When you're cooking in a new situation, especially in front of people, you really, really don't want to mess up.

	Nell Redmond photos Peter Reinhart, chef at Johnson & Wales University, and Jennifer Biggs of the Memphis Commercial Appeal spread pizza sauce during a cooking class for members of the Association of Food Journalists earlier this month in Charlotte, N.C. Click photo for larger image.

That's why nearly everyone in my cooking class at Johnson & Wales University's culinary school -- part of a recent conference of the Association of Food Journalists in Charlotte, N.C. -- was politely but insistently harassing our chef-instructor, Chef Michael Calenda, for details on exactly how to make the rack of lamb persillade, veal saltimbocca, wild mushroom risotto and other dishes we were preparing for lunch for each other and for our instructors.

"How long should I sear this rack of lamb?"

"Should I add some more broth to the risotto now?"

"How thinly should I pound the veal?"

Follow the recipe, but also use your own best judgment, Chef Calenda said. Baking often requires precision akin to a chemistry experiment, but cooking is supposed to be subjective and creative, he said.

Jeff Houck, food writer at The Tampa Tribune, prepares a rack of lamb as he participates in a cooking class. Click photo for larger image.

"That's why they call it a culinary art, not a culinary science," he said.

Now, this was a group of about 75 food editors and professional food writers, people who cook and write about cooking for a living -- including me -- worrying about their performance and asking anxious questions. So it's not surprising that lots of Post-Gazette readers -- mostly regular people with noncooking day jobs -- call me asking the same kinds of questions about recipes they've seen in our paper, in magazines and on TV.

Exactly how long should a chicken roast? When the recipe directions say to saute a chopped onion until it's translucent, how long does that take? Can I substitute onions for shallots, garlic powder for fresh minced garlic?

Talking with readers is one of the best parts of my job, and I never mind getting questions like those. But I've often thought to myself -- and was reminded of it during my cooking session with Mr. Calenda -- that it's important to relax, experiment a little bit and, most importantly, have fun when you cook.

Now, I know nobody wants to ruin dinner and waste time and money on ruined ingredients. I feel the same way. But even well-written recipes often require interpretation, judgment and common sense, and whether or not a recipe works sometimes is purely a matter of taste (pun intended). And we're all better cooks than we give ourselves credit for being, so true disaster is unlikely.

Anyway, what's the worst that could happen? If disaster does strike, think about what went wrong, learn from your mistake and call the local pizza joint.

	Salt Lake Tribune writer Kathy Stephenson mixes tomatoes. Click photo for larger image.

So (aside from baking, when you really should follow the recipe to the letter) listen to yourself and follow your instincts when you cook.

If that chicken seems too pink, back in the oven it goes. If the onions seem crunchy, keep sauteing -- and conversely, if they're beginning to blacken along the edges, turn down the heat even if the recipe says otherwise. No time to shop for shallots and mince fresh garlic? Fine, use what you've got this time and it will still taste good.

And as in many other situations, the answer to cooking well is to ignore your mother: Play with your food when you cook.

When we're busy, sometimes we prepare meals just to fill our family members' stomachs. But just a few extra moments and a slightly different attitude can turn utter drudgery -- "now I must make dinner" -- into artistic expression -- "this smells and tastes delicious." (And yes, I'm reminding myself of this, too.)

So get into your cooking -- literally. Put your snout right down there into the stew pot or saute pan (but not too close) and take a big sniff. Sniff it again and then immediately sniff the herb or vegetable in your hand, as you consider whether to add it. Do the flavors seem to go together? If so, throw some in. If not, try a different combination.

Taste your concoction a few times and really pause to consider what's in your mouth. Too sweet? Add a little salt or sour or heat to balance it. Too bland? Try some herbs or a little spice or some salt and pepper to punch it up. Does it just need some indefinable something? A little broth can help, and so can a clove of minced garlic.

Or try something unexpected. Cinnamon can add a nice touch to savory, peppery dishes. Conversely, a few dashes of cayenne make sweet vegetable dishes such as squash and pumpkin and sweet potatoes and corn more complex and interesting. If you're worried about the results, scoop up a bit of the dish you're about to experiment with, and add just a touch of the experimental ingredient. Like it? Add it. Hate it? Skip it.

The process will make you a more confident cook, make you feel more in control of and relaxed about what you're doing and consequently will help you enjoy what otherwise is just another task before bedtime.

As Chef Calenda said, cooking is a creative act, an art, even when you're just following a recipe. That makes you the artist, you know.

So relax, enjoy the palate you have to play with, and delicious things will happen.

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RACK OF LAMB PERSILLADE

PG TESTED

This lamb dish sounds complicated, but it's truly simple and makes an elegant main dish for a dinner party.

• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  
• 4 racks of lamb, French trimmed (get the butcher to do this for you)
  
• 4 cups bread crumbs
  
• 4 ounces (about 1/2 cup) parsley
  
• 2 eggs
  
• 2 ounces (about 1/4 cup) whole-grain mustard
  
• 12 shallots
  
• 12 cloves garlic, peeled
  
• 1/2 cup brown sugar
  
• 8 tablespoons cold butter, diced
  
• 1 cup ruby port
  
• 4 cups brown stock
  
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Heat oil in a pan and sear lamb until golden brown.

Place shallots and garlic onto a sheet of aluminum foil and sprinkle with the brown sugar and butter. Gather sides together at top and twist to seal. Roast in foil parcel for 30 minutes or until golden brown.

In a pan, bring port and brown stock to boil, simmer until it has reduced by half, and season.

In a food processor or blender, blend bread crumbs, parsley and egg until fine, then season. Brush mustard onto lamb and coat with bread crumb mixture. Place lamb on rack over sheet pan. Lower oven temperature and roast lamb at 325 for about 20 minutes or until an internal temperature of 135 to 140 degrees is achieved. Let rack rest for 10 minutes and then cut into individual chops.

To serve, place 2 or 3 chops on each plate and arrange shallots and garlic around. Drizzle port sauce around the plate.

Serves 8 to 10.

-- Johnson & Wales University

BRIAMI (GREEK VEGETABLE CASSEROLE)

PG TESTED

• 1 eggplant
  
• 2 pounds zucchini (approximately 4)
  
• 4 potatoes
  
• 2 green peppers
  
• 1 red pepper
  
• 2 onions
  
• 1 cup olive oil
  
• 4 tomatoes
  
• 2 garlic cloves
  
• 1 teaspoon sugar
  
• Salt and pepper to taste

Cut eggplant, zucchini and potatoes into bite-sized chunks (do not peel eggplant or zucchini). Remove stems and seeds from peppers and slice them into strips. Peel and slice onions. Dice tomatoes.

Saute vegetables, except tomatoes, in olive oil in small batches. Saute each batch for 2 to 3 minutes and then remove from pan, trying to drain some of the oil as you remove vegetables so that enough oil is left for the next batch. When you are finished, most (if not all) of the oil should be gone from the pan.

Place the sauteed vegetables in a baking dish and toss briefly to mix.

Add tomatoes to pan and saute for a couple of minutes. Crush garlic and add to tomatoes. Add sugar, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for another few minutes.

Pour tomato sauce on top of vegetables and bake until vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.

Serve with plenty of fresh bread and feta cheese on the side.

Serves 6.

-- Johnson & Wales University

WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO

PG TESTED

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
  
• 1 cup button mushrooms, diced
  
• 1 1/2 cups shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, diced
  
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
  
• 1 teaspoon fresh oregano, chopped
  
• 1 1/2 cups Madeira wine, divided
  
• 6 cups chicken stock or canned low-salt chicken broth
  
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
  
• 1 large onion, chopped
  
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
  
• 2 cups (about 13 ounces) Arborio rice or other medium-grain rice
  
• 1 cup freshly grated Asiago cheese

Heat oil in large, nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add all mushrooms, thyme and oregano and saute until mushrooms are tender, about 10 minutes. Add 1/2 cup Madeira; simmer until almost absorbed, about 1 minute. Set aside.

Bring stock to simmer in large saucepan; remove from heat and cover. Melt butter in a heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic; saute until onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add rice; stir 2 minutes. Add remaining 1 cup Madeira; simmer until absorbed, about 2 minutes. Add 1 cup hot stock; simmer until almost absorbed, stirring often, about 3 minutes.

Continue to cook until rice is just tender and mixture is creamy, adding more stock by cupfuls, stirring often and allowing most stock to be absorbed before adding more, about 25 minutes. Stir in cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to serving bowl. Pass additional cheese if desired.

Serves 8.

-- Johnson & Wales University