When I was a kid, I took desserts for granted. Homemade pies, three-layer cakes, home-churned ice cream and hand-size cookies were no big deal. My mother was an everyday baker, just like most of the women of her generation. Cooking and baking were part of the job description of the stay-at-home wife.

It's funny, then, that the dessert I found exotic was a "back-of-the-box" creation: Nabisco's Famous Chocolate Refrigerator Roll. You know the one I mean. The cake that's nothing more than grocery-bought chocolate wafer cookies sandwiched with whipped cream.

When the cookies and cream are alternately layered in a sideways stack, or roll, and chilled for a time, the cookies absorb some of the whipped cream and become soft and cake-like. Sliced on the bias, the "roll" reveals a decorative, zebra-striped oval. When you place a slice on a pretty plate with a few berries, the dessert is good enough for guests. Mum sometimes made this for company because, well, who would want just a plain old homemade pie?

I still make the original cake every now and then, especially when children will be at the table.

The upside: The cake is a no-bake, no-brainer, make-ahead version of everybody's favorite consolation snack, cookies and milk.

The downside: The 9-ounce boxes of Famous Chocolate Wafers aren't available in all areas or in all stores. And you can never find them when you need them. So any time I run across them, usually on a top shelf in a big supermarket, I buy three or four boxes to stash in the pantry. They never go bad, and I think the use-by date is probably 10 years from now.

With the inspiration of magazine recipes over the years, I've played around with the shape and end use of the cookies and cream formula. Here are some of the versions I've had fun with.

Cooking-for-One Icebox Cakelette. All you do is make a vertical stack of five cookies, with whipped cream between them and some berries in a middle layer. Gourmet Magazine gave these directions: Beat 1/3 cup cream with 1/2 teaspoon sugar and a few drops of vanilla until it holds stiff peaks. Spread 1 heaping teaspoon cream onto each of four wafers. On 1 cream-topped wafer, arrange raspberries or cut strawberries side by side and as close as possible to form an even layer. (This will form the inner surprise layer of the tiny cake.) Now stack 2 cream-topped wafers on a plate (cream sides up) and top with the berry wafer. Then carefully spread another teaspoon of cream over and between the berries. Top with the last cream wafer, and cover the cream with the remaining plain wafer. Frost top and sides of the mini-cake with remaining cream. Refrigerate at least 4 hours. Cover the cake with an inverted bowl to keep it from picking up fridge odors. Plastic wrap would mess up the cream.

Chocolate Orange Cookie Stacks: Bon Appetit got into the act with this version. Just layer orange-flavored whipped cream between cookie wafers and let the stacks rest until serving time. For 8 stacks or servings, whip 1 cup chilled heavy cream. Whip in 1/4 cup sugar and 1/2 cup frozen orange juice concentrate, partially thawed, until stiff peaks form. Place 8 cookies on a rimmed baking sheet. Spoon about 1 level tablespoon orange whipped cream on each cookie. Repeat until you have 8 stacks of 4 cookies and 4 layers of whipped cream. Top each stack with a fifth cookie. Cover with plastic wrap, and chill the stacks at least 6 hours of overnight. Cookies will soften. Transfer remaining cream to a small bowl. When ready to serve, transfer the stacks to dessert plates. Re-whisk the remaining cream. Spoon a dollop of orange cream atop each stack, sprinkle with grated orange zest and serve.

Chocolate Wafer Crumb Crust. Crush 30 chocolate wafers (about two-thirds box). In a big bowl, combine them with 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar, 1 tablespoon flour and a big pinch of salt. Drizzle in 1/4 cup ( 1/2 stick) melted butter and toss with a fork, then rub with your hands to blend. If the mixture is too gritty, add 1/2 teaspoon water. Press the crumbs into a pie plate and refrigerate for 10 minutes. Then bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 6 minutes. Cool on a rack. To make an ice cream pie, fill with ice cream and freeze. Butterscotch or coconut pudding topped with whipped cream is good too.

Faux-Reos. My all-time favorite Famous Chocolate Wafer un-recipe is fake Oreos, or faux-reos. Depending on what's on hand, I sandwich the wafers with softened ice cream, sweetened cream cheese. sweetened ricotta cheese or the filling I use for Whoopie Pies. They taste good, but they all squoosh when you eat them. That's half the fun.

Famous Chocolate Refrigerator Roll

PG tested

• 1 teaspoon vanilla
  
• 2 cups heavy cream, whipped
  
• 9-ounce package Nabisco Famous Chocolate Wafers
  
• Chocolate curls for garnish, optional

Stir vanilla into whipped cream. Spread 1/2 tablespoon whipped cream on each wafer. Begin stacking wafers together and stand on edge on serving platter to make a 14-inch log. Frost with remaining whipped cream. Chill for 4 to 6 hours. (Or freeze until firm; cover with plastic wrap. Thaw in the refrigerator for 1 hour before serving.)

To serve, garnish with chocolate curls; slice roll at 45 degree angle.

Makes about 12 servings.