fashion, is quick to point out that a growing number of fashion designers and retailers are swearing off real fur. Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and Miuccia Prada have joined the no-fur-use ranks in recent years, for example, as have retailers Ann Taylor, J. Crew, Wet Seal and, most recently, Bebe -- with pressure from PETA.

But at the same time, other designers have begun using real fur. Among those who recently began turning out fur apparel and did so this season are Zac Posen, Michael Kors, Peter Som, Behnaz Sarafpour and Carmen Marc Valvo.

Fueled by the growth of the luxury goods sector, these designers are simply following the lead of American fashion titans such as Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera and global luxury giants such as Gucci, Dior, Versace, Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga.

Andreas Lenhart, chairman of the International Fur Trade Federation, said a 5.6 percent increase in global fur sales from 2005 to 2006 can be attributed to demand for luxury goods and more accessible prices.

"The really strong designer brands are uncompromising in their dedication to quality and luxury," he said. "Fur delivers on that brand promise for these design houses."

PETA is becoming more proactive about preventing the use of fur by designers, including offering a course at Parsons the New School of Design in New York. Last week, PETA spoke for one minute at a Coach shareholders meeting -- after buying stock in the company -- in an ongoing effort to get the company to stop its very limited use of fur.

More discussions with the luxury brand are planned, said Stephanie Downs, PETA's director of corporate affairs, who addressed stockholders.

"If they don't act soon," she said, "we'll probably need to take action against the company."