This fall's fashions, like recent trends in food, are all about the big "O" -- organic.

Robin Rombach, Post-Gazette photos Miyoshi wears a W. Kleinberg belt ($325) over a Chanel jacket ($5,190) and Saks Fifth Avenue private label turtleneck ($198) with Missoni pants ($260), Saks leather gloves ($165) and Chanel sunglasses ($335) and cuffed boots ($1,250); at Saks, Downtown. Vic wears an Armani Collezioni charcoal gray-striped suit ($1,895) with an Armani Collezioni geometric-patterned cotton shirt ($215), reversible silk dotted pocket square ($30) and Magnanni shoes ($210) at Larrimor's, Downtown and Mt. Lebanon. Click photo for larger image. Related article Fashion Week gears up to present the usual and unusual

The theme runs like a thread through colors, fabrics and construction. Colors and fabrics are more serious and understated this fall and winter, with painstaking attention to design, drape and movement for silhouettes that are traditional and structured, yet modern and comfortable.

Womenswear designer Dana Buchman described the season's signature colors as "more muted and natural in feeling," while Elle fashion director Nina Garcia called them "more sober and less saturated."

"Colors have been influenced by the increased use of natural fabrics -- raffia, wood, crochet, wicker, linens, and burlap," explained Garcia.

Combined with solids or worked into plaid, houndstooth, Art Deco-inspired graphics and other patterns and prints, the earthy neutrals perfectly showcase pieces cut and tailored to make a statement that speaks volumes with little bold color in tie-neck blouses, high-neck jackets, long cardigans, fitted vests, super-fitted skirt suits, smart walking shorts, architectural overcoats and all sorts of pants and skirts.

More focus on natural and organic ways of living influenced fabric selection as well as color. While people tend to associate organic color with bland taupe, and organic fabric with scratchy wool, fall's new crop of duds are anything but.

Soft cashmere, cotton, flax and other fabrics lend themselves well to softly constructed pieces, from pants and sweaters to capelets and coats.

A tweed suit by David Rodriguez ($1,380) accented with sparkly butterfly pin ($255) at Linda Bucci, 826 S. Aiken Ave., Shadyside Village. Click photo for larger image.

"Consumers don't see natural and organic as a color; they see it as beige," said Thom Filicia of "Queer Eye" on NBC's Bravo. "But, in fact, there are many colors. Utilizing an earthy palette with beautiful textures and inviting colors such as coffee, indigo, moss, stone, wheat and maize is the new face of natural."

Colors still pop

Yet there remains, as ever, a color component to the season. Red's statement is a ferocious whisper, especially in women's evening wear. But there is a purple reign, with rich shades adding dramatic pops to looks for both women and men. Berry shades and jewel tones identified by the Pantone Color Institute as vetiver, mineral red, red mahogany and apple cinnamon lend an organic feel to apparel when combined with blacks, grays and navies.

The artistic arc toward a darker, more serious palette is more than the perennial cold-weather fade to the color of night -- although there's black to spare. Many designers anchored their collections in black, gray and navy not just because they complement any color, but because they perceived these neutrals as the new colors.

Menswear's fit is close

For men, "jacket required" might best describe the dominant look. Suits continue to be cut close to the body, with the double-breasted look key. Blazers and sport coats are more constructed and edgier, worn with everything from indigo jeans to wool trousers.

Neckties are overwhelmingly patterned, with even the solid-colored styles textured to give the illusion of more than one color.

	INC International Concepts corduroy blazer ($169), zip-front jacket ($69), striped shirt ($49) and indigo denim jeans ($69) with bicycle-toe loafer by Alfani ($89.99); at Macy's. Click photo for larger image.

A pocket square is a must for dressing up or down, with distinctive sartorial flair demonstrated by the silk Pucci print styles at Larrimor's.

"There's no question that a jacket is an important part of a sophisticated wardrobe," said Carl Slesinger at Larrimor's. "It's not necessarily the way we think of jackets being worn in the past. It's not unusual to find a man wearing a very elegant sartorial suit with an open shirt for clubbing or recreation. And he could have worn that same outfit to work with a tie.

"It's a very strong direction. Stripes are strong. And dark works: dark brown, black, navy and charcoal."

Sweater dressing is more interesting, with the V-neck strongest. Whether a vest or long-sleeved, the sweater is tucked into pants as part of a layered look between a shirt and jacket.

Layer dressing is au courant, with dark and light contrasting patterns fusing in innovative ensembles that are mature and serious yet young and fresh.

Polished layers of femininity

Womenswear is characterized by the same neat layering. Her ensembles are decidedly feminine with an air of sophistication, romantic and refined for the woman who functions in many arenas yet seeks to retain an everyday sensibility.

A cozy warmth is always sought in cooler weather, and layering is a major trend for both men and women. But of these are not sloppy, haphazard layers. They are meticulous, intentional, architectural, pulled-together and polished.

And, for women, they're pulled together with a belt, whether it's cinching a sweater or a jacket or a coat. The result is a polished, refined look that is instantly chic.

This is a season in which sleek sophistication rules, where everyday practicality meets couture sensibility, and the result is a plethora of looks for women of all shapes and sizes.

"Everything is very sort of tactile, especially in things like sweaters and jackets," said Alex Exarchos, head designer of casual and relaxed clothing at Avenue. "Everything feels good. It's a very primeval response."

Contrast and textures

Contrasting textures and colors collide in many looks, creating a sort of Parisian elegance. It's seen in outfits such as a little tweed jacket and a wide belt over a turtleneck, second-skin trousers, knee-high boots and a jaunty cap.

Or a gray flannel skirt suit under a sweater layered under a houndstooth capelet. Add a fistful of pearl necklaces, long purple leather gloves and black platform pumps to complete the look.

Or a tartan mini with colored tights and ankle boots, topped by a cardigan layered over a longer blouse layered over an even longer top.

Leopard is the key animal print of the season; herringbone shows up in smart work-to-evening pieces; and black-and white-ensembles are dynamic and daring in any combination.

While jeans get cigarette skinny, slacks are wider and roomier, from high-waisted, wide-legged pants in herringbone and other menswear-inspired patterns to jumpers and gauchos that update '70s styles with a hip new attitude.

Strong accessories

Accessories go beyond mere accents, adding exclamation points to fashion statements. The hottest are leather-trimmed sweater handbags, big structured leather or pleather doctor bags, colorful long gloves, multiple necklaces, a single bold and chunky bangle bracelet.

With a wink and a nod to belle epoque and Russian aristocrats, brocade, metallic threading and velvet add luxury to capes, suitings, blazers, blouses and even footwear.

Dressy flats, platform pumps and Mary Janes with high heels make inroads into footwear, while boots are ankle-length, knee-length, flat-soled, cuffed.

And evenings and special occasions are the domain of little, but dramatic, black dresses, entrance-making red gowns and glamorous frocks in a plethora of purples.

"The overall season is extremely feminine," said Catherine Ferris at Catherina in Oakmont, where fetching cocktail dresses by Vera Wang Lavender Label and Badgley Mischka hang alongside colorful gowns by Marietta Contadino.

"It's very luxurious and the fabrics are just rich. Accessories are strong and really bold, too: chain necklaces, cuff bracelets, metallic shoes. And yellow gold is really back strong."