Stuart Ramson/Associated Press Designer Kimora Lee Simmons and her daughters Ming, left, and Aoki, take a stroll on the runway at the conclusion of the Baby Phat winter/fall collection show.

By Samantha Critchell
The Associated Press

NEW YORK -- The early shows of New York Fashion Week indicate the style pendulum might be swinging toward a more fitted, tailored look this fall, but most of the heavy hitters -- including Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein and Vera Wang -- have yet to weigh in.

	Richard Drew, Associated Press Angela Bassett wore a Carmen Marc Valvo creation for the Red Dress Heart Truth show. Click photo for larger image.

Popular colors are also beginning to shine through: winter whites, beige-tone neutrals, plum, green and teal.

The hot ticket Friday night was Kimora Lee Simmons' debut of her higher-end KLS collection, which was shown alongside her junior-market Baby Phat line.

Celebrities and their stylists, retailers and fashion editors continue previewing next season's looks in New York through Friday before moving on to London, Milan and Paris.

Baby Phat

The first Russian-inspired styles to hit the runway, including a winter white high-neck halter dress with bubble hem paired with fur-trimmed boots and a series of tailored herringbone trousers and pencil skirts with gilded adornments, were promising. There also was an elegant halter scarf gown in an Asian print in autumnal colors worn by Alek Wek, one of the few high-wattage models to still make an occasional appearance at Fashion Week.

The designer was really onto something with her women's jeans. Most featured skinny legs, continuing a trend that proved popular last holiday shopping season, but she freshened them up with button details and gold seams. One particularly interesting pair had zippers at the bottom that, when opened, had tiers of herringbone fabric flow from mid-calf to the floor.

Nicole Miller

Nicole Miller seems to be delving deeper into her explorations of Latin America. Her spring collection was inspired by the Mayan culture, while her fall looks are rooted in Peru.

She translated an ancient pottery technique known as chulucana into a bold graphic print that was beautifully used on coats, skirts, gowns and even a cashmere scarf.

Playing into the theme, many of the models wore bowler-style hats with crisp white shirts -- the best one being a poplin shirt with a two-tiered sleeve -- with long A-line skirts.

Ms. Miller also has a strong following among young women on the party circuit so she also offered a few more luxe looks including a short, boxy metallic jacket worn with a quilted skirt (another emerging trend) that had an embroidered band at the hem.

Marc Bouwer

Marc Bouwer based his line on "imitation," saying all attempts to convince his audience that his faux furs were real were completely intentional.

His best work for fall were the faux striped chinchilla coat, worn belted "Jackie O"-style, and a black faux astrakhan and mink empire-waist coat that was cut close to the body.

Mr. Bouwer also gave a modern touch to the classic screen-siren gown by adding two chrome rings to the neckline and offering it in a soft mauve color. Too many of the evening styles, though, were too full and puffy, especially those that started with an empire waist, that left the models lost in a sea of fabric.

BCBG Max Azria

Max Azria and his design partner, his wife Lubov, defied early expectations that fall would bring a slimmer silhouette. The BCBG collection, considered slightly younger and less expensive than the Azria signature line, was a series of short, loose dresses -- but not the tent and sack dresses that were all over the spring runways. These were flirty and more feminine.

Some of the best looks had interesting appliques, such as chain mesh, leather or snakeskin, or patchwork fabric. There also was a sexy nude- and gray-colored gown made of silk and satin.

The dominant colors were soft neutrals with plum and green as accents. Accessories included men's-style oxford shoes and knit hats.

Perry Ellis

Designer John Crocco must have spent a peaceful day on a Hamptons beach last fall -- or he dreamed of it from his office window.

If he gets to go this October, he can have his choice of stylish coats and cozy sweaters, the best ones long cardigans with self-tie belts.

The palette was sandy, too, with most garments falling between winter white and cognac.

There were two styles of men's pants, either straight leg with a cuff or more fitted jean-style pants with a skinny leg.

John Bartlett

This collection was a parade of camel- and oatmeal-colored clothes that would look right on an urban hipster or suburban dad. Menswear generally takes fewer risks than womenswear does, but it's also harder to incorporate real style or flair.

John Bartlett did it here.

The pant legs were narrow, jackets fitted and sweaters full of texture, especially cable details. Color-blocking added energy to ski-style turtlenecks and subtle patchworking, accomplished by mixing tonal fabrics, was enough to make suits stand out without seeming gimmicky.

Red Dress Collection

Kicking off Fashion Week Friday night was the Heart Truth show, an annual event in which celebrities wear red dresses created for them by famous designers. Heart Truth is part of the Red Dress project, a federal initiative spearheaded by first lady Laura Bush, to raise awareness about heart disease.

It's not a fashion show by traditional standards, but the standing ovation that tennis great Billie Jean King received might be a sign that fashion industry insiders are more willing to accept women who exceed the size 0s that have become the standard.

The Heart Truth show was attended by Mrs. Bush, who wore a crimson Bill Blass skirt suit. She was accompanied by Blass designer Michael Vollbracht and Carolina Herrera.

Most audience members had their eyes on the celebrity models -- including Kelly Ripa, Lauren Hutton and Angela Bassett -- but there was some real fashion on the runway, too.

One-shoulder goddess gowns were worn by Kim Cattrall for Carolina Herrera and Rachael Ray for Donna Karan, while Marlee Matlin wore a sweetheart-neck strapless gown by Douglas Hannant.

Paula Zahn's V-neck draped gown by Bill Blass flowed beautifully behind her and Ms. Hutton was the perfect model for Narciso Rodriguez's architectural gown with sheer short sleeves.

Ms. Ripa wore her Diane von Furstenberg beaded wrap dress well; race-car driver Danica Patrick looked like a modeling pro in her loose short-sleeve gown by Jovovich-Hawk that featured a heart embroidery at the center of its empire waist.