What you see isn't necessarily what you get, the old saying goes.

And that's true at the major fashion shows held around the world in early fall and winter each year.

	This blue ombre chiffon gown will be in stores but with a higher neckline. Retail buyers felt their customers would want to show less cleavage. Click photo for larger image.

In a typical New York runway presentation, for example, spectators see dozens of looks in a span of 12 to 15 minutes. But they won't necessarily be able to buy it all in stores later.

Designers often alter some designs at the request of retailers. In other cases, a designer might cut a favorite item from production because there's little retail interest -- or it's too complicated to complete on tight deadlines.

In fact, everything shown on a runway is seldom meant to be interpreted literally.

"A lot of what we see on the runway is a designer's vision," said Dina Turner Relkin, fashion editor for sportswear at The Tobe Report, a New York-based group of fashion and retail analysts and trend forecasters.

"It's sort of an expression of their creative process, and it's not always to be taken so literally," she said. "There are a lot of designers who put pieces on the runway that are simply put on the runway for editorial purposes -- it's an expression of what they're trying to achieve. What most customers don't know is that fashion is a business, and just because a designer shows a brand new silhouette doesn't always mean that the silhouette of the season is going to look exactly like that."

This washed shantung safari jacket will remain basically as shown, but the hem on the floral print chiffon skirt will be lowered to the knee. Customers can have a skirt shortened, but they can't make it longer. Click photo for larger image.

Consider Pamella Roland's spring 2007 collection, which debuted Sept. 11 at Olympus Fashion Week. Inspired by the natural beauty of the Galapagos Islands, the 44 outfits designed by Pamela DeVos were pretty, feminine and wearable.

But the audience never saw close to 20 looks that were eliminated from the show before it began. And only 38 of the outfits shown to the public will be manufactured for sale, said Kenneth Marks, director of sales and marketing for Pamella Roland.

"It's really difficult to edit a collection," he said. "It's tough because you have so many pretty things and your production people tell you that you have to tighten it up because they have to deliver it. And that's key to our success -- to have on-time deliveries."

Critical deadlines highlight the important business side of what many in the public perceive primarily as a creative, entertaining, glamorous profession. Yet fashion is an industry fueled by the necessity of clothing and an almost insatiable desire for newness, tempered by what buyers for fashion retail stores think their customers will purchase.

When a collection is shown, it's up to buyers to look "with an analytical eye" so that they can work with designers to settle on clothes that not only showcase but aid "how the customer is ultimately going to understand it."

	This white cotton plisse shirt dress will show up in stores next spring just as presented. And it will be available in black, too. Only two stores that sell Pamella Roland did not order the summery frock. Click photo for larger image.

Usually, buyers will request that changes be made in a runway outfit to make them more marketable to their customers. That may include, for example, lowering hemlines on skirts, raising necklines, adding straps or changing the sleeves.

Unfortunately, Ms. Relkin added, too many buyers aren't willing to take a risk with more fashion-forward looks.

Once retailers have ordered, designers begin production. Pieces likely to be too time-consuming to manufacture in relation to cost are among the first edited out, along with pieces least requested by retailers (which sometimes end up on the trunk-show circuit and can be special-ordered by customers.)

Paring a line is critical because trying to produce too many different looks could result in delivery delays to retailers, which in turn could be business suicide for a designer, said Mr. Marks.

Fashion retailers rely on designers to deliver the goods on time because they allot a specific amount of money and floor space to each brand. In Pamella Roland's case, that means satisfying Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom and almost two dozen specialty stores in the United States and abroad.

No merchandise means no money. And rather than lose dollars -- and possibly customers -- waiting for late items to arrive, a merchant will find a replacement.

The price to a designer? Credibility, loss of sales and perhaps a financial penalty under terms of their contract.

"It's all about owning your real estate," said Mr. Marks.

By the time the spring '07 shows ended Sept. 15, many American designers had already begun designing for the following fall. At Pamella Roland, some employees went to Paris to buy fabric for next autumn's collection while others helped retailers from across the country place orders.

When designs finally hit the streets, celebrities are often the first to wear them. And while designers go to great lengths to make sure two stars don't end up at the same function in the same frock, it's been known to happen.

It happened this year to Pamella Roland, who in only four years of design has dressed stars ranging from Angelina Jolie, Nicolette Sheridan, Sharon Stone and Virginia Madsen to Kim Cattrall, Jennifer Garner, Paris Hilton and Beyonce.

After buying a Roland gown to wear to this year's Academy Awards, Oprah best-buddy Gail King decided to wear something else. Meanwhile, the designer was working with actress Alfre Woodard on the same gown for the Tony Awards several months later.

On June 11, both Ms. King and Ms. Woodard showed up at the Tonys in the goddessy orange dress. Several entertainment magazines had a field day comparing and contrasting the photos.

Thankfully, Mr. Marks said, there was no venom or vitriol between the two women.

"They couldn't have been more gracious about it."