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Fresh Find: 'The Take-Out Menu Cookbook'
Thursday, October 25, 2007

Carla Snyder, left, and Meredith Deeds, right, are authors of "The Take-Out Menu Cookbook."

We can't get take-out delivery where we live, way down in Greene County. If I want pizza I have to ask my husband to pick one up from town: either Waynesburg, 45 minutes away, or Washington, Pa., an hour and 15 minutes away. I phone in the order, he gets the pie, and eats the first couple slices while driving home (not recommended).

The pizza gets reheated, doctored with garlic powder, oregano, crushed red pepper and Parmesan. It's often not really delicious, but it's a treat. But now armed with and inspired by the new book, "The Take-Out Menu Cookbook" by Carla Snyder and Meredith Deeds, I can spend my time making a delicious, fresh pizza, rather than waiting for the cold, over-cheesy, often soggy reality.

Thumbing through the book (Running Press, $19.95), I see I can learn to make more than Pizza Margherita (page 205). I can make Pot Stickers (page 20), or Spicy Tuna Rolls (page 226), or Taquitos (page 248), filled with chicken, beef, or carnitas (shredded pork, page 251). If I want to make myself crazy, I can make my own tortillas -- flour or corn.

In a telephone interview, co-author Carla Snyder explained why this new book will become one of your most grease-stained. Because if you make the foods you love to take out (or bring in) yourself, in your own kitchen, they'll be fresher, better, healthier, and cheaper.

"The beauty of these recipes," she said, "is that you can make food the way you want it. I love cilantro. When I make Shrimp Spring Rolls, I want more cilantro than anyone else puts in... With our recipes, you have the ability to cater to your own taste buds."

You can roam the world in "The Take-Out Menu Cookbook," reading and sampling recipes from twelve different ethnic cuisines. Yet not all of the dishes, such as Crepes Suzette or Chocolate Souffle, are what you'd expect from a menu slipped under your door or stuffed into your mailbox. When I think (dream) of take-out, it's because I want something right then. But making your own tortillas? Rolling out your own pasta dough for lasagna? It doesn't sound quick.

So, is this a book of recipes for dishes that you might order in on a cold, wintry evening or a smart collection of top international favorites? Well, it's both. As Ms. Snyder explained, it's a collection of all the ethnic food people really want to make and eat, in one volume.

Ms. Snyder and Ms. Deeds are seasoned cooking teachers. "When we write a book," Ms. Snyder said, "we don't just leave our teaching aprons at the door. We are always trying to make things more approachable and easier for the home cook. We want everyone to be able to eat the great foods that we make everyday in our own kitchens."

Some of the book's recipes, like the spring rolls that I prepared and loved, do take time. But they can be a shared, enjoyable activity. "It's wonderful to get together with friends and handle food," Ms. Snyder said.

"My family was so excited when I was testing this book," she continued. "My kids would ask, 'Where are we going for dinner tonight?' Well tonight, we're going to India, and we'll do a little bit of Mexico. For dessert, we're going to Italy. We're having gelato!"

This Saturday, the authors will be making two appearances demonstrating recipes at the Giant Eagle Market District stores. For Ms. Snyder, it's a bit of a homecoming. Raised in Weirton, W.Va., she attended Bethany College. Married right out of college, the couple moved to Washington, Pa., and now live in Hudson, Ohio.

Co-author Ms. Deeds lives in Plano, Texas, but her roots are in San Diego. Ms. Snyder told us Ms. Deeds makes great Mexican food. Sounds good. I may not attempt tortillas, but Ms. Snyder says the dough is easy to work with and it could be a group project with friends.

For tonight, I have all the ingredients for David's Tomatillo Salsa (page 241) and maybe I could serve it on Tortilla de Patata, a Spanish frittata (page 290).

First published on October 25, 2007 at 12:00 am
Miriam Rubin is a freelance food writer.
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