The first thing you notice walking into Trader Joe's, the new grocery chain opening tomorrow in East Liberty, isn't the food or the prices, although we'll get to them in a minute.

	Robin Rombach, Post-Gazette photos Employees stock the shelves of the new Trader Joe's in East Liberty, which has included local touches, such as replicas of three Pittsburgh bridges. Click photo for larger image. If you go to Trader Joe's Trader Joe's is located at 6343 Penn Ave., East Liberty, in the former Wheeler's Paints store. Phone: 412-363-5748.

It's those cunning, miniature yellow bridges, replicas of the three suspension bridges linking Downtown with the city's North Side, that span the grocery aisles -- just a few of the playful local references that turn what might otherwise be a bland supermarket space into something fun.

Trader Joe's overarching theme might be generic island paradise/nautical (staffers wear Hawaiian shirts and are called "crew" members, while the manager is a "commander"), but there are plenty of Pittsburgh-specific touches, too, courtesy of local artists.

There's a corner display replicating Mt. Washington, complete with an incline, as well as a sign for $4.49 frozen pork tenderloin which says "good with sauerkraut n'at." And the huge wall mural painting featuring Pittsburgh's nighttime skyline is "exactly the view from my condo apartment," says Patrick Brandon, the store's 36-year-old "commander," who hails from Los Angeles but declares he plans to stay here for good.

It's all part of the California-based chain's efforts to brand itself as "your neighborhood grocery store," albeit one with some seriously cool foodstuffs -- 80 percent marketed under Trader Joe's own label -- that range from basic to exotic, and many of which can't be found anywhere else, at least for the price.

Thanks to direct dealings with manufacturers and elimination, when possible, of the middleman, "the price of this bag of frozen strawberries hasn't gone up in 10 years," Mr. Brandon said, proudly pointing to a 16-ounce, $1.69 package of the fruit. He then beckoned the reporter to view his own choice for dinner when he's too tired to cook -- a bag of frozen Mandarin orange chicken pieces ($4.99 for 22 ounces).

Katie Sheir, a manager at the new Trader Joe's in East Liberty, goes over the flowers for sale at the store. Click photo for larger image.

Indeed, a quick tour earlier this week of the 10,500-square-foot facility at 6343 Penn Ave., site of the old Wheeler's Paint Store, uncovered some real foodie treasures. The baked goods section wasn't quite ready yet, nor the produce section, nor the fresh meats and poultry, but the cereal, coffee and frozen dinner aisles were pretty much ready to go in preparation for tomorrow's opening at 9 a.m. sharp.

There were frozen green beans direct from France ($1.99 for 1 1/2 pounds), whole organic chicken (actually, the chicken wasn't there yet, but the sign said $2.49 a pound), and a large frozen chicken breast stuffed with cranberries and almonds ($2.99).

There's a dizzying array of frozen party food, including a miniquiche assortment ($4.69 for 18 quiches) and a huge New York-style cheesecake ($9.99 for 56 ounces).

There's "Trader Giotto" chocolate gelato ($3.49 for a half gallon) and clever Patisserie de France frozen sorbet stuffed in scooped-out lemon and orange shells (four for $4.49). There are 54 kinds of coffee, most of them Trader Joe's own brands, ranging from French Roast ($4.99 for 12 ounces) to ultragourmet Kona ($19.99 for 13 ounces).

There are basics, too, such as eggs, milk and orange juice ($1.99 for a half gallon; $3.49 for organic), and while the milk and butter aren't produced from cows treated with hormones, their prices are competitive with conventional brands at other area supermarkets. Shoppers have some degree of choice, too: Meats and poultry are kosher, organic or conventional.

	Patrick Orr samples food offered for employees at the new Trader Joe's in East Liberty. Each day, employees taste some of the products sold at the store so they know what they're selling. Click photo for larger image.

Is Trader Joe's perfect? No. The Pittsburgh store is much smaller than many of the chain's other stores, which might mean, ultimately, less selection and more crowding in the aisles.

Health nuts won't find fish oil in giant "family size" bottles but rather in smaller containers.

Food snobs in search of the very best olive oil might not fancy "Trader Giotto's" olive oil at $5.99, preferring instead to seek out McEvoy Ranch's pricier version at Whole Foods, at more than $20 a bottle.

And if you've visited a Trader Joe's in a state with less restrictive liquor laws, you'll probably miss the wine and beer. Charles Shaw's "Two Buck Chuck" wine ($2.99) developed quite a following nationally, but you won't find it here.

The cereal section presents a special dilemma. Will Trader Joe's "Joe's O's" ($2.29 for a 15-ounce box) really taste as good as Cheerios, or the other, more expensive General Mills, Quaker Oats or Post brands, which aren't available in the store but can be found at your local Giant Eagle? We'll see.

But for busy working families who like to try new things and people on a tight budget, this new entry into Pittsburgh's lively supermarket scene seems like a great fit.

Don't hesitate over that chocolate truffle cake ($5.99 for 15 ounces), though. Trader Joe's introduces 1,000 new products a year, and it might be gone tomorrow.

But something else just as good will probably take its place.

Tarte Tatin for $6.99, anyone?