One hundred and five days and 40 ports around the world -- from Fort Lauderdale to Fort Lauderdale going west.

That was our cruise that departed in January on Holland America's beautiful MS Amsterdam. We cruised through the Panama Canal, around the West Coast of South America to Easter Island, Australia, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Hong Kong, up through India and Egypt, Israel, Turkey, the Mediterranean countries and back across the Atlantic.

We lost a day at the International Date Line, but gained 24 welcome hours of extra sleep in compensation.

The thought of 40 ports in 105 days was intimidating. I confess that even as a seasoned traveler, I'm still squeamish about health, safety and comfort issues in Third World countries. Yes, I lost some sleep over this. And in Bali and Mumbai, for example, some caution might be justified. Looking back, however, the anxieties were far outweighed by the adventure.

The highlights? Exotic faraway places and great modern cities. In the former group is Easter Island, quite unlike anyplace else on Earth; Noumea (New Caledonia), a picture-postcard blend of island primitivism and Gallic urbanity; the ruins of Ephesus (Turkey), where one can walk as the ancients did on the very same stones.

Among the cities, Sydney is incomparable -- all of Australia striking me as one of the most livable places left in the world. Hong Kong gratified my consumer urges, while Dubai had me agape over its unashamed worship of wealth and celebrity. Quite the opposite was exquisite Dubrovnik, up-to-date yet brimming with Old World charm.

Our Holland American fare, for an outside room (but not a balcony or a suite), was approximately $25,000 per person for the 105 days for double occupancy. This figure includes pre-paid gratuities plus luggage pick-up and delivery, but not miscellaneous taxes, travel insurance, alcoholic beverages on board, Holland America excursions, private guides or side trips.

First stop

We were fascinated by the century-old technology of the Panama Canal. The system of locks to compensate for the mountainous territory remains a marvel today. A few days later we crossed the equator, an event celebrated on various ships in various ways. On Holland America cruises, they have a raucous Neptune ceremony at the pool, which includes submerging some crew along with willing passengers as a rite of passage. That night, passengers find a diploma in the cabin certifying that they have crossed the equator.

Our cruise included a stop on Manta, Ecuador (which is on the equator), which served as a springboard for an optional side trip to Machu Picchu. We opted out of the visit, however, because the pre-Columbian Inca city is located at very high altitude and the thin air can be risky for older people. We didn't want to take the chance.

On to Lima

Next was Lima, Peru -- a vibrant city with fine shops, some of the best seafood in the world and the Incan ruins of Pachacamac. Though we encountered no trouble, Lima is known to be dangerous.

In Rapa Nui, known as Easter Island -- part of Chile, but one of the most isolated places on Earth -- we hired our own guide, a knowledgeable American woman who had gone back to be near her Rapa Nui mother. The island is known for the mysterious giant statues known as Moai.

From there to South Sea islands: the delightful Bora Bora, where we used our faltering French to translate for fellow tourists in a shared taxi; Tahiti, where we were disappointed to find that the Gaughin Museum contains none of the artist's originals. The best of the French island territories was New Caledonia, its capital Numea, a delightful, sophisticated resort town, with the Tjibaou Cultural Center, a superb creation of architect Renzo Piano showcasing traditional Melanesian artifacts.

We were dismayed to find that American Samoa offered less of interest than the Independent State of Samoa, which we had visited a year earlier, but had some ghoulish fun in Fiji, shopping for the beautifully crafted cannibal forks -- reproductions, I hasten to add! -- that were once a part of that country's culture.

We spent two fast-flying days in Sydney, landing in front of its spectacular opera house, which was offering "Sweeney Todd." With time at a premium, we opted for museums containing aboriginal art, ethnic neighborhoods with excellent restaurants and the bustling modern downtown.

Cairns two days later brought rain, and cancellation of a glass-bottom boat trip at the Great Barrier reef; Darwin -- in Australia's Northern territories -- boasted galleries in which I was able to purchase an authentically painted Didgeridoo, the fascinating bassoon-like folk instrument, which I confess I cannot play.

Next was Bali, which, for all its reputation, has never been a personal favorite. The vendors are the most aggressive and personally intrusive I've encountered anywhere, and luxury resorts are secluded in a gated community that has little to do with the rest of the island. Still, the crafts are splendid, and we came home with intricate sandalwood sculptures and leather shadow puppets.

Continuing in Indonesia, we took the ship's full-day bus trip from Semarang to the huge, magnificently restored Buddhist temple complex of Borobudor -- discovered in the 19th century by the owner of Singapore's famous Raffles Hotel.

Retail therapy

Three days in Hong Kong accommodated shoppers in need of retail therapy. Bargains aren't what they once were, but tailors will fit you up for a suit or dress and have it ready the next day.

In sharp contrast was the quiet poverty of Vietnam, though its economy had improved since our previous visit in 1999. It's a three-hour drive (by excursion bus or private taxi) from the port of Vung Tau to Ho Chi Min City, and schedules are not always exact, so allow time to return if you go on your own.

Back to blatant capitalism in Singapore. This strict dictatorship is deceptively pleasant for tourists and easy to get around. Here are bargains no longer found in Hong Kong.

India included a three-day stay in Mumbai, allowing excursions to the Taj Mahal. It's a three-hour flight to Delhi followed by a five-hour drive to Agra, but the sight is what legends are made of. Mumbai was crowded and poor yet filled with new construction and the latest technology. Two sea days separated India from our arrival in super-wealthy Dubai, where the ship's excursion for afternoon tea at the seven-star Burj Al-Arab Hotel -- shaped like a giant sail -- will run you $200 per person. The malls are similarly unaffordable, but it's a life experience to window-shop through them.

We left the ship for 10 days to do an extensive Egyptian tour, which we had arranged in advance -- including private guides and transportation, plus a Nile cruise.

Crowded Jerusalem

Our day to see Jerusalem coincided with Passover and Holy Thursday, the city so crowded that many sights had to be relinquished. Haifa (on Good Friday) was quiet, but a taxi ride allowed us to see the city's highlights, at least from the outside. We landed in Kusadasi, Turkey, on Easter Sunday, but because that country is not predominantly Christian, Easter did not preclude a visit to magnificent Ephesus, one of the best preserved and restored cities of the ancient Roman empire. The timing did hamper our day in Athens (a short train ride from the port of Piraeus). On Easter Monday, everything was closed except for tourist shops and restaurants in the Plaka area.

Beautiful Dubrovnik

Our next stop, Dubrovnik, was an unexpected delight. This gorgeous city has been beautifully rebuilt after the war in Croatia. We enjoyed a wonderful seafood lunch and took in the history and the shops. In place of Casablanca, an unscheduled stop in Gibraltar was announced, but storms prevented the ship from docking. We arrived at Funchal, Madeira, a day early, then made an unplanned but very pleasant stop -- lovely Punta Delgada, in the Azores -- before crossing the Atlantic to New York and finally full circle to Fort Lauderdale.

Our only regrets were that the stops were too short. But then, there is always the next cruise. ...