Diet season is upon us, in this post-holiday period of resolutions, good intentions and low-calorie portions. What better time to whip up a big pot of macaroni and cheese?

	Photos from "Macaroni & Cheese" by Marlena Spieler Yankee Doodle Dandy Macaroni and Cheese. Click photo for larger image.

Not to be completely contrary, but no one can be good all the time. And if you're going to have an occasional splurge on a decadent dish, isn't it better to slip into a bowl of luxuriant mac & cheese -- maybe made with some luscious Swiss Gruyere and Danish fontina cheeses, with a sprinkling of parmesan to help form a beautiful golden crust -- than to throw away those prized calories on a lukewarm, dried-out Big Mac or that package of stale Oreos you've been hiding from yourself?

Homemade mac & cheese, whether it's made with Velveeta or Vacherin Fribourgeois, is one of the world's great comfort dishes, perfect for gloomy winter evenings when you're tired and cold and hungry and stressed out. As expected, it is heavy on the calories and fat -- depending on the recipe, one cup will cost you about 500 calories and half your daily recommended intake of fat. But it also contains one serving of protein and about 30 percent of the calcium you're supposed to eat each day.

Like most food, mac & cheese eaten in moderation -- say, as a special family treat once a month, with some healthy vegetables on the side -- has a respectable place at the dinner table.

To make fabulous mac & cheese, keep these tips from the new book "Macaroni & Cheese," by Marlena Spieler (Chronicle Books, $16.95) in mind:

Allow lots of rapidly boiling water -- about 1 1/2 quarts per pound of dried pasta -- for cooking so pasta cooks evenly.

Macaroni with Moroccan-Spiced Butter and Shredded Goat or Sheep Cheese Click photo for larger image.

Be sure water is at a rolling boil before putting pasta in so that the outside edge of the pasta cooks immediately, or pasta will turn mushy.

Stir pasta immediately after putting it into the boiling water to keep it from sticking.

Use at least 1 tablespoon salt per quart of water to avoid making bland pasta. It sounds like a lot, but most of that salt is drained away with the cooking water.

Don't add oil to the cooking water; it weighs down the pasta.

To prevent gloppy mac & cheese, make sure you don't overcook the pasta. If you're eating the pasta right away, cook until it's al dente, or resists a bit when you bite it. If you're returning it to the stovetop to toss with cheeses and cook a bit longer, cook until it's almost al dente. If you'll be baking the mac & cheese as a casserole, cook pasta only until it has a tiny bit of crunch as you bite down on a piece -- this will take about two-thirds the recommended cooking time on the package.

Making mac & cheese can be as simple as boiling and draining pasta, shredding whatever cheeses you have on hand and tossing them together. But chunky macaroni such as elbow macaroni, shells, bowtie pasta and wheel-shaped rotelle work better than long, thin strands such as spaghetti for trapping delectable cheese sauce without clumping together. And to make superb mac & cheese, some cheeses are particularly good candidates, according to Ms. Spieler.

	Alpine Macaroni and Appenzeller with Creme Fraiche Click photo for larger image.

Consider using a combination of the following:

Mild and easily melted cheeses. Dutch Edam and Gouda, Bel Paese, Muenster, domestic or Danish fontina, Jack cheese, provolone and Provatura.

Swiss cheeses. Emmenthal, Appenzeller, Gruyere, Vacherin Fribourgeois, Norwegian Jarlsberg.

Firm and full-flavored cheeses. Dutch Gouda, Spanish manchego, Mahon, Idiazabal, Italian fontina, medium Asiago.

Cheddar. Vermont or Wisconsin cheddars; British cheddars including Montgomery's farmhouse cheddar, Gloucester, Cheshire, Leicester, Lancashire and Derby.

Hard, sharp cheeses. Parmesan, aged Asiago, Romano, pecorino, dry Jack, Sprinz.

Blue-veined cheeses. Roquefort, Bleu des Causses, Stilton, Gorgonzola, Cabrales, American Point Reyes, Maytag Blue, Danish and Swedish blues.

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YANKEE DOODLE DANDY BAKED MACARONI AND CHEESE

• 12 ounces large elbow macaroni, farfalle (bowtie pasta) or conchiglie (shells)
  
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter or 3 tablespoons butter plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  
• 3 tablespoons flour
  
• 3 cups hot, but not boiling, milk (low-fat is fine)
  
• 1 bay leaf
  
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
  
• 1/2 teaspoon paprika
  
• 1 tablespoon dry mustard
  
• 12 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
  
• 3 ounces mild white meltable cheese, such as Jack, gouda or kasseri, shredded
  
• 3 ounces sharp blue cheese, crumbled
  
• 1 cup dry bread crumbs, either homemade or unseasoned store-bought
  
• 1/2 onion, finely chopped
  
• 1 clove garlic, chopped (optional)
  
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan, pecorino or Sprinz cheese

Cook the pasta in a pot of rapidly boiling salted water until not quite tender -- just shy of al dente. Drain and set aside.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Melt 3 tablespoons of the butter in a heavy, nonstick saucepan and sprinkle with the flour. Cook for a minute or two, then stir with a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat and add the milk all at once, along with the bay leaf. Cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until the sauce thickens, about 5 to 7 minutes. If there are any lumps, remove the bay leaf and whisk with a wire whisk or whirl in a food processor. Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper, paprika and dry mustard.

Reserve 3 to 4 tablespoons of the cheddar and mild white cheese. Remove the bay leaf from the sauce if you haven't already, then stir in remaining cheddar, mild white cheese and blue cheese and set aside.

In a small frying pan, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter or olive oil and combine it with bread crumbs. Set aside.

In the bottom of a 1 1/2-quart baking dish with 4-inch sides, sprinkle 1 or 2 tablespoons of the reserved cheese. Add the onion and garlic to the cheese sauce.

Layer a third of the macaroni in the bottom of the pan, top with a third of the cheese sauce and repeat layers two more times, ending with the cheese sauce. Sprinkle with remaining shredded cheeses, then with the parmesan cheese and finally with the bread crumbs. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the top is crispy and browned in spots.

Macaroni and broccoli and cheese: For a yummy variation, add a layer or two of blanched broccoli florets as you assemble the casserole. End with a layer of broccoli before you top with cheese and crumbs. Bake as directed.

Serves 4.

-- "Macaroni & Cheese" by Marlena Spieler

OVER THE RAINBOW MACARONI AND CHEESE

• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  
• 1 pound elbow macaroni
  
• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) plus 1 tablespoon butter
  
• 1/2 cup (2 ounces) shredded Muenster cheese
  
• 1/2 cup (2 ounces) shredded mild cheddar cheese
  
• 1/2 cup (2 ounces) shredded sharp cheddar cheese
  
• 1/2 cup (2 ounces) shredded Monterey Jack
  
• 2 cups half-and-half
  
• 1 cup (8 ounces) Velveeta, cut into small cubes
  
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
  
• 1/4 teaspoon seasoned salt
  
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly butter a deep 2 1/2-quart casserole.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the oil, then the elbow macaroni, and cook until the macaroni is just tender, about 7 minutes. Do not overcook. Drain well. Return to the cooking pot.

In a small saucepan, melt 8 tablespoons of the butter. Stir into the macaroni. In a large bowl, mix the Muenster, mild and sharp cheddar and Monterey Jack cheeses. To the macaroni, add the half-and-half, 1 1/2 cups of the shredded cheese, the cubed Velveeta and the eggs. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to the buttered casserole. Sprinkle with the remaining 1/2 cup of shredded cheese and dot with the remaining one tablespoon of butter.

Bake until it's bubbling around the edges, about 35 minutes. Serve hot. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Note: It is sometimes difficult to buy some of the cheeses shredded. So we often buy blocks of the cheese, shred what's needed and freeze the rest for the next time we make this dish.

-- "LaBelle Cuisine: Recipes to Sing About" by Patti LaBelle, Laura B. Randolph and Laura Randolph Lancaster

PENNE CON CACIO E PEPE (PASTA WITH LOTS OF CHEESE AND BLACK PEPPER)

Use great-quality pasta, fabulous olive oil, freshly ground black pepper and strong, really wonderful cheese for this one. Since it's so simple, this dish is all about the ingredients, and the way the cheese and oil are combined before being tossed with the pasta.

• 1 pound penne
  
• 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, or more as needed
  
• 4 1/2 to 5 ounces pecorino romano or parmesan cheese, grated, plus a hunk for serving
  
• 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for serving
  
• Salt to taste, if necessary

Cook pasta in a large pot of rapidly boiling salted water until al dente. Drain and reserve about 1 cup of the cooking water.

While pasta is cooking, mix the oil with the cheese and pepper in a small to medium-size bowl; stir together well to make a cheesy melange; ladle in 1/2 cup or so of the hot water and mix well.

Return the drained pasta to the pot and add the cheese and oil mixture in several batches, tossing as you go. (Adding too much cheese at once will encourage it to clump together -- not nice!) Add a little more of the cooking liquid if the pasta seems dry. Serve right away in shallow soup bowls, warmed if possible. Pass the extra cheese, black pepper and salt for those who want an added kick.

Serves 4.

-- "Macaroni & Cheese" by Marlena Spieler

MACARONI'S GOT THE BLUES

For a tasty variation, trim 1/2 pound asparagus and cut into 3-inch pieces, then add to the cooking pasta during the last minute or two. Drain and sauce along with pasta.

• 1/4 cup pine nuts
  
• 8 ounces fine, briny pungent blue cheese such as Point Reyes Blue, Maytag Blue or Roquefort, crumbled
  
• 1/3 cup heavy cream or mascarpone
  
• 3 tablespoons good-quality pesto, homemade or store-bought
  
• 12 ounces tubular pasta, such as penne; or flat noodles or ribbons, such as tagliatelle; or trofie (knot-shaped)

Lightly toast the pine-nuts in a heavy nonstick frying pan over medium heat until the pine nuts turn golden-brown in spots. Remove from heat and pour into a bowl or plate.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the blue cheese with the cream and pesto. Set aside.

Cook the pasta in a large pot of rapidly boiling salted water until al dente. Drain and reserve about 1/4 cup of the cooking water.

Toss the hot pasta with the blue cheese, cream and pesto in a large bowl, adding a few spoonfuls of the hot cooking water to bind the sauce to the pasta.

Sprinkle with toasted pine nuts and serve right away on warmed plates.

Serves 4.

-- "Macaroni & Cheese" by Marlena Spieler

MINESTRONE AL PESTO CON FORMAGGIO (VEGETABLE SOUP WITH PESTO AND CHEESE)

• 4 ounces ditalini or small shells
  
• 1 onion, chopped
  
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  
• 1 quart vegetable or chicken broth, homemade or canned
  
• 1 cup dry white wine
  
• 1 prosciutto bone, or a few ounces diced prosciutto or another Italian cured meat (optional)
  
• 4 to 5 cabbage leaves, thinly sliced
  
• 1 carrot, thinly sliced
  
• 1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes, or about 2 cups diced fresh tomatoes
  
• 1 zucchini, sliced fairly thickly
  
• 3 to 4 ounces fresh spinach leaves, coarsely chopped, or 1/2 cup cooked and drained frozen chopped spinach
  
• Handful of green beans, cut into bite-sized pieces
  
• 1/4 cup fresh young peas, blanched, or frozen peas (no need to defrost or blanch)
  
• 1/2 cup cooked cannellini beans (canned are fine), drained
  
• Large pinch thyme, fresh or dried
  
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  
• About 6 ounces fontina, Jack, provolone, young (medium) Asiago, or gruyere cheese, cut into thick, slab-like slices
  
• 1/2 cup pesto, homemade or store-bought
  
• 2 to 3 ounces parmesan, pecorino, aged Asiago, or dry Jack cheese, grated

Cook pasta in a pot of rapidly boiling salted water until al dente; drain and set aside.

Lightly saute the onion and garlic in the olive oil until softened, about 5 to 8 minutes.

Add the broth and white wine, and the bone or prosciutto (if using).

Cook for about 10 minutes, then add the cabbage, carrot and tomatoes and continue to soak for about 30 minutes, or until the vegetables are very tender, especially the cabbage.

Add the zucchini, spinach, green beans and peas and cook for 10 to 15 minutes; then add cannellini and thyme.

Season with salt and pepper, if needed.

Into each bowl, place a slab of cheese, then a big spoonful of pasta and a dab of pesto.

Ladle hot soup over all and sprinkle top with parmesan. Serve at once.

Serves 4.

-- "Macaroni & Cheese" by Marlena Spieler

DELICIOUSLY TRASHY MAC AND CHEESE WITH AN EXTRA HIT OF MUSTARD AND PICKLED JALAPENOS

• 12 ounces small elbow macaroni
  
• 8 ounces evaporated milk
  
• 12 ounces sharp, mature cheddar cheese, shredded
  
• 6 ounces Jack or similar cheese, such as Gouda, shredded
  
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan or a similar hard grating cheese
  
• 1 or 2 shakes hot sauce, such as Tabasco
  
• 4 to 6 tablespoons sour cream or Greek yogurt
  
• 1/4 cup Dijon mustard, or to taste
  
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste (optional)
  
• 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon paprika, or to taste
  
• 1/4 cup pickled jalapenos, or as desired, chopped, sliced or left whole

Cook pasta in a large pot of rapidly boiling salted water until al dente and drain.

In a large heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat evaporated milk over medium heat until bubbles form around the edge.

Reduce heat to low. Toss in pasta, then sprinkle in the cheeses in 3 or 4 batches, tossing the macaroni with the cheese after each addition so cheese melts.

Add hot sauce, sour cream, Dijon, and salt and pepper if needed.

Warm through and sprinkle in the paprika.

Serve the mac and cheese with the chopped or sliced jalapenos scattered on top, or serve with the whole jalapenos alongside.

You could even pour the complete dish, without the jalapenos, into a large, deep baking dish and bake at 350 degrees for 30 to 35 minutes or until the top is crusty. But I think the appeal of this recipe is the speed with which you can throw it together.

Serves 4.

-- "Macaroni & Cheese" by Marlena Spieler

MACARONI WITH MOROCCAN-SPICED BUTTER AND SHREDDED GOAT OR SHEEP CHEESE

• 1 large dried mild red chile, such as ancho or New Mexico, ground in a clean coffee grinder; or about 2 teaspoons pure red mild chile powder
  
• 5 to 8 green onions (white and green parts), thinly sliced
  
• 3 to 5 cloves garlic, crushed
  
• 1 tablespoon paprika
  
• 1 tablespoon ground cumin
  
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
  
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
  
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
  
• 3 to 4 tablespoons fresh cilantro
  
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter at room temperature
  
• 1/4 cup to 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon or lime juice
  
• Salt to taste
  
• 12 ounces small tubular pasta or farfalline (small butterflies), or smallish to medium rigatoni
  
• 6 ounces hard grating goat or sheep cheese, such as pecorino, crottin, or Myzithra, shaved or coarsely shredded

Combine the red chile powder with the green onions, garlic, paprika, cumin, coriander, parsley, mint and cilantro in a food processor and whirl together.

Add butter in chunks and whirl until it all forms a smooth, creamy mixture. Add lemon juice and season with salt. Set aside. If storing for more than an hour, refrigerate.

Cook the pasta in a large pot of rapidly boiling salted water until al dente. Drain, saving about 1/4 cup of the cooking liquid.

Toss the hot macaroni with as much of the butter as desired. (Any leftover butter is delicious melted onto grilled chicken, fish or burgers.)

Sprinkle about half the cheese on the hot macaroni and toss gently. Then serve in bowls with the remaining cheese sprinkled on top. Eat right away.

Serves 4.

-- "Macaroni & Cheese" by Marlena Spieler

ALPINE MACARONI AND APPENZELLER WITH CREME FRAICHE

• 12 ounces smallish macaroni, such as elbows or pennette
  
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  
• 1 shallot, chopped
  
• 10 to 12 ounces Appenzeller, Emmenthal, Gruyere or Comte cheese, shredded
  
• 4 ounces creme fraiche, or as desired
  
• Grated fresh nutmeg
  
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  
• 2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

Cook pasta in a large pot of rapidly boiling salted water until it is al dente. Drain and reserve about 1 cup of the cooking liquid.

Return hot pasta to the pan immediately, and toss with garlic, shallot, shredded cheese sprinkled evenly over the top, creme fraiche, nutmeg, salt and pepper, and butter.

Ladle in about 1/4 cup of the cooking liquid and toss gently. If the cheese doesn't melt right away, turn the heat to low for a few moments; the cooking liquid should help produce a light, saucy coating of cheese for the pasta. If it seems dry, ladle in a bit more of the liquid.

Serves 4.

-- "Macaroni & Cheese" by Marlena Spieler

CICATELLI WITH PUMPKIN AND SAGE

• 1 pound pumpkin, hubbard or butternut squash, peeled, or kabocha (unpeeled, if desired) cut into bite-size pieces (about 3/4 inch in size)
  
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter or extra-virgin olive oil
  
• 8 to 10 young, flavorful sage leaves, thinly sliced
  
• 6 cloves garlic, chopped
  
• 8 ounces cicatelli or small shell pasta
  
• 3 to 5 tablespoons creme fraiche, or as desired
  
• 6 ounces fontina or another white flavorful cheese, shredded
  
• 4 to 6 tablespoons freshly grated aged Asiago or parmesan cheese
  
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  
• 4 ounces prosciutto or serrano ham, cut into strips or diced

Lightly saute the pumpkin in 3 tablespoons of the butter over medium-low heat until it browns lightly in spots and becomes tender, but not mushy. About halfway through the cooking time, add half the sage and garlic. Set aside.

Cook pasta in a large pot of rapidly boiling salted water until al dente. Drain and save about 1/4 cup of the cooking liquid.

Toss the hot pasta with the hot sauteed pumpkin and spoon in the creme fraiche and half the cheese. Toss together over a medium-low heat on the stove with a few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid. Add rest of cheese, toss with pasta, then toss in remaining 1 tablespoon butter, sage and garlic and season with salt and pepper.

Serve immediately, sprinkled with prosciutto.

Serves 4.

-- "Macaroni & Cheese," by Marlena Spieler

DR. ESTHER'S LOKSHEN KUGEL WITH APPLE, GOLDEN RAISINS AND COTTAGE CHEESE

• 12 ounces wide flat noodles, preferably egg noodles
  
• 8 to 10 tablespoons unsalted butter
  
• 8 to 12 ounces cottage cheese
  
• 3 eggs, lightly beaten
  
• 2 apples, unpeeled, coarsely shredded
  
• 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  
• 1 cup sugar
  
• 1/2 cup golden raisins
  
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

Cook pasta in a large pot of rapidly boiling salted water until just tender, then drain and return to pot.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Melt butter in a small saucepan. Add melted butter and the remaining ingredients to the noodles and toss gently to combine.

Pour into a large shallow baking pan and bake for about 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until top is crusty and brown. Eat hot or cold.

Serves 4.

-- "Macaroni & Cheese," by Marlena Spieler