QUICK-ROASTED PLUM TOMATOES WITH GOAT CHEESE

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Substitute feta for goat cheese, if you prefer, or omit for a plainer dish. This is good made with winter tomatoes but best at tomato-glut time.

• 6 large plum tomatoes (about 1 pound), cut lengthwise in half
• 2 pinches sugar
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 12 paper-thin slices garlic
• 1/2 small log fresh goat cheese (about 2 ounces), crumbled
• 12 small basil leaves or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

Preheat oven to 400. Place tomatoes cut side up in roasting pan or on rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with a little sugar; season with salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle with oil. Place a slice of garlic on each.

Roast 20 to 25 minutes, until tomatoes are soft, puffed and tender.

Sprinkle with goat cheese. Top each with a basil leaf or some oregano.

Serves 4.

-- Miriam Rubin

TOMATO-CUCUMBER REFRESHER

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My Chicago friend, caterer and food writer Nancy Backas, and her fiance visited this summer. We enjoyed this cooling soup/drink on a steamy-hot day. It's based on a recipe from Madhur Jaffrey's "World Vegetarian."

-- Miriam Rubin

• 4 large tomatoes (3 pounds)
• 2 cups thickly sliced peeled cucumber
• 4 teaspoons ground cumin
• 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional

Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. One at a time, add tomatoes and cook 15 to 30 seconds to loosen skins. Cool, then core, peel and cut into wedges.

In batches, process tomatoes and cucumber in a blender until smooth. Press through a fine-mesh strainer into a large pitcher or bowl.

In a small skillet, over medium-low heat, cook and stir cumin 4 to 5 minutes, until fragrant and darker in color.

Immediately add cumin to tomato mixture. Stir in lemon juice, sugar, salt and cayenne, if using. Taste, adding more of what you want. Cover and chill at least 1 hour.

Serve in cups over ice.

Serves 4 to 6.

-- adapted from "World Vegetarian" by Madhur Jaffrey