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On the menu: More gluten-free and other special diet items
Thursday, July 19, 2007
Some patrons ordering the Filet Mignon Salad at the Double Wide Grill on the South Side have been stumped by a label next to the item on the menu: (WF)

Does that mean it's available only Wednesdays and Fridays, one customer asked?

Actually, it means wheat-free, and it's a designation that's becoming more and more common on menus here and across the country as restaurants become aware of the special dietary needs of their patrons.

In addition to many wheat-free items at the Double Wide, you'll also find dishes for vegetarians (V) and vegans (VE).

Not only are these menu offerings making patrons happier, it's helping restaurants with the bottom line as it turns them into destination places for the ever-increasing numbers of people with special diets.

Take Bravo! Cucina Italiana in Mt. Lebanon, for instance. It's become one of the more popular go-to places for the 1,000 members of the Greater Pittsburgh Celiac Sprue Support Group and others who suffer from the chronic digestive disorder that involves gluten-containing grains -- wheat, rye, oats and barley -- found in breads, cereals, beer and other foods.

The location, which, along with some other restaurants in the chain that has offered gluten-free pasta, recently rolled out a gluten-free pizza that is drawing raves.

"They're fabulous," said Mary Neville of Upper St. Clair, president of the local celiac support group.

Eat'n Park in May introduced a gluten-free section on its printed menus (it already had been available online) to add to its low-carb, Eat'n Smart and senior selections.

Others, such as the Stone Mansion Restaurant in Franklin Park, include notes on their menus that say: "Guests with food allergies or dietary needs can be accommodated."

While the National Restaurant Association doesn't track these menu trends, eateries are working hard to meet customers' needs, said Annika Stensson, manager of media relations. "Restaurants are in the hospitality business and want to be as accommodating as they can be," she said, noting that nearly 48 percent of a person's food budget today is spent in restaurants, compared with 25 percent in 1955.

Labeling menu items low carb or low fat has been the norm for years. But adding dishes tailored to a specific condition is relatively new. In the case of celiac disease, which many Americans had not even heard of five years ago, this has greatly widened awareness.

"We've been working long and hard to get this to happen," said Ms. Neville, who has suffered from celiac disease for more than 30 years and credits grass-roots campaigns for promoting the change.

Roughly one in every 133 Americans, or about 3 million people, are affected by the inherited condition. With this disease, which is not an allergy, the gluten proteins in wheat and other grains destroy the nutrient-absorbing lining of the small intestine.

Nationally, Outback Steakhouse and PF Chang's China Bistro are pioneers in gluten-free menus, an idea pushed by Seattle's Cynthia Kupper, a registered dietician with the Gluten Intolerance Group.

PF Chang's, which has 159 restaurants including one in West Homestead, introduced its gluten-free menu about eight years ago and has developed eight other specialty menus.

They address allergies to corn, egg, legumes, sesame seeds, sulfites, milk, shellfish and nuts, said Jason Miller, communications manager for the Scottsdale, Ariz. company. It soon will introduce a menu for peanut allergies and one for other nut allergies. And the waitstaff has been trained on dietary restrictions.

Mr. Miller said the need for specialized dishes "has really gained a lot of national spotlight in the last couple of years."

Mitchell's Fish Market, another chain with a restaurant at The Waterfront, also worked with Ms. Kupper to develop its extensive gluten-free menu, which includes beer.

Years ago, the Pittsburgh celiac group would arrange restaurant outings for 30 to 60 people and meet with staff beforehand to explain the diet restrictions. "We'd sit with the restaurant chef or manager for hours," Ms. Neville said.

Janet Smarra, a general manager of Bravo! at its Cranberry location, took special interest in the group's cause and developed the tasty gluten-free pasta dishes. When she moved to the Mt. Lebanon Galleria location, she introduced the pizza.

"A lot of people with celiac disease had never had pizza before," said Lauren Bloomburg, assistant general manager at the Galleria's Bravo! "They absolutely love it."

Ms. Neville's group also has worked with Eat'n Park, which she said faced huge challenges in making the changes while keeping dishes affordable. Instead of using flour to thicken sauces, for example, cooks might substitute arrowroot or rice flour.

At Eat'n Park, the menu changes are part of a larger program that includes analysis by Penn State scientists to identify all allergens in its dishes, said Kevin O'Connell, senior vice president of marketing.

The company also is removing all MSG, enhancing training of staff and improving kitchen procedures to prevent cross contamination, he said. "Our goal is to say ultimately, 'If you have this allergen, here's all the menu items you can have without worrying about it.' "

Despite the advances, Ms. Neville cautions group members and anyone with allergy issues to be vigilant and realistic.

"Even though the menu says it's gluten-free, the server may have been hired a week ago and picked up the wrong thing," she said. Also, if you have special needs, call ahead.

"I think we've come a long way," she said. "We appreciate any restaurant that will step out and mark a menu gluten-free, realizing how hard it is."

First published on July 18, 2007 at 4:51 pm
Virginia Linn can be reached at 412-263-1662 or at vlinn@post-gazette.com.
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