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Cultural Cuisine: Downtown hot spots for dinner and a show
Thursday, September 20, 2007

At Olive or Twist, you can get a martini and Moroccan Chicken.

For patrons hoping to grab a bite to eat before or after heading to performances at Heinz Hall, the Benedum, the O'Reilly Theatre or other Cultural District venues this fall, the Post-Gazette offers a snapshot of recent reviews of several Downtown restaurants.

PALATE
212 Sixth St., 412-434-1422.
Directly across the street from the front door of Heinz Hall, this modern French gastro-bistro has created quite a stir since it opened a few months ago. It seats 66 diners in three distinct areas, with an additional 12 seats at the bar and a lounge with upholstered love seats and chairs. Executive chef Ryan Racicot is dedicated to using pure and uncomplicated flavors that come from using the finest and freshest ingredients and preparing them with respect and creativity. Diners have raved about the risotto, hanger steak, Amish chicken, sea bass and beef tenderloin tartare with grain mustard and creme fraiche. The food's presentation and the service reflect an experienced and professional waitstaff. Palate offers a fixed-price theater menu for pre-theater dining and a bar menu available from 4 to 6 p.m. and from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. The bar menu consists of many of the appetizers plus a sirloin burger, lobster BLT sandwich and a turkey, pancetta and Swiss cheese sandwich. The bar also stocks a number of microbrews and imported beers.

SONOMA GRILLE
947 Penn Ave., 412-697-1336.
Sonoma Grille is a popular Pittsburgh bistro with California cuisine and an amazing selection of 100 wines by the glass. If you're coming for a matinee, Sonoma serves its lunch menu on Sunday. Fisherman's Wharf Chowder is a fabulous and filling soup of clams, shrimp and scallops served in a round loaf of sourdough bread. Omelets come in various versions. Overall, the menu is international with California attitude. What was once considered the California approach has pretty much been adopted by the rest of our country. It centers around healthful and nutritious, or what some call "naked" food. Naked in this case means not clothed in rich and heavy sauces, thus allowing the natural flavors of the ingredients to shine. The embodiment of this philosophy is Potato Crusted Salmon served with pan-flashed ratatouille and topped with oil infused with preserved lemon, citronelle and parsley.

CAFE ZAO
Theater Square, 649 Penn Ave., 412-325-7007.
This stunning modern space offers a menu to match, serving Mediterranean cuisine with colonial Portuguese influence. Pleasing appetizers include Shrimp Timor, an eye-popping presentation that is as tasty as it is beautiful; Portuguese Cod Macau, an intriguing twist on a spring roll; and Mussels Bulhao Pato, steamed with white port, olive oil, onions and roasted garlic and dusted with minced cilantro. Entrees span most of the meat, fish and poultry categories, including Quail Portuguese, semi-boneless roasted quail served in a fig and white port sauce; Shellfish Goa, a mixture of clams, mussels, scallops, shrimp and crayfish in a mild curry sauce; and veal chop grilled with caramelized onions, sweet red peppers and oyster mushrooms in a tamarind sauce adds an exotic flavor to a popular meat choice. Desserts vary. Diners arriving prior to a show must arrive at the restaurant two hours before curtain time. The restaurant will remain open after all performances to provide after-theater meals. Reservations are essential.

OLIVE OR TWIST
140 Sixth Ave., 412-255-0525.
This martini bar and restaurant isn't a name one would associate with food, but it actually serves some good dishes. The simple menu emphasizes salads and sandwiches, but the appetizers and entrees are worthy of attention. Chicken Saute is an appetizer that could double as a light entree or an appetizer for two -- five wooden skewers of grilled chicken breast cubes are served with a delicious sesame-peanut-curry dipping sauce and fried bean-stick noodles. There's a beef tenderloin version, too. Soups, salad dressings and even ravioli are made in-house. Two that were tested proved delectable: Tomato Basil Cream, which had chewy chunks of tomato, fresh basil and a touch of cream, and French Onion Soup, topped with Gruyere cheese and baked. And the salads are available with a broad variety of meats and seafood, including Ahi tuna, grilled chicken and grilled scallops. Sandwiches include a black Angus burger, turkey wrap, classic club, crab cake and tilapia, while among the entrees, there is the Lobster Ravioli, with homemade pasta pillows stuffed with a rich blend of chopped lobster meat and ricotta cheese, and Cedar Plank Salmon, lightly roasted, leaving the fish moist and flavorful. Service can be a problem, however, particularly if it's crowded.

THE OPUS RESTAURANT
107 Sixth St., 412-992-2005.
The Opus in the Renaissance Hotel is just steps from the entrance to the Byham Theater and a short walk from other cultural venues. The Renaissance is housed in what was known as the Fulton Building when it was constructed in 1906. Today the building is a Historic Landmark and one of the architectural treasures of our Cultural District. The hotel lobby is defined by white marble walls and a double marble staircase and capped by a leaded glass dome, 30 feet in diameter. The dining room, paneled in an exotic African wood, occupies a serene spot that is separate from the lobby. It is open on Sundays for breakfast, lunch or brunch buffet before the matinee or dinner after the performance. Breakfast and lunch entrees are available a la carte. The brunch buffet features made-to-order omelets, waffles, three entrees, a carving station serving prime rib and an assortment of salads and desserts. The normal a la carte luncheon menu features the likes of Crab and Shrimp Cakes, Cobb Salad with Grilled Chicken and Salmon crusted with black sesame seeds and served with saffron risotto.

CHRISTOS MEDITERRANEAN GRILL
130 Sixth St., 412-261-6442.
Just across the street from Heinz Hall and the Byham on Sixth Street is Christos Mediterranean Grill, serving Greek cuisine. Owner Christos Melacrinos is always present in this small, family-run establishment, where a loyal band of diners come on a regular basis for such specialities as stuffed peppers, baked eggplant, spanakopita or lamb kebabs. Most dinners are less than $11. Many are vegetarian and some are vegan. The appetizers are authentic, delicious and healthy. Taramosalata, a tart paste with a silky texture made of carp roe, olive oil and lemon juice is a special treat. Other mezze are stuffed grape leaves, hummus, tabouleh and baba ghanouj. They are served with warm wedges of fresh pita bread. Penerli (Greek pizza) would make a suitable vegetarian meal. The pita bread base is baked with slices of fresh tomatoes, feta and herbs. Soups here are homemade and very tasty. Avegolelmono stands out. This hearty chicken rice soup seasoned with lemon juice is the Greek equivalent of your grandmother's cold remedy. Desserts at Christos are also homemade. Onassis Dessert, a simple cake soaked in honey syrup and topped with egg custard and whipped cream, is an example of the unusual treats on the menu. Christos is BYOB. There is no charge for corkage.

First published on September 20, 2007 at 12:00 am