Josephine Baker's calling card case, a belt necklace belonging to Cole Porter's wife, Linda, and a fabulous Mauboussin cuff bracelet worn by Mae West are part of a new fashion jewelry exhibit at the Carnegie Museum of Natural History in Oakland.

"Luxe Life: Masterpieces of American Jewelry" is featured with 17 permanent exhibits in the recently installed Wertz Gallery: Gems and Jewelry in the Hillman Hall of Minerals and Gems. The special exhibit runs through Jan. 6.

The exhibit tells a visual history of America as reflected through jeweled adornment, from patriotic-inspired pieces from the mid-1800s through Hollywood-influenced items such as cigarette cases from the mid-1900s to more contemporary jewelry.

Just a few of the nearly 100 interesting pieces are a circa 1900 Statue of Liberty ornament in agate, diamonds, silver and 18-carat gold; a circa 1890 salamander pendant watch of diamonds, enamel and gold; and a bronze and diamond coral reef bracelet.

Luxe Life "sort of mirrors American history itself, our progress," said Charles Scheips, a writer and cultural historian who guest- curated the exhibit. His background is fashion photography, and he first came to Pittsburgh in 1991 as a juror for the Three Rivers Arts Festival.

"Luxe Life" is family friendly and displayed in a simple but compelling way -- primarily three large dioramas with tropical, mountain and celestial landscapes.

Visitors will see items by familiar jeweler names such as Tiffany and Cartier and works by artists such as Alexander Calder, whose brass necklace and tiara from the 1950s look rather primitive but are worth millions of dollars.

The other 17 exhibits include intriguing and sometimes breathtaking examples of diamonds, gemstones, lapidary art and birthstone gems both as rough minerals and as cut-and-polished final pieces.

Admission is $10 for adults, $7 for senior citizens and $6 for full-time students and children ages 3 through 18. Admission increases Nov. 21. Hours are generally 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays and noon to 5 p.m. Sundays. For more information, call 412-622-3131 or visit carnegiemnh.org.