NEW YORK -- There are those who will rationalize what they see on the fashion runway -- perhaps even reading into it some sort of creative genius -- to understand what may be pointless if not incomprehensible.

In fact, even before they slowly were herded out of the New York State Armory in Manhattan, many of the more than 1,000 spectators of Marc Jacobs' spring womenswear collection were singing his praises.

It's irrelevant that the 13-minute fashion show began more than two hours late. Jacobs is notorious for disrespecting the time of his guests -- you may as well relax and enjoy the flashbulb-bathed entrance of celebrities such as Victoria Beckham, Sheryl Crow, Russell Simmons and Tyson Beckford.

But had the 56 women's ensembles he unveiled late Monday night during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week been worth waiting for, you would be reading a different story.

Instead, the news to report is that the emperor, at least for now, is not wearing clothes. America's anointed fashion prince has a drastically different look -- rumors are circulating about post-drug rehab physical augmentation -- but in the metaphorical sense, Jacobs stood before us stark naked.

Notwithstanding his immense popularity, the line was largely a disaster. It consisted primarily of dresses and other pieces left unfinished, which he described, for example, as "two thirds of a satin gown" or "one-third 3-D embroidered dress." Most frocks were constructed to reveal bras and panties beneath; some pieces he described as reconstructed, solarized, dripping.

Then there were the shoes, many of which he named "too small" and designed to appear that way. Some even appeared to have the heels turned sideways.

Among the dreck were some chic pumps and a few lovely and wearable garments: a chiffon tweed cape suit and cardigan, a black shantung suit, a lovely colorblocked silk shantung skirt. In fact, in his colorblocked pieces, use of sequins and pale brown colorations were in sync with what other designers have shown for spring.

The bangles, brooches and other jewelry featured interesting design, particularly pieces that incorporated a swan -- perhaps a hint that between now and spring, the ugly duckling of a collection will morph into something graceful and beautiful.

Joanna Mastroianni

Here was a truly inspired collection that translated into pretty and practical pieces for any wardrobe. It sprang from the designer's imagination when a dragonfly, which she praised as a "powerful creature" of "exquisite beauty," flew through her studio window on a rainy day and landed on her hand. And so what Mastroianni wrought as a result of that occurrence is a line of colorful and ethereal daywear, dresses and gowns that evoke images of human dragonflies. There was a dreamy turquoise organza opera coat over a sleeveless white chiffon minidress with turquoise-embroidered stripes; a luscious periwinkle-and-white pinwheel embroidered evening dress with a sweeping train and corset-laced back; a black coin-dotted, tank-top evening dress with a full organza overskirt; and a green embroidered sleeveless sheath with a scalloped hem and lovely pearls adorning the square neckline.

Carmen Marc Valvo

As an artist whose medium is fabric, Valvo turned inspiration from seashells into a master class on womenswear. The seductive spirals, ripples and soft colors of shells translated beautifully into fresh and imaginative takes on cocktail dresses, gowns and evening separates in silk satin, organza, chiffon and metallic lace in hues of coral, oyster, chocolate and navy.

The structure of mariner-inspired jackets and pants were paired with soft, fluid pieces such as a pleated silk tulle tiered gown, a ruffled blouse and a pleated and tiered black metallic lace skirt. Valvo's newest line of swimwear in vivid colors and prints looked sophisticated worn with pieces such as a navy-striped silk chiffon tunic and a feather-light silk organza trench coat in oyster. The theme carried over into evening dresses, Valvo's forte, and the reason women ranging from Eva Longoria to Queen Latifah seek him out. They'll be pleased with his latest crop of red-carpet-ready frocks, from an open-back, pleated and tiered silver sand metallic lace gown to a strapless, dramatically ruffled coral silk gazar gown.

Marc Bouwer

Among Bouwer's sunny spring offerings were a suite of hot T-shirt mini shifts, divalicious tent dresses perfect for a garden party and demure (but not prudish) swimsuits with some sexy one-pieces reminiscent of what Marilyn Monroe wore. Several bold cocoon dresses -- a purple caped one, a green cowl-sleeved one, a turquoise high-necked one -- in jersey fabrications were chic, comfortable ways to hide winter weight gain. They resembled togas hiked up around the knees for a quick sprint. Although a few of the longer print dresses were a little too Helen Roper, there was much to appreciate: a curve-caressing, floor-skimming geometrical floral dress; a sparkling black-and-white racer-stripe strapless cocktail dress; a shiny "moon glow" mini T-shirt shift with large paillettes over a marbled print in black, blue and white; and a show-stopping satin and chiffon turquoise "goddess gown" with a matching shredded capelet.

Monique Lhuillier

Corsetry and high, accented waists are major trends for spring womenswear, and Lhuillier's take on them was characteristically soft and feminine with an eye toward detail. Her color choices of latte, vanilla, mint, pistachio and butterscotch came to her, she said, as she ate a box of her favorite macaroons. By adding creative draping and luxurious embroidery to organzas, chiffons and silk tulles, she came up with flattering new takes on special looks. Among these were a mist gray crinkled halter blouse with exaggerated ruffles over a gray-and-white polka dot draped taffeta slim skirt and a butter gold metallic tweed draped shawl collar jacket with matching pencil skirt and creme jacquard layered organza V-neck halter blouse with the same ruffle treatment.