Although no scholar of local history, Munch has heard the oft-repeated "fact" that during the earlier part of the past century, Pittsburgh claimed home to more Italian-Americans than any other city after New York and Chicago.

And while exhaustive research by Munch (Google) failed to turn up any verifiable truth to that statistic, the legacy of Italian ancestry is widely visible throughout our region, if for no other reason than it seems every single one of their remaining relatives has opened a restaurant.

This is not a complaint. Italian cuisine is among Munch's favorites. But good Italian can be found in copious amounts and styles around Pittsburgh, so the addition of yet another Italian restaurant can be as yawn-inducing as televised poker.

Such was Munch's reaction to Folino's Ristorante, which opened in the past year. For the unfamiliar, it could best be described as "that new Italian place in between Tom's Diner and that bar where Sienna Miller threw a hissy fit."

In fact, it is the youngest sibling of both of those establishments, as the Folino family -- longtime owners of Tom's -- have begun a dining and nightlife empire on the 1700 block of Carson Street by first resurrecting the century-old Young's Tavern (site of the Sienna tete-e-tete), then purchasing and gutting the old South Side Card & Gifts store and transforming it into the Ristorante.

Munch admits to a healthy amount of trepidation upon entering a finer dining establishment operated by the proprietors of Tom's Diner. Not that Munch doesn't love the gyro omelette special -- it's just that said omelette, along with the rest of Tom's menu, tastes best between the hours of 2 and 4 a.m., soaking up a belly-full-a-beer.

Skepticism melted away like the Steelers postseason dreams as soon as Munch entered the door into a duskly lit, warmly hued dining room, decorated with attractive artwork, along with some Christmas season touches. Immediately it strikes as a cozy, intimate place for a date, though Munch, too often a loser in the game of love, dined alone.

But cry not for the amore-less diner Munch, however, as the menu of traditional Italian favorites and quiet ambience was company enough.

Like any respectable Pittsburgher, Munch began the evening's proceedings with a comforting cup of wedding soup ($3), which went nicely with the complementary order of crostinis -- toasted baguette slices with melted cheese and diced tomatoes.

While neither terribly adventurous, nor experimental, the menu is thorough. All of the Italian classics are represented here, including Chicken Romano, Alfredo and Marsala ($13-$15); Veal Picatta, Scaloppine and Parmesean ($15-$16); pasta staples like Ravioli, Spaghetti and Lasagna ($10-12) and seafood such as Frutti di Mare and Shrimp Diavolo ($16-$18).

Folino's has a full bar, and Munch sipped a glass of Red, while noshing on a tasty appetizer of Ciabatta bread, stuffed with portobello mushrooms, zucchini and roasted red peppers ($7.95) before settling on the Gnocchi ($11).

The little potato balls were well prepared, with just the right amount of stickiness; the marinara solid.

It put Munch in mind of the old familiar place from Billy Joel's "Scenes From an Italian Restaurant" or possibly even the quiet family joint where Michael Corleone took care of Virgil Sollozzo, although Munch saw no evidence of any whackings about to transpire.

It is a much classier, more dressed-up and urban version of the homestyle family Italian restaurants that seemingly dot every Pittsburgh suburb. Nicely decorated, with impeccable service and decent prices -- it's a good addition to a classic concept.

Folino's is at 1719 E. Carson St., South Side. Call 412-488-8108 or log on to www.eatatfolinos.com.