No doubt about it, it looks kind of gross. But that slimy film on a trout's skin is a good sign.

If this protective, jelly-like cover is rinsed off, the fish is past its prime, says Henry Dewey, co-owner of the new Penn Avenue Fish Co. in the Strip District; fresh trout should be bright and shiny and have bright red gills. In addition, the flesh should smell clean and be firm and elastic to the touch, and the eyes should be bright and clear. Fresh trout doesn't smell fishy.

Because their skin is thin and their scales tiny, trout don't need to be scaled. They're often cooked whole.

You do have to prepare trout with care. According to the United States Trout Farmers Association, off-flavors in fats can be transferred to the trout, so it's wise to use mild oils for cooking -- butter, hydrogenated shortening, and peanut or corn oils.

Some other tips from the USTFA:

Trout fried at a low temperature absorbs too much fat. So cook it hot and cook it fast. For frying, bring the oil to 325 to 350 degrees; for baking, that means a 400- to 450-degree oven.

Overcooking dries out and toughens the fish. Trout is done when it flakes easily with a fork and is still moist and tender.

Store fresh trout in the coldest part of your refrigerator (usually the lowest shelf at the back or in the meat keeper). Use it quickly, within two or three days.

Well-wrapped trout can be frozen for up to two months in a refrigerator freezer and three to four months in a deep-freeze. To thaw, unwrap, place fish in pan, cover, and leave for 24 hours in the refrigerator.

Looking for more recipes? USTFA sells "Trout," a 40-page cookbook with more than 80 recipes, for $5.95 per copy, including postage (call 1-304-728-2189 or visit www.ustfa.org).

The group says that each year, the United States raises some 70 million pounds of trout.