It was in the eyes -- a crazed, intent look that registered somewhere between the zealotry of a street evangelist and the psychosis of Tom Cruise.

Munch knew to be cautious as he approached and braced for the words that would come.

"You have to go to Chipotle."

This admonishment came from co-worker of Munch, but who, for purposes of this piece shall be called the High Priest of the Chipotle Cult Friend of Munch.

Munch had heard of the Southwestern-style chain that started in Colorado but hadn't been seen any closer than Washington, D.C. That changed recently with the opening of a location in the Pointe at North Fayette. A second one will open on Forbes Avenue in Oakland next month.

But before HPCCFOM was going to drag Munch's butt from the city all the way out the Parkway West, some important concerns needed to be addressed. Namely:

1. But isn't Chipotle owned by McDonald's?

"Even Jesus ran with the sinners," he said, explaining that Mayor McCheese had in fact at one time bought a controlling share in the franchise but had since divested its interest.

"Chipotle cannot be tainted by the arches," he added.

2. But I'm Munch, I said. I'm the fun-lovin', party paper bag head. I only go to places that have french fries in a balsamic reduction and beers made from organic wheatgrass and boysenberries on a Belgian co-op. I don't do fast food.

"It is not fast food. It is excellent food prepared in an expedient manner."

3. But I've been to Qdoba. And Baja Fresh. Isn't it pretty much the same thing?

At this point, he winced with disgust and rolled his eyes with contempt. He visibly restrained himself from hitting me.

"It's not even in the same league. It's not even the same sport," he said, echoing Sam Jackson in "Pulp Fiction." What followed was a 10-minute dissertation about how the strength of Chipotle is the ingredients it uses, which he said include fresh vegetables, beans and meats. The high priest concluded his sermon. We ordered.

The menu is simple. Chipotle makes three things: burritos, tacos and salad, which can be had with chicken, steak, carnitas (seasoned and braised pork), barbacoa (spicy shredded braised beef) and vegetarian (all $5.25-$5.75).

Throw in black beans, cheese and a few different kinds of salsas -- roasted chili corn, tomatillo-chili, fresh tomato -- and you're done.

Munch had a barbacoa burrito with black beans, roasted chili corn salsa and rice, inside of a soft pillow of a fresh tortilla. The meat was tender and spicy as promised, with a bit of bite, the beans tasty, the salsa cooling.

It was as fine a burrito as Munch has tasted from a fast -- errr -- expedient food joint. Cheap, tasty, healthy -- the holy trinity of good dining. And while Munch still prefers authentic Mexican to the Americanized fare, consider Munch a convert.

Chipotle is at 300 McHolme Drive, Robinson; 412-787-3227.