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Munch goes to Royal Caribbean
Thursday, September 06, 2007

Despite the title of this week's installment, rest assured that Munch has not taken to reviewing the buffets of cruise ships. Nor will Munch don a sarong and belt out "If you could see me now" a la Kathie Lee Gifford while playing shuffleboard.

You have to pay extra for that.

But Munch will tell you about possibly the only block in this city's history that has an Ethiopian and a Caribbean restaurant side-by-side. Many have become familiar with Abay, a favorite among local chowhounds for its North African cuisine. But its next-door neighbor since early this year is Royal Caribbean, run by an emigre from Jamaica.

The small but cozy interior has walls painted in warm hues of red and orange and smooth reggae -- what else? -- on the sound system.

Island staples such as Curried Goat ($11), Ox Tails ($10.50), and Escovitch Fish -- a vinegar-pickled fish with garlic, thyme and pimento seeds -- are all on the menu, as are Curried Chicken ($9.25), Shrimp ($13.25) and Tofu ($8.50).

Steamed and stewed fish are available, and the diner can choose between tilapia and red snapper. One dish is served with something called "Bammy," but Munch couldn't get a definitive answer on what it was.

The signature dish is, of course, Jerk Chicken ($11.50), which the menu says is a method of grilling that dates back to the Arawak Indians, the original tribal inhabitants of Jamaica.

Munch munched on an order of Fried Ripe Plaintain ($2.99), a delicious mixture of salty and sweet, and the Seafood Fritters ($4.50) -- a breaded and fried mound of baby shrimp, scallops and whitefish -- complemented with a spicy Cajun mayonnaise called remoulade.

The Jerk Chicken was excellent -- hot enough to make eyes water, but flavorful enough that Munch forgot about the sweat coming out of Munch's ears. The jerk dishes are served with a slice of mango, a tasty salve for a burned tongue.

Royal Caribbean is BYOB, and a group near Munch reminisced over their island vacation over a bottle of top-shelf rum, though Munch preferred a bottle of Penn Weizen to take away the heat of the jerk seasoning. Service was friendly and generally prompt.

Development barons are trying to re-brand the area between the Whole Foods and the intersection of South Highland and Centre Avenues as East Side, but it will always be Eas'Lib(-erty) to Munch. But between the steady-but-sure real estate development and the emergence of more art galleries and eating and drinking establishments -- like Royal Caribbean -- Munch is pretty sure that this corner of town hasn't been this lively since Joe Louis was fighting at Motor Square Garden.

And damn sure this is the first block in the city's history to have an African and Caribbean restaurant side-by-side. And that's a good thing.

Royal Caribbean is located at 128 S. Highland Ave., East Liberty. Call 412-362-1861.



First published on September 6, 2007 at 12:00 am