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A taste of the Orient up North
Sunday, February 25, 2007

It's the Year of the Pig and with celebrations for the Chinese New Year still in full swing, RoadTrip was in the mood for some Asian culture.

  
Each week we map out a road trip in the region. If you have a suggestion for a great one, e-mail roadtrip@post-gazette.com or write:
RoadTrip
The Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
34 Blvd. of the Allies
Pittsburgh, PA 15222

What better place to find it than 30 miles north of Pittsburgh in Butler at the Maridon Museum, which boasts a breathtaking collection of Chinese jade and Meissen porcelain.

With nearly 800 objects, the museum that opened in 2004 was the brainchild of Mary Hulton Phillips, whose attraction to a carved ivory figure of an Asian woman launched a 40-year passion for collecting. (Elmer Yost, the delightful guide who gave us a personal, two-hour tour, sang in a choir years ago with Mrs. Phillips and loves her sense of humor.)

At the front of the Maridon's first gallery stands Guanyin, the Buddhist goddess of mercy. Flanking her are a pair of tall phoenixes; all three pieces were carved out of Indian elephant tusks.

Behind you are two Foo dogs carved of rose quartz; the male plays with a ball and the female cradles a puppy in her paws. Both dogs have their mouths open so they can inhale any evil spirits, Mr. Yost says.

Jade, a mineral prized by ancient civilizations, is mined in Myanmar (formerly Burma), South America and Canada. Jade comes in two forms -- jadeite, the more precious variety, and nephrite. Both are naturally white, and so the colors in jade result from geological impurities. Chromium oxide turns jade green, for example. To carve jade, master craftsmen scrape and rub it with crushed diamonds, rubies and garnets.

"Some of these pieces might be an artist's life's work," says Mr. Yost, pointing out his favorite, "Ten Horses in Flight," a 20th-century piece from China. "Twelve Birds With Peonies" is equally astonishing in its imaginative flourishes and detail.

The museum also owns 99 netsuke, toggles carved out of small bits of ivory. Japanese men used netsuke to anchor small leather cases that held money, medicine and tobacco to the sashes of their kimonos.

When you finish marveling at the museum, don't miss the gift shop. Its collection of elegant, Asian-inspired handbags and perfume flacons is worth a look.

This reclining horse, made of lapis lazuli, was carved in China during the 20th century.
Click photo for larger image.
The museum, at 322 N. McKean St., is open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays; noon to 5 on Sundays; 724-282-0123; www.maridon.org. Admission for adults is $4; $3 for students and senior citizens; children under 8, free.

We journeyed north on a day when snow blanketed Butler and its steep surrounding hills. The community looked as if it had sprung from the set of Thornton Wilder's play "Our Town."

With a thriving Main Street where shopkeepers introduced themselves and a visitor could obtain excellent directions, Butler possessed a friendly atmosphere.

The museum is just a couple blocks off Main Street, and after our visit there we headed back to the main drag. On the advice of a colleague from nearby Bakerstown, we lunched at Natili North at 204 N. Main St. This attractive luncheonette, which has cozy green leather booths, is best known for its soups and pies. During this frigid February, what more does a body need than hot coffee, minestrone soup, a grilled vegetable sandwich on a rye bun and a slice of triple chocolate pie? All for $12.

On the way back to Pittsburgh, heading south on Route 8, we had time to shop for warm alpaca clothing at Sunset Hills Farm, 1120 Three Degree Road. From Route 8, turn right onto Airport Road and left at the Penn Township fire hall onto Three Degree Road.

Located in a large barn, the Alpaca de Moda Boutique is packed with apparel made from the fleece of alpacas, which are members of the llama family.

One half of the barn houses alpacas, the other a good variety of alpaca jackets, sweaters, hats, scarves and other accessories. The boutique is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Mondays through Fridays; and noon to 4 p.m. Saturdays; 724-586-2412; www. sunsethillsalpacas.com. A single pair of Red Maple alpaca socks may cost $24 but during this cold snap, some women, including myself, will pay anything to experience the comfort of toasty toes.

This reclining horse, made of lapis lazuli, was carved in China during the 20th century.
Click photo for larger image.


First published on February 25, 2007 at 12:00 am