Inspired by country cooking in Italy and France, Legume is the first venture by husband-and-wife team Trevett and Sarah Hooper, and they have made quite a debut. The bistro is small -- it seats only 30 -- but it makes a big impression. Natural light pours through the windows, illuminating the charming, eclectic dining room. Cream-yellow walls are offset by woodcuts of fruits and vegetables and nature drawings of fish. Roughly 10 mismatched tables line the walls in neat rows. And gleaming glasses at the service station are transformed into objets d'art, set against a robin's egg-blue background.

This latest Regent Square restaurant was relatively empty when we arrived, but not for long. Soon after we were seated, the neighborhood arrived. The room quickly filled with a picturesque assortment of old and young, extended families and groups of friends, even a young couple with twin infants sleeping in a double-stroller.

Legume's menu is small, but the choices are so tempting that it can still be difficult to make up one's mind. It changes daily and an effort is made to highlight local and seasonal produce and meats. Diners accustomed to large portions might experience some shock, but there is no attempt to make portions seem larger with gargantuan piles of inexpensive sides. The plates are small, but the food here is so good you are really going to want to order three courses.

The Goat Cheese and Leek Tart ($8) is served steaming hot, with just the right ratio of goat cheese to leeks. It came with a room-temperature bulgur and chickpea salad that was surprisingly elegant. When cooked properly, as this was, bulgur is nutty and flavorful. It appeared the chickpeas were made from dry beans, not from a can -- a detail I especially appreciate because I simply cannot be bothered to go to the trouble at home.

The unusual pairing in the Chilled Tomato and Watermelon Soup with Creme Fraiche ($6) proved to be inspired. The soup was luscious and refreshing, the perfect first course on a hot August evening. Sweetbreads with Kale, Potatoes and Sherry ($8) seemed a little less seasonally appropriate, but as soon as I took a bite I no longer cared. Sweetbreads are difficult to prepare properly, but these were a marvel -- sweet and tender with a delicious golden crust, they practically melted in my mouth.

On my first visit, all of the entrees sounded appealing, but when I saw the Black Pearl Pork Chop with Rhubarb Compote ($20) approach our table, it was love at first sight. A beautiful, plump, juicy pork chop was perched atop a swirl of whipped potatoes that had been browned in the oven. It was accompanied by a generous heap of pinky-red rhubarb compote and a few artfully placed green beans and asparagus spears. Unfortunately, the pork chop had not rested properly, and the juices poured out as soon as I cut into the meat. (When meat rests, the juices that have been drawn to the surface during cooking redistribute throughout the meat, leaving it moist and flavorful). Still, it was cooked to a nice medium-well, and the rhubarb compote was heavenly.

The Hudson Valley Muscovy Duck Leg Confit ($18) was opulent without overdoing it. A tangy bed of lentils and roasted beets nicely balanced the richness of the duck. The Oven Baked Penne ($16), which is suitable for vegetarians, had a lovely brown crumb crust on top that I was dying to dig into. Alas, it was my neighbor's entree, and despite the friendly atmosphere, I thought it best to restrain myself.

The Escolar ($22) was served on an elegantly arranged bed of potato, hard-boiled egg, and green beans -- a subtle homage to a Salade Nicoise. Don't overlook well-executed classics such as Hanger Steak with Parsley Butter ($19) or Chicken Under a Skillet ($19), a revered Italian preparation also known as "Chicken al Mattone," or "Chicken Under a Brick."

When it comes time for dessert, you'll be thankful for the restrained portions. Legume's dessert offerings, though few, are stunning. Prepare to swoon over Rhubarb, Mango, Nectarine and Strawberry Crisp ($7), with an impressively crunchy topping and just the right combination of tangy and sweet fruits. For those with small appetites for sweets, this dessert would have been large enough to share. The list often contains Panna Cotta -- an Italian dessert of cooked cream set with gelatin. I loved both a classic version topped with small chunks of pineapple coated in a layer of a caramel sauce, and a variation made from Goat's Milk Yogurt garnished with fresh elderberries. My absolute favorite was the Chocolate Truffle Cake with Whipped Cream ($7), which is so delicious your companions will be lucky if you sacrifice even a bite.

Chef Trevett's food is prepared with an impressive attention to detail. On our first visit, the service -- while friendly, genuine and certainly enthusiastic -- needed more oversight. Servers couldn't answer some obvious questions about the menu, and the cozy atmosphere was punctuated by a cacophony of dropped silverware as servers cleared tables. Happily, many of these issues have disappeared in the first few months of business. Servers now knowledgeably point out local items, and they are always happy to bring back an answer to more obscure questions inspired by the exciting and authentic menu.

Legume is BYOB with a $3 corkage fee. It also offers an exceptional array of nonalcoholic drinks, including a variety of Italian sodas featuring sparkling water from the Pittsburgh Seltzer Co. The Fizzy Lemonade Service ($3.50), which allows you to make your own lemonade with fresh squeezed lemon juice, superfine sugar and sparkling water, reminded me of afternoons spent in Parisian cafes and made me want to clap my hands with glee (though I'm not sure I'd want to drink it with dinner). Coffee is organic and fair trade and is served in French presses (small, $3; large, $5).

Legume is an exquisite addition to Regent Square and to Pittsburgh. Bring your appetite, a good companion and a bottle of wine, and Trevett and Sarah Hooper will provide the rest.