Call me a nervous Nellie, but I couldn't help but worry two months ago when my son, Danny, a junior at Villanova University, headed overseas for a semester at National University of Ireland, Galway.
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| Ed Yozwick, Post-Gazette Click illustration for larger image. Related article More Irish recipes
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In light of Ireland's reputation for less-than-stellar cuisine -- and my son's picky tastes -- I also worried if he'd get enough to eat. (And no, Danny, Guinness Stout is NOT among the five major food groups!)
Turns out, he is eating. Both in his adopted city and during his travels, Danny has tried a wide variety of "real" Irish dishes. And as he's related in a series of e-mail letters, he's actually enjoying them -- enough to send a few recipes home for the rest of us to enjoy.
Jan. 8
Dear Mom:
Cheers from Ireland! Everything has been going well over here, and I've managed to stay out of trouble so far. It's been pretty easy adjusting to life over here, as classes aren't too hard and the pubs (sorry!) are great. I have even been able to get used to the food for the most part.
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| Jonathan Dobzelecki Dan McKay in Dublin Click photo for larger image. |
I'm a big fan of sausage, eggs, and toast, but there were some weird things that came out on that plate. Who wants to eat baked beans at 10 o'clock in the morning? I really can't remember eating them besides at a picnic or a barbecue, but then again, I was too hungry to care. The bacon was also kind of weird, more like a piece of ham than the crispy bacon I'm used to, but it went down pretty well.
It also came out with two kinds of pudding, which as I later found out from my roommate wasn't really pudding at all, but sausages made from blood, fat, bread and oatmeal.
But you know, they really weren't that bad, just a little gritty. With a little ketchup, they actually tasted pretty good.
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| Dan McKay McDonagh's in Galway Click photo for larger image. |
The grocery store has been another adventure. I thought I was being smart when I bought a six-pack of flaky steak pies for 4 euros (about $5.25) -- six meals for dirt cheap.
It wasn't until my roommates informed me, or rather had a three-minute joke at my expense, that my pies contained sheep kidney, not the beans I expected. They've been untouched at the bottom of my freezer ever since.
I've attached a recipe for an Irish breakfast my roommate gave me.
Maybe you can make it for the kids some morning -- just don't tell them what pudding is until after they've eaten it.
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| Dan McKay Paddy's pub in Galway Click photo for larger image. |
Your son,
Dan
Jan. 19
Dear Mom:
I'm writing you from Killarney, County Kerry. We got here on Friday, after a pretty long and interesting journey. We did some sight-seeing around town and took a cab to go see Muckross Abbey, which is this really cool old manor on the side of the lake. It was built around 1440 and it's where some of County Kerry's most famous poets are buried. We decided it would be a good idea to hike to the top of this adjacent mountain, which, given the fact that I haven't really done anything physical for the last three months, made me feel like a 70-year-old asthmatic smoking a cigarette.
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| Dan McKay Fish and chips from McDonagh's Click photo for larger image. |
As you can see, I'm not starving, though I sure miss my peanut butter.
We are leaving today to go back to Galway, but we are stopping at the cliffs of Moher on the way and will also see the Torc Waterfall, which falls 70 feet. I will be sure to take lots of pictures -- that is, if I don't fall off the cliffs.
Talk to you soon,
Dan
Feb. 9
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| Dan McKay McSwiggan's in Galway, where Dan McKay discovered the joys of authentic Irish stew. Click photo for larger image. |
Hope everything is going well in Pittsburgh. I have still been having a great time over here in Ireland, although I'm desperate for a Primanti's sandwich at this point. I'm not saying the food isn't great over here; it's just that I'm starting to get a little homesick for American food.
Take lunch, for example. You can get it at pretty much any pub or corner store in the city. It generally revolves around a sandwich of some sort, albeit minus the fries and coleslaw that I miss so much. Instead, you get soup and tea. Not too bad, I guess, but a little light in my opinion.
One of my favorite sandwiches for lunch is at Ward's corner store, which is right next to campus. They serve a great sausage hoagie that's fairly inexpensive -- it's actually a lot cheaper than what Subway charges over here. The sandwich has ham, sausage, cheese, and sweet chili sauce. You can see the common Irish theme of putting ham on basically everything.
However, when I'm feeling really hungry for lunch, some of the Irish pubs offer some pretty hearty meals. The other day I went to this pub called McSwiggan's to get some Irish stew. Along with the stew came some fried potatoes (as I said earlier, the Irish love their chips), vegetables, and some mashed potatoes. I tried to get the recipe for you, which the waitress found to be very funny. But unfortunately, the kitchen wouldn't give it out. Not all is lost, however, because my roommate promised to give me a recipe for what she called "the best Irish stew" from her dad's restaurant.
I'm sure the kids will love it, if they are ready to trust eating Irish food again after learning about black pudding.
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| Jonathan Dobzelecki Dan McKay: "We went out to the pubs after dinner, but I'm sure you don't want to hear about that!" Click photo for larger image. |
Feb. 13
Cheers from Ireland!
We are in Dublin right now, on a school-sponsored trip. It's pretty amazing. We got into the city at about 1 p.m. on Friday, and immediately had to go to a museum, where we saw an exhibit on ancient Irish metal work (really interesting, right?).
After we were a little settled in, we went on a tour of Trinity College and saw an exhibit on an ancient copy of the Bible (again, really exciting, right?). The best part was our free meal that night. We went to a restaurant called Gallagher's Boxty House, which was a pretty standard Irish restaurant. There I got the Atlantic seafood appetizer, which had all kinds of oysters, clams, mussels, salmon (both smoked and cooked), and some kind of weird fish. I usually don't even like most of that stuff, but it was free, and turned out to be really good.
For the main course, my roommate Kevin got a dish called "boxty," which turned out to be a potato pancake with a saucy filling (he went for stout-marinated steak and mushrooms). I got surf-and-turf (keep in mind this meal is on the school), which was pretty good except for the turf, which was actually giant Dublin Bay prawns with the tails and legs still on.
The next day we went on a tour of Kilmainham Gaol, or jail, which is where they held and later executed the organizers of the Easter Rising in 1916. It was a really interesting tour (they filmed "In the Name of the Father" with Daniel Day-Lewis here), but it was freezing out.
Later that night we went out to dinner at a steakhouse/wine bar, which was great as well. For dinner I got Galway Bay mussels as an appetizer, and steak, both of which were great. But the cheesecake for dessert was really funky. It was kind of gritty and it had like a 2-inch-thick crust, neither of which are good qualities in a cheesecake. We went out to the pubs after dinner, but I'm sure you don't want to hear about that!
I'm writing this from the train station, but I will give you a call when I get back as I need more money ...
Dan
Feb. 26
Dear Mom:
I was thinking the other day how much Grandpa would like Galway. It's on a cold-water ocean, so it's blessed with some really great seafood, and I know how crazy he is about fresh fish. Galway, in fact, is supposed to have some of the best oysters in Ireland, something I pretty much believe because they are advertised as far away as Dublin. (Remember I got them for dinner?) There's even an international oyster festival here each year, though I'll miss it since it's in September and by then I'll be back at Villanova.
Some restaurants put their Galway oysters in stews and casseroles, but I think the best way to eat them is raw, with a little bit of lemon juice or Tabasco. Some of the pubs you go to, you can order oysters by the dozen, though that can get expensive as they cost as much as 2 euros (or almost $3) apiece at a place like the Temple Bar in Dublin. Well, at least they're big -- almost as big as your hand.
Most restaurants in Galway also offer some form of that Atlantic seafood platter I was telling you about, usually served with brown bread. McDonagh's (the fish-and-chips place I went to in Galway) had it as a salad. Other then that, salmon, which I guess is caught right off the coast or in Galway Bay, is really popular. And fish and chips. Everyone has fish and chips.
At McDonagh's, they serve the fish and chips on a plate, but you actually have to pay for ketchup, which happens all the time in Ireland.
There is vinegar and salt on the table, but the food is good enough that you can just eat it plain. At least, that's what I do.
Dan
March 2
Dear Mom:
I don't want to be a pest, but did you send that care package yet? Irish food is great, but I sure miss my Jif.
And while you're at it, you might as well stick in some Thin Mints.
Olivia told me Girl Scout cookies are in ...
Dan
TRADITIONAL IRISH BREAKFAST
All the meats and puddings in this recipe are available stateside from online sources such as Amazon.com.
Over low heat, saute bacon, turning frequently until done to taste. (It is important to note that Irish bacon is not cooked crisp/hard.) Remove from pan and drain on paper towels. Keep hot.
Place sausages in pan and cook until brown on all sides. Cut tomatoes in half and fry with slices of pudding in the bacon fat. Remove and keep hot. All the above items can also be broiled instead of fried. Cook eggs to order and serve with meats and pudding.
Serves 2
-- Ireland On-Line (www.iol.ie)

IRISH SHEPHERD'S PIE
PG TESTED
This popular comfort dish includes the Irish trinity of meat, vegetables and potatoes. It is traditionally made with minced lamb (hence the title "shepherd"), although some people prefer to make it with minced beef.
Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the chopped onion. Cover and let sweat for a few minutes. Add the carrots. Stir in the flour and cook until slightly browned; add stock and herbs. Bring to a boil and reduce it a little by boiling for about 5 minutes. Add the meat and bring back to the boil.
Place vegetable/meat mixture in a pie dish and cover with the mashed potatoes.
Put in a 350-degree oven and bake for 30 minutes. For extra taste, you can grate some Dubliner Irish cheese on top 10 minutes before the end of cooking.
Season with salt and pepper.
Serves 4 to 6.

TRADITIONAL IRISH LAMB STEW
PG TESTED
An Irish meal that gets better as it ages.
Place lamb in a large pot and cover with water; bring to a boil, then reduce heat and cook for 30 minutes. Drain lamb, reserving broth. Rinse lamb with cold water, then drain again. Strain reserved broth through a sieve lined with cheesecloth, then measure, adding more water if needed to make 4 cups. Pour broth into a large pot; add lamb, potatoes, celery, carrots, leeks and onion. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in parsley. Ladle into bowls to serve.
Makes 4 servings
-- "Ireland Memories" by Patricia Tunison Preston

GALLAGHER'S BOXTY PANCAKES
This traditional dish can be made either like bread or a pancake; it all depends on how thin you make the batter. Boxty dishes at this popular Dublin restaurant are fairly thin and floppy and served with a variety of fillings -- everything from steak marinated in whiskey or honey to salmon in a spinach-and-dill sauce.
Mix eggs with flour and potato together until fully blended. Add milk slowly and whisk ingredients together, forming a smooth batter. Salt and pepper to taste.
Heat a little oil or butter in pan. Pour a ladle of batter into the pan and swirl it so it covers the pan. Turn the heat to medium-high. Flip the pancake when the edges are starting to cook through.
Makes about 6 pancakes.
-- Dave Power, head chef, Gallagher's Boxty House

GAELIC BOXTY FILLING
Chef Dave Power suggests serving Gaelic boxty with some traditional colcannon (an Irish potato dish similar to halushki) for a great St. Patrick's Day meal.
Fry the medallions in a little oil until browned on both sides. They should be medium rare, but cook just short of your personal preference. Leave aside. In the same pan, slowly cook the onions and mushrooms until they are soft but not brown. Add the whiskey and ignite the alcohol. Cook until the liquid has dissolved.
Drain the excess liquid and add some cracked black pepper and cream. Reduce the cream until it's the consistency of sauce and add the medallions of beef. Simmer until the medallions are heated through. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Wrap 3 medallions in a boxty pancake and cover with a little sauce.
Makes 2.
-- Dave Power, Gallagher's Boxty House

MCDONAGH'S FISH & CHIPS
PG TESTED
Fish and chips (what we call french fries) is one of the most popular "take away" meals in Ireland. Some of the best is reputed to be served at McDonagh's "chipper" in Galway. Fishmongers for more than four generations, the owners buy fish from local fishermen daily and serve within hours.
For the fish
To cook fish
Sieve flour and a pinch of salt into a bowl, and make a well in the center. Pour in oil and chilled water, and carefully mix into the flour. Whisk the white of an egg until stiff and fold lightly into the batter.
Preheat the oil in a fryer to 350 degrees. Dip the fish into the batter. Drain and lower into the hot oil. Fry until the batter is crisp and golden, normally 6-8 minutes. Remove from the oil and drain on kitchen paper.
To cook chips
Allow 2 medium potatoes per person. Peel potatoes and cut into strips no wider than 1 centimeter (about a half-inch). Wash in cold water. Drain well and dry by shaking in a tea towel or a similar piece of cloth.
Preheat oil in fryer to about 160-degree Celsius (about 320 degrees Fahrenheit). Put half of the chips into the oil. Cook until chips are soft and flexible but not browned. Remove chips and drain.
Bring oil up to 160 degrees Celsius again and par-cook the remaining chips.
Five minutes before serving, bring the oil temperature up to 180 degrees Celsius (approximately 350 degrees). Quickly cook half of the cooled chips until they're golden brown. A couple of minutes are all they should require. Drain on kitchen paper, and cook the remainder of chips.
Season the fish and chips with salt and malt vinegar before serving.
Serves 2-4.
-- Colm McDonagh, McDonagh's Seafood Restaurant, Galway
