Eleanor Berman, Travel Arts Syndicate Part of a trompe l'oeil (fool the eye) mural covering a full block in the Croix Rousse neighborhood of Lyon. It is one of the unusual sights of France's third-largest city, which is a culinary center and the start of Rhone River cruises on Grand Circle's ship, M/S Provence.

By Eleanor Berman, Travel Arts Syndicate

VIVIERS, France -- The lane leading from France's Rhone River to the main square in Viviers is guarded by rows of century-old sycamore trees -- a pretty picture that would surely intrigue an artist. The walk along narrow, zigzag, medieval lanes to the cathedral at the top of the hill rewards with another inspiring view. The patchwork of ancient, red tile roofs below whips every camera into action.

		Rhone cruises Grand Circle's trip on the M/S Provence offers good value. Rates include air fare from Baltimore, Boston, New York or Newark, airport transfers, most guided tours, shipboard presentations on local culture and complementary wine with dinner. In 2007, the Rhone itinerary on the M/S Provence or the similar ship, M/S Chardonnay, will be part of Grand Circle's 13-day trip from Paris to Nice that adds a stop in Chalon-sur-Saone in Burgundy, one hotel night in Nice and three hotel nights in Paris. Cruises are from late March to mid-November. Rates begin at $2,545 per person, double occupancy (plus taxes and port fees). For information, call 1-800-221-2610 or see www.gct.com. Other cruise lines traveling the Rhone include Peter Deilmann Cruises, 1-800-348-8287, www.deilmann-cruises.com; Viking River Cruises, 1-877-668-4546, www.vikingrivercruises.com; and Uniworld, 1-800-360-9550, www.uniworld.com.

Hardly mentioned in guidebooks, Viviers, a delightful little town of 3,000 that traces its origins to the fifth century, is an example of the special pleasures of a river cruise. A river itinerary is similar to a driving trip, offering not only major cities but also the chance to stop in the lesser-known towns that are a large part of Europe's appeal.

In contrast to the ever-larger cruise giants, a ship such as Grand Circle's M/S Provence carries just 46 passengers and feels much like a convivial country inn. Cabins are surprisingly large for a small vessel. While dinner is at a set time, seating is open for mixing and mingling. The food is not gourmet but is always tasty, and if the set menu does not please, a steak or chicken breast is available as an alternate.

A one-week cruise on the Rhone from Lyon to Arles -- just over 150 miles -- takes in Roman ruins, walled, medieval towns, a former papal palace, the restaurants of Paul Bocuse, the haunts of Vincent van Gogh and more. Vineyards and majestic vistas are pleasant sights between stops.

The trip begins in Lyon, a beautiful 2,000-year-old city cradled by hills, with the Rhone and Saone rivers running through the heart of town. The third-largest city in France with a population of nearly half a million, Lyon came into its own as the home of a thriving silk industry after 1801, when Joseph Jacquard invented mechanized weaving looms that could produce intricate work formerly possible only by hand.

The major buildings of this show-off period went up on the peninsula between the rivers, the area known as "Presqu'ile." Today it is a mix of grand squares, such as the vast Place Bellecour, and narrow, cobbled streets, such as Rue de la Republique, lined with chic shops.

On the far side of the Saone River is Vieux Lyon, the old city, with 16th- and 17th-century buildings pressed together beneath the steep hill called Fourviere. The only bus tour of the week took us up the hill to the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere, built in the more grandiose 19th century. It is an impressive sight, with twin octagonal towers and rich mosaics inside. The drive continued with another uphill route to the Croix Rousse district at the top of Presqu'ile. Once a workers' quarter, it is now a warren of quaint neighborhoods, one of them adorned with a r

	Online Graphic Map of Rhone River region of France

emarkable block-long, trompe l'oeil mural of nearby streets.

Not the least of Lyon's lures is its reputation as a gastronomic capital and the home of chef Paul Bocuse, whose restaurant is a culinary shrine. Bocuse also owns four excellent, informal brasseries around town. The Beaujolais wines of the region are a nice accompaniment to a Bocuse meal. Vienne, the next day's destination, is a smaller city with relics of its ancient Roman city walls and some well-preserved monuments such as the Temple of Augustus and Livia, originally dedicated to emperor Augustus at the end of the first century B.C.

The city's Roman amphitheater, built on a slope overlooking town during the reign of Augustus, is the second-largest arena built in Gaul, able to hold up to 13,000 spectators. It is still used for concerts in summer. Several passengers chose to have dinner ashore in Vienne in order to visit one of France's most hallowed restaurants, La Pyramide.

A morning departure leads to Tournon, where a castle on a rocky peak has presided over the town since the early Middle Ages. Tournon is in the heart of the Cote-du-Rhone wine region, and a center for the exportation of wine. Vineyards climb the slopes of the twin town across the Rhone, Tain l'Hermitage. Here, passengers are divided into small groups for a home visit -- a chance to meet a local family and see how they live.

Our host, a baker, had prepared a traditional French holiday cake for us. Talks on the ship also gave us insight into the foods, customs and culture of the places we would visit.

Viviers marks a change in scenery to limestone cliffs and woodlands as the ship sailed through the wilder region known as the Ardeche.

Almost everyone was on deck early the next morning with camera in hand to capture the first views of the Avignon bridge and the strong, medieval walls of the city beyond. Made famous by a children's song, "Sur le Pont d'Avignon," the bridge is a landmark even though it has been eroded by the stormy Rhone and only four of the original 22 arches remain. The river was one of France's most turbulent until it was tamed by a series of locks and dams. The ship passes through a dozen locks on this journey.

Avignon's most notable sight is the enormous, fortress-like Palace of the Popes. Pope Clement V moved the papal court here in 1309, escaping from factional strife in Rome and the interference of King Philippe IV of France. Nine official popes reigned here until 1377, followed by three rebel anti-popes. The last, Benedict XIII, fled in 1403. The furnishings and artwork were destroyed or looted following the French Revolution in 1789, but a tour through vast rooms is still fascinating. The palace is home to France's largest summer festival of music, drama and dance.

Today's Avignon, a fashionable city of 87,000, is a shopper's mecca. Several museums beckon, most notably the Musee Calvet housed in an 18th-century mansion.

The most colorful stop of the week is Arles, following the footsteps of Vincent van Gogh. Some of the artist's best works were produced here during his residency in 1888-89. The hospital where he was treated after cutting off his ear is now the Espace Van Gogh, a cultural center devoted to his life and work. A small replica of the painting van Gogh did of the hospital garden is displayed at the spot where he painted -- one of many such replicas around town.

Arles was an important Roman town, the fourth-century capital of Gaul, Britain and Spain -- its riches second only to Rome's. Many splendid ruins remain. The vestiges of the amphitheater called the Theatre Antique are atmospheric, but even more impressive is the Arenes, an arena built in the first century to hold 20,000 spectators. It is still used for bullfights.

A final shopping excursion in Arles to pick up the appealing blue and yellow textiles of Provence provides colorful souvenirs of a memorable week.