Let's take a good look in that deep freezer of yours. Packs of ground meat, freezer-burned pork chops, a bag of lima beans, something that looks like a brick. You really ought to redd this thing up.

Rebecca Droke, Post-Gazette photos Chef Joe Rossi, center, demonstrates how to prepare venison tenderloin to, from left, Rolf Viehoever, Hilde Viehoever and Mark Savolskis at Sweetwater Cooking, South Side. Click photo for larger image. Sources for game Call for availability. Market District, Shadyside: 412-681-1500. Market District, Bethel Park: 412-831-1480. McGinnis Sisters, Brentwood: 412-882-6400. McGinnis Sisters, Monroeville: 412-884-2323. Jo-Mar Provisions, the Strip District: 412-471-1760. John McGinnis and Co., Castle Shannon, 412-344-1450. Wholey's, Penn Avenue, the Strip District: 412-391-3737. For more information www.joeswildsideadven-tures.com. Sweetwater Cooking, South Side: 412-325-2703.

Digging deeper, I see what I'm looking for: packages of game. There's venison from last season, rabbit from last year and, from the thickness of permafrost on that one, it could be haunch of mastodon.

When do you plan to cook that game? And how?

If the answer is "I don't know" to either question, keep reading.

What often happens is this: The hunter brings home his bag, or we accept a gift of game from a friend. With best intentions, we wrap and freeze it. But the meat is forgotten, often because the cook knows only how to make burgers or chili, if that.

Enter Joe Rossi, a lifelong hunter, fisherman and owner of Wildside Adventures, a business that offers hunting and fishing destination travel. He's also a self-taught cook, and his classes, "Cooking on the Wildside," bring an expert's approach to fish and game.

Mr. Rossi recently hosted A Wild Game Dinner at Sweetwater Cooking school on the South Side. The menu included Wild Duck Bruschetta, Kansas Pheasant Soup, Venison Tenderloin with Balsamic Reduction, Oregano Potatoes and Medley of Roasted Vegetables.

In spite of single-digit temperatures that night, nine eager students attended and were divided into two teams, each responsible for different parts of the dinner.

A foursome from Sewickley donned aprons. John Oliver with Sylvia Dallas partnered with Barbara Ward and her husband, Luke, who opened two bottles of chardonnay before sitting down to hear the group's marching orders for the dinner. "John is the hunter, Luke and Sylvia like to cook together and I'm the cheerleader," said Ms. Ward. They were Team Sewickley.

Erin and Rick Claypool of Scott and Hilde and Rolf Viehoever, who were visiting from Germany, made up the A Team, along with Mark Savolskis of Pleasant Hills. Mr. Savolskis is a bow hunter and hobby chef of "whatever is in season."

Venison Tenderloin in a balsamic reduction, medium rare. Click photo for larger image.

He explained, "My uncle always took me hunting when I was young. The problem was that my parents had no idea how to cook the game I brought home. They cooked it and we ate it, but it was bad. That's how I became interested in cooking."

While the teams settled in at their work stations, Mr. Rossi displayed the game for the evening. "I harvested the wild venison, duck and pheasant," he said. "So please be careful when you take a bite. I tried to get out all of the shot, but sometimes something is left behind. "

He also warned them that game is lean. Very lean. "You won't find marbling in a wild animal, and because each one chooses a unique diet, each piece of venison will taste different from a similar cut in a different animal."

With that, he showed two venison tenderloins, one deep red, the other dark maroon.

"You have to think differently when cooking free-range game," he continued. "Venison should be eaten medium rare. Duck is so lean, it can almost be eaten like sushi."

Team Sewickley was assigned to make wild duck bruschetta appetizers, one of the venison tenderloins and their share of potatoes and vegetables.

The A-Team would make pheasant soup, the other venison tenderloin and roasted vegetables. Intent on their chopping blocks, they listened to ongoing patter from the instructor. "My recipes aren't formulas," Mr. Rossi said. "They are more or less suggestions, and I like students to season to taste. "

Mr. Savolskis cut the pheasants (from Kansas) into portions and Ms. Claypool browned the pieces in olive oil. "I hunt, and she cooks," Mr. Claypool said with a laugh.

Gaynor Grant, owner of Sweetwater Cooking, circulated between the groups giving tips and locating equipment. She said people are eager for classes involving healthy cooking. "As a result, people are getting turned on to game."

After the first hour, the appetizer was ready. A hash of tomatoes, basil, black olives and mushrooms was spooned onto toasted baguette slices.

Topping that were a slice of rare duck breast and a sprinkle of parmesan cheese. The first course was pronounced delicious and quickly disappeared.

As soon as the pheasant was cooked, Mr. Viehoever removed pieces from the broth. The meat was stripped from bone and returned to the soup pot. "If we left the meat on the bone, it would be like eating dental floss," Mr. Rossi said. "Pheasant legs are full of tendons."

Places were set, wine was poured. As he carved the venison, a proud Mr. Rossi told the class his good news: His new 30-minute TV show, at 12:30 p.m. Sundays on Fox Sports, debuts March 11.

It's called "Cooking on the Wild Side."

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WILD DUCK BREAST BRUSCHETTA

PG TESTED

For this simplified version of the recipe made in class, we spread jarred tapenade on baguette slices, topped them with medium rare duck slices and sprinkled with grated cheese.

• 2 duck breasts, without fat layer
  
• Salt and pepper
  
• Olive oil
  
• Baguette, sliced thin
  
• Tapenade
  
• Freshly grated parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Rub the duck breasts with salt and pepper.

Pour a tablespoon of olive oil into a hot saute pan. Add the duck breasts and cook about 3 minutes on each side to medium rare. Timing will vary depending on the thickness of the breasts. Set aside to cool.

Place bread slices on a baking sheet and brush with olive oil. Bake in a preheated oven for about 10 minutes or until brown and crisp. Remove from the baking sheet.

Spread each slice with about 1 teaspoon tapenade. Thinly slice the duck breasts, and place one slice on each toast. Sprinkle with parmesan cheese, and serve.

Makes about 20-25 slices.

-- Joe Rossi

VENISON TENDERLOIN WITH BALSAMIC REDUCTION

PG TESTED

• 1 venison tenderloin
  
• Freshly ground black pepper
  
• Salt
  
• Garlic salt
  
• Dried rosemary, crushed
  
• Cayenne pepper
  
• 1 cup balsamic vinegar
  
• 12 pearl onions, skins removed
  
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
  
• Parsley, minced

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Rub the tenderloin with a mixture of your choice of seasonings or these: pepper, salt, garlic salt, crushed rosemary and cayenne pepper. Set aside.

Place the balsamic vinegar and onions in a saucepan over low heat. Cook until the onions are soft and the vinegar has reduced by half.

Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan and sear the venison on all sides until brown. Place in the preheated oven for 10 to 15 minutes, depending if you like it rare or medium.

Remove the venison from the oven and allow to rest for 8 minutes. Slice into 1-inch pieces. Spoon some balsamic reduction onto a plate and top with slices of venison. Garnish with a sprinkle of parsley. Serve with roasted red potatoes.

Serves 4 to 6.

-- Joe Rossi

ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP WITH PHEASANT

PG TESTED

This recipe makes soup for a crowd. For six servings, halve the ingredients. Chicken can be substituted for the pheasant.

• 2 pheasants, skinned and cut up
  
• Salt and pepper
  
• Olive oil
  
• 3 stalks celery, trimmed and diced
  
• 2 carrots, trimmed and cut into rounds
  
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
  
• 1/4 cup chopped parsley
  
• 3 tablespoons minced fresh oregano or marjoram leaves
  
• 12 cups (2 large cans) chicken broth
  
• 2 heads escarole, washed and spun dry
  
• 1 cup orzo pasta
  
• Grated parmesan cheese

Season pieces of pheasant with salt and pepper. Heat about 1/2 cup olive oil in a large heavy pot. Add pheasant and brown on all sides. Do this in batches and do not crowd the pan. Once all the meat is browned, remove it from the pot and set aside.

Add the chopped celery, carrots, garlic, parsley and oregano or marjoram to the pot along with a little olive oil and stir occasionally until the vegetables are soft. Return the pheasant to the pot along with the chicken stock and 4 cups of water. Bring to a boil, cover, lower the heat and simmer for about an hour.

Remove pheasant pieces from the soup and allow to cool briefly. Strip the meat from the bones and return the meat to the soup.

Coarsely chop the escarole into large pieces and add to the soup. Ten minutes before serving, add the pasta to the soup and cook until done. Remove from heat. Serve bowls of soup sprinkled with parmesan cheese.

Makes about 12 servings.

-- Joe Rossi