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Munch goes to Tango Cafe
Thursday, July 05, 2007

Sometimes, when the weather is impossibly perfect as it was last weekend, Munch gets uneasy. Munch loves summer with a passion generally reserved only for ice cream with raspberries, but knows deep down that such weather can only last so long. So Munch starts to think about winter, about slippery sidewalks and frigid feet and eczema on the elbows, and Munch gets sad.

And thus, even though it was the brightest, sunniest, most wonderful of weekends, Munch needed a pick-me-up.

Dessert is a reliable remedy for turning Munch's frown upside-down, so Munch rounded up Dear One of Munch (DOOM) and Pregnant Friend of Munch (PFOM) for a last-minute trip to Tango Cafe, an Argentinian coffeehouse in Squirrel Hill where Munch had previously spotted pictures of delicious concoctions in the window.

It's possible to sit outside at Tango Cafe and would have been lovely to do so on such a summer's day, but for the crush of traffic on Forward Avenue, caused by the closure of the Squirrel Hill Tunnel. Simply walking into the cafe, Munch learned that panic-stricken motorists are not shy about yelling out to pedestrians to ask for directions.

So Munch and the gang headed indoors, to the small, brightly lit room decorated with cubist paintings of tango dancers and pictures of Mendoza, Argentina -- home of owner Liliana Petruy, who opened Tango Cafe in 2003.

PFOM, a former Spanish teacher, told Munch that Tango Cafe is known for hosting Spanish conversation groups. Indeed it does, as well as classes, and the place has something of the Spanish variety scheduled nearly every weeknight (a schedule of classes is online at www.tangocafepgh.com).

Munch has trouble with languages, but Munch has no trouble with eating. So once inside, Munch quickly abandoned any pretense of just getting dessert and ordered a chicken sandwich ($6.65) instead. PFOM followed suit, ordering a provolone sandwich ($4.99).

But DOOM was stumped. DOOM had spotted the list of empanadas, small stuffed pastries that would cap off many an inebriated evening when DOOM worked in Washington, D.C. Perhaps DOOM wanted a beef empanada with a sandwich? Or perhaps all three of the empanadas offered -- beef, spinach and sweet corn ($2 each). But would just empanadas be enough for lunch? DOOM added the Tango Carrot Salad and subtracted the sandwich.

And a fine decision it was. Frankly, Munch's and PFOM's sandwiches were just so-so. While the homemade bread was crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, Munch's chicken was bland and dry. PFOM's oregano-seasoned provolone was slightly better, but still not worth making a return visit for.

But the empanadas were, shall we say, a revelation. The dough was both chewy and flaky, the fillings perfectly seasoned. Munch was pondering which one was the absolute best when DOOM snatched the last of the spinach empanada. Darn that DOOM!

Not yet satiated, Munch wandered over to the glass display case full of desserts. It was at this point that Munch grew anxious. Overwhelmed with choices -- the alfajores (dulce de leche smeared in between two cookies), the flan (custard drenched in caramel), the turron (chocolate-oat square) -- Munch nearly started to hyperventilate (luckily, Munch always has a paper bag handy).

But don't cry for Munch, Argentina. The truth is that thanks to Munch's willing culinary compadres, Munch was able to try all three. The flan was creamy, the alfajores buttery and the turron surprisingly rich. Munch thought about getting some alfajores to go, but then would have had to get empanadas, too, probably a dozen of them (a bargain at $22). So Munch called it an afternoon.

When the weather does turn wicked, though, Munch will return. Munch likes exotic-sounding hot drinks and is eager to sample the cortado or mate cocido or tango submarino from the drink menu as long as Munch's arm. Plus, Munch thinks desserts go well with hot drinks. And empanadas too.

Suddenly, Munch can't wait for winter.

Tango Cafe is at 5806 Forward Ave. in Squirrel Hill, 412-421-1390. No credit cards accepted.

First published on July 4, 2007 at 9:54 am
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