Munch remembers it oh so well.

It was springtime in Market Square. The birds were singing, the leaves were readying to bud, when Munch spotted the one thing that always thrills Munch's heart: a new restaurant. It was not just any restaurant, a hot dog place, and not just any hot dog place, but one that murders the English language with its name: Dogs Dun Wright.

Munch could hardly wait to try it. But wait Munch had to.

Munch had offered to take a special friend, the friend who introduced Munch to the late Yovi's Taste of Chicago, which used to be Downtown near the corner of Liberty and Seventh, but is now gone. Munch was so sad to see Yovi's go. It disappeared one night, while Munch was waiting to go to Dogs Dun Wright.

But Hot Dog Loving Friend of Munch (HDLFOM) had a meeting one day, a story to work on another day. She had to leave early to get a kid from school and thus could not have lunch. There were other excuses -- she had to clean the lint baffle in her spin dryer, check the pressure in her tires, look for loose change under her desk. As spring turned to summer and summer turned to fall, Yovi's closed and Munch still hadn't had one of the new dogs in town.

Finally last week, the stars aligned (unfortunately on the same day the heavens opened), and so Munch and HDLFOM walked through the rain on one of the first chilly days of fall to grab a couple of dogs.

And what could be wrong with this place? It's so Pittsburgh.

The decor consists of black and gold pennants strung across the ceiling and a poster of Muhammad Ali. Even the menu, black printing with a gold border, has the classic Pittsburgh touch on the back, under the words "a proud member of Steeler Nation," it gives the address as 210 Forbes Avenue, Market Square, and then, the ultimate Pittsburghism, "Across from GC Murphy Co." referencing a store that closed 12 years ago.

The food is perfect for Pittsburgh; when Munch ordered a dog, the man behind the counter asked what kind. He was not referring to a chili-dog versus a plain weiner. Instead, he opened the covers on the steam table, and there, waiting for Munch were all beef dogs, fat dogs, dogs still in the casing (which Munch loves) and kielbasa. Munch suddenly had one of those Homer Simpson moments, drooling and dreaming of all of those hot dogs.

Munch went for the dog still in the casing with ketchup and onions (Munch's friends have to be very understanding). HDLFOM went for the fat dog with ketchup and relish.

The dogs are served on those cool buns that look like two conjoined slices of Wonderbread. They even put the buns in a grill machine to warm them. The casing dog did have that nice crisp snap when bitten, but it could have had a better blend of spices. This dog was a tad too tame. Not that there was anything wrong, really. Munch and HDLFOM didn't really have time to savor the dogs, they were eaten that quickly.

Each of the dogs cost $2.50. We added an order of pierogi ($3) to split and a couple of waters. The pierogi, served with cooked onions, were good: greasy, but good. But really, again, how can you serve bad pierogi? Potatoes and sour cream in a dumpling: what can be wrong? It was a quick meal, so HDLFOM could come up with some excuse for hurrying back to work, and it was cheap. Munch picked up the tab for both members of the party at a total of $8. Fast, good and cheap -- three things that Munch hopes will keep Dogs Dun Wright in Market Square for at least as long as GC Murphy has been gone.

Dogs Dun Wright, 210 Forbes Ave., Downtown in Market Square. Lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. 412-391-0660.