There was a time, not so long ago, when the first greens of spring were greeted with delight. We're talking cooking greens here -- what country folks called "sallet greens" and gathered "a mess of," those we know by their sharp, green, even bitter flavors.

	Steve Mellon, Post-Gazette Collard greens can be steamed or braised. Click photo for larger image.

These days, we can get greens year-round, not just in spring, but spinach may be the only green most of us are really comfortable with. There's a rainbow of greens out there, though, with far more flavor -- pungent, earthy, bittersweet -- than Popeye ever dreamed of. Think blue-green ruffled kale, red- and yellow-stalked Swiss chard, maroon-and-white radicchio, pale ivory-green endive, not to mention an exotic panoply of Asian greens. If you know how to cook one, chances are you can cook any of them.

If spring sparks the slightest stirrings of adventure in you, here's a guide to help you stretch your palate, get in touch with your inner forager and navigate the world of greens.

Southern staples

Cook these earthy-flavored sturdy greens alone or in combination by lengthy simmering or braising, or add to broth-based soups. Trim off and discard tough stems.

Turnip greens: Simmer or braise.

Bill Wade, Post-Gazette Radicchio can be chopped and used raw in salads. Or it can be grilled or braised to reduce its bitter taste. Click photo for larger image.

Collard greens: Simmer or braise.

Kale: Simmer or braise; these take longest to cook.

Mustard: Simmer or braise, or saute and then steam. Very young leaves add a peppery bite to salads.

Old World

Serve alone or add to pastas, risottos, soups, frittatas or omelets.

Radicchio: Grilling or braising tames its bitterness, or use raw in salads.

Chard: Steam, braise, simmer or saute; cook the meaty stems first.

	Swiss chard can be cooked a number of ways; cook the meaty stems first, though. Click photo for larger image.

Dandelion greens: Braise or simmer; best used sparingly in combination with other greens because of their bitterness. Very early young greens can be wilted in hot oil or a hot dressing for use in a warm salad.

Broccoli raab (rabe, rapini, cime di rape): Assertive bitter flavor. Simmer, steam or saute; trim and discard woody stem ends and cook stems first.

Belgian endive: Delicately bitter; use raw in salads or as crudites, or braise.

Asian

Baby bok choy: Mild flavor; stir-fry or steam or a combination of both.

Water spinach or morning glory greens (rau muong, ong choy): Trim and discard woody ends of stems. Stir-fry or stir-fry and then steam, or use as you would spinach; cook stems first.

Amaranth: Identifiable by its deep-red blush. Stir-fry or stir-fry and then steam; cook stems first.

Chinese broccoli (gai lan): Assertively flavored. Peel and chop or slice stems and cook them first; stir-fry and then steam, or braise.

Yu choy: Cook as you would Chinese broccoli.

Salad bowl or skillet

Spinach: Steam, saute or stir-fry and serve alone, or add to other dishes. Use young leaves raw in salads.

Arugula: Spicy, nutty, peppery. Older leaves are too strong for most palates. Use raw in salads or sandwiches or wilt very briefly and use in pastas or egg dishes.