SAUTE-STEAMED MUSTARD GREENS

"You can saute some finely diced bacon, pancetta or country ham trimmings with the onion if you want more of a traditional cured-pork flavor with these greens," writes Fort Worth Star-Telegram's Amy Culbertson. "Or, to nudge them toward the Asian side, add a tablespoon of grated fresh gingerroot when you add the garlic, pour in a teaspoon of sesame oil just before covering the pan and substitute lemon juice or rice wine vinegar for the balsamic vinegar; finish the greens with a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds, if you like."

• 1 bunch mustard greens, washed, tough stems and discolored or coarse leaves trimmed and discarded
  
• 3 tablespoons good olive oil
  
• 1/2 small onion, chopped
  
• 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  
• 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper, optional, or more to taste
  
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  
• 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, or more to taste

Slice trimmed greens crosswise into 1-inch-thick ribbons. Rinse again under running water in a colander; do not shake off excess water.

In a large skillet or saucepan with a lid, heat oil to medium; add onion and saute about 5 minutes. Add garlic and red pepper and cook 1 minute, stirring; raise heat to medium-high and add greens, in batches if necessary, stirring to coat the greens with oil and adding more greens as they wilt. Add salt and pepper and a teaspoon of water; cover skillet tightly and steam, shaking frequently, 10 to 15 minutes, until tender (steaming time will depend on the age of the mustard; if greens are quite young and tender they may need only 5 minutes), checking occasionally and adding a little more water if necessary.

Uncover, sprinkle greens with vinegar and toss quickly; serve immediately.

Serves 4.

-- Amy Culbertson, Fort Worth Star-Telegram

ORECCHIETTE WITH BROCCOLI RAAB AND CRISPY BREAD CRUMBS

According to the Fort Worth Star-Telegram's Amy Culbertson "Broccoli raab, called cime di rape in Italy, is traditional with orecchiette (little ears) pasta; bread crumbs are the poor man's Parmesan. Anchovy is also a traditional flavoring; if you like, you can add a couple of anchovy fillets with the garlic and red pepper and mash them into a paste in the pan."

• 1 pound broccoli raab
  
• 1/2 cup olive oil, divided
  
• 3 slices Italian or French bread, turned into coarse crumbs in blender
  
• 4 large cloves garlic, minced, or more to taste
  
• 1 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
  
• 1 pound orecchiette
  
• Salt and coarsely ground black pepper to taste

Generously salt a large pot of water and set it over high heat.

Trim tough ends from broccoli raab and discard. Cut the leafy tops and florets off the stems and reserve. Cut stems into 1-inch lengths.

When water comes to a boil, drop in stems, return to the boil and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Remove stems with a strainer, drain and reserve. Bring cooking water back to a boil and add orecchiette.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add bread crumbs and cook, stirring and tossing constantly, until golden-brown and crisped, 5 to 7 minutes; pour crumbs into a bowl or plate and wipe out pan.

Return pan to burner over medium heat and add remaining 1/4 cup olive oil. Add garlic and red-pepper flakes; saute briefly. Add broccoli raab stems and tops and saute, stirring occasionally, about 7 minutes, until greens are tender.

When orecchiette is done, drain, reserving 1/4 cup of the cooking liquid.

Reduce heat under skillet to medium-low and add drained orecchiette and cooking liquid to skillet; stir well. Add reserved bread crumbs and salt and pepper to taste; stir and toss until bread crumbs are thoroughly distributed and serve immediately.

Serves 4.

-- Amy Culbertson, Fort Worth Star-Telegram

BASIC BRAISED GREENS

Cooked greens almost always taste better when they include more than one variety. This recipe includes two sturdy salad greens that cook in about the same time so they can be cooked together. Minced anchovies are a nice addition at the end, if you like them.

• 1 pound escarole
  
• 1 pound curly endive
  
• 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  
• 2 to 4 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  
• Hot pepper flakes
  
• Kosher salt

Core greens and wash well. Drain in a colander. When they are no longer drippy, chop them coarsely. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over moderate heat. Add garlic and pepper flakes. Saute until garlic begins to color. Add greens. They will be bulky at first but will quickly wilt. Stir to coat with the oil.

Increase heat to high and cook, stirring constantly, until greens wilt and are tender enough for your taste, about 5 minutes. Most greens will throw some liquid, so you won't need to add any. If greens threaten to cook dry before they are tender, add a splash of water.

Season with salt. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Serves 4 to 6.

-- Janet Fletcher, San Francisco Chronicle

RADICCHIO RISOTTO

• 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  
• 2 ounces pancetta, minced
  
• 1 pound radicchio, coarsely chopped
  
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
• 1 cup chopped onion
  
• 1 1/2 cups Carnaroli or Arborio rice
  
• 2/3 cup white wine
  
• 5 cups hot chicken broth (dilute 50/50 with water if canned)
  
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  
• 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Put 2 tablespoons olive oil and pancetta in a 12-inch skillet over moderately low heat. Cook, stirring, until the pancetta renders most of its fat and begins to crisp, about 2 minutes.

Add the radicchio, season with salt and pepper and stir to coat with the fat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the radicchio wilts and is tender, 6 to 7 minutes.

In a large saucepan, heat the remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil over moderate heat. Add the onion and saute until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the rice and stir until it is hot throughout. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until it evaporates. Begin adding the hot chicken broth 1/2 cup at a time, stirring often and adding more only when the previous addition has been absorbed. Adjust the heat so the rice simmers gently but steadily. When the rice is about half done, after 9 or 10 minutes of cooking, stir in the radicchio. Continue adding broth gradually until the rice is al dente, about 18 minutes total cooking time. It may or may not need all the broth; if you need more liquid, add hot water. The finished risotto should be creamy, neither soupy nor stiff.

Cover, remove from the heat and let stand 3 minutes to allow the rice kernels to finish plumping. Uncover and vigorously stir in the butter and Parmesan. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve in warm bowls.

Serves 6.

-- Janet Fletcher, San Francisco Chronicle